S2200Y0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Unplug machine, verified the hot water line to the washer was clear. Used screwdriver to remove top panel from washer. Removed faulty (rusted) temperature switch from seating. Then removed each of the wires from the old switch with needlenose pliers and placed them on the proper area of the new switch. Placed the switch back on the panel and screwed the cover back on. Then plugged the unit back in an tested the hot, cold and warm settings. Easy fix.

We pulled off the bottom cover to access the pump. The washer was on its back and that made it easier to reach. There was two hose clamps to pull off along with the two electrical parts. Very easy to replace.

1.Pulled the agitator out. Unscrewed the top nut, which was a little tricky to break loose since it had been in place for over 10 years. Pulled out the entire washing cylinder to unscrew and replace the hub. Not bad but you need to take out the inner tub and that requires doing a little extra unscrewing and prying.

replaced clutch assembly. unplug power; turn off water, disconnect hoses from faucet; remove drain hose from drain; shop vac water from basin through drain hose. bungee hoses and cords, relocate to garage, place blocks, lay unit on blocks on back, remove front cover, mark electrical connections, disconnect- move aside, support motor, i used a ratchet strap behind motor around the tub supports, removed nuts from motor mount bolts, release strap, tilt and remove motor, place on plywood, use opposing small pry bars to remove clutch assembly; remove rust from motor shaft, install new clutch, re-install motor, install belt, tighten ratchet strap, to tighen belt, re install mount bolt nuts, reconnect electrical connections, remove strap, clean gunk from washer case floor, double check connections, mount bolts, belt tightness, re-install front cover, re-position washer, reconnect hoses, and power cord, turn on water, open fron cover, check for leaks; run rinse spin cycle to test - confirm no leaks, ops check complete, good to go. total time, including removing repositioon and removing water, about an hour, clutch replacement time about 15 min's.

Turned off the water and disconnected the water lines. Took of the control panal, only 4 screws and got access to the dual inlet water valve. Device removes with 2 screws and power connectors slide off. Reverse removal and your in business. So easy to do, part was an exact fit. Don't buy a new washer, fix your old one!

Remove agitator. Remove coupling. Reinstall new coupling. Reinstall agitator. My only problem was the 7 day delay in getting the part. I expected 2-day delivery.

Viewed video on installation of new belt. A little awkward to get to the rear bolts, but used a wrench with success. Now washer spins correctly. Thank you.

I removed the agitator by simply pulling up. I then removed one bolt to get the agitator coupler off. I installed the new coupler, replaced the bolt and slid the agitator back down.

After doing some troubleshooting, I found that the Air Bell was stripped inside.

First I removed the agitator by firmly pulling it straight up. Then I removed the bolt holding the air bell (agitator coupling) with a ratchet. Then came the hard part. The air bell (agitator coupling) was stuck on the shaft and would not come off. I used rope to lasso under the coupling and tied it to a 2x4 for leverage and eventually wrestled it off by using an upward jolting motion time and time again. Spraying WD-40 in the coupling seemed to help loosen it up.

Prior to installation, I cleaned the grooves of the shaft by scraping them out with a flat tip screw driver. Installed the new coupling by tapping it down with a hammer until it was seated firmly and locked it down with the new bolt. Aligned the agitator and slid it down until it latched. Done!

Unplug the washing machine. There are electrical components that can injure or kill you. Using a screw driver inserted just below the lid of the washer in the front, there are two (2) spring clips that you push on to release. Then the front of the washer tilts down and you remove it and set aside.
On the bottom right you will see the flexible, convoluted rubber hose connecting from the pump to the washer tub. Two (2) clamps hold the hose on. Remove the two clamps, install the new hose and re-install the clamps. Re-install the front panel and push into place, allowing clips to lock into the front panel.

It tooke some time to figure out where the water was leaking. It was from a small hole at the lateral side of the upper third of the drain inlet tube. Removing the hose was easy. Attaching it to the tub with a hose clamp was easy, but attaching the lower end to the pump motor was quite difficult because the spring clamp that had come with the washer was difficult to manipulate. I had to replace it with a band hose clamp.

By the way, the hole in the hose had been caused by rubbing the hose against the drain pipe from the motor to the sink.

I ordered the part on Wednesday didn't think we would be washing any clothes until atleast Monday. The pump came on Friday! Installed it 15-25 minutes(that's taking out the old one too) . As someone stated before the only (little) problem was the spring clamps. Screw the pump in first and then put the Clamps on.

With screwdriver, I removed screws holding old hose in place. Attached new hose and screwed into place.

First I took the bottom of the washer off so that I could get to the pump then I took a socket set to take the pump off. Then I put the new pump on and put the bottom of the washer back together.

Popped off the front of the washer, removed old pump by disconnecting 2 hoses, 2 screws and power. Pump new pump in, reconnected everything. Done. Quite possibly the easiest repair ever!