Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Fan/Light switch worked for fan but not for light
The job was easier than I thought it would be. Turned off power at breaker first! Used phillips screwdriver to remove 2 fairly tight screws located on the vent side of the switch mounting plate. Flipped over plate and wrote down the 4 spade tip wire colors and location on switch. Removed the wires from the switch and removed the switch by prying off the locking washer with a sharpened/filed thin putty knife to get under it and then a flat blade screwdriver to finish removing it. Put the new switch in, hooked up the spade tip wires, mounted the plate back on and turned on the power. Worked great and I even impressed my Wife!
Burner on 'high' only, no other settings other than 'off'.
SHUT OFF BREAKER! Remove exhaust grill and switch knob. Remove cooktop switch panel by removing two screws and sliding panel toward exhaust grill. Remove switch retainer nut with deep socket. Transfer wires one by one to new switch. Install new switch tightening retainer nut. Reinstall switch panel with two screws, push knob onto shaft. Turn on breaker.
I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.
Removed top plate, disconnected old switch... Had to go to hardware store to get different push washers - the ones supplied with the part were too small. connected switch... tested connections and replaced top plate.
First checked to see if there was power to the heating element. There was , so I knew the element was bad. I ordered a new heating element and it came in 3 days! I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Reversed the procedure with new element. Turned on oven and my wife cooked a delicious meatloaf.
removed blower housing secured to floor with two screws then removed flexible vent pipe from blower housing then removed blower removed blower wheel and motor put new motor and wheel on put back on stove thats it..
Burners were not regulating and they were just going on high
I am not really handy. When the repair man came and gave me a price of $220 to repair two infinite switches, I looked up the cost of the switch and saw that it was easy to do...and it was! I saved $140 for doing it myself (no help from my husband).
First I turned off the power, unscrewed two screws and took the knob panel off. Wrote down the colored wires and then pulled them off the infinite switch (some needed pliers) and then i just put the wires back on the new switch...done...it works!
As described elsewhere. If the two retaining screws are rusty, order new ones with the element. They are expensive, so take them out and check before placing the element order. Save time and shipping costs.
A local repair shop informed the individual that the burner unit could not be repaired and she would have to replace the cooktop..
After examining the burner unit I noticed that one of the male contact spades was burned and look deformed. After removing the spade I discovered that it had been originally manufactured incorrectly. I went on line to try and find the part. I found it at this site . I ordered 2 of the spades and replaced the deformed spade and another one that looked like it had gotten a little hot. She tried the unit and it worked perfectly. She had not used that burner unit for a very lengthy time. The investigation of the problem took a little time, but the repair went very fast. Moral is :" If a spade doesn't look right, it probably isn't", but either the individual spade or plug can be replaced. This site is now my "GO TO" place for parts.
