RT14HDXDW05 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Had no problem at all it took about 5 minutes to get the tray off and about 5 minutes to put new tray on.New part fit perfect. Thanks Robert Lovern

After I did the prep work of removing the items inside the door the project took less than 15 minutes to get the repair job done. 1. Remove the door by taking off the top hinge cover on top of the door, remove the three screws with a socket wrench, remove the plastic gasket under the hinge, left door up and off the lower hinge pin 2. Place the new bracket on the freezer door hinge pin, flange side down 3. I had to place an extra spacer washer, which I had on hand, on top of the hinge bracket 4. Replace the door on the bottom hinge pin 5. My husband held the door in place as I reattached the top of the door with the plastic spacer and 3 screws I had removed 6. Replaced the plastic gasket and hinge cap on the top 7. With the door reattached, I removed the existing screw under the door directly below the new hinge bracket, lined up the hinge bracket to the screw hole and attached it in place. Much to my surprise and pleasure, the door swings perfectly, stopping where it should with the door shelves loaded! Thank you PartSelect for having a part that would work for my 16 year old refrigerator even though I had to add a washer shim to make the new part as thick as the original.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Took socket out and replace it with new one. Very easy. W saved alot of money doing it ourself.

taped the door shut ,measured a block of wood and stuck it under the door for support.....unbolted bottom hinge,slipped on hinge bracket and reassembled.no muss no fuss.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

Very easy to replace. Disconnect water line. remove 2 screws pull out filler tube. replace with new one.

I'm not sure you really want to know. We had to use one of the two refrigerator shelves we purchased, which was too big to fit in the freezer. It had to be completely modified in order to accomplish this. We therefore cut the shelf in half lengthwise. To do this, it was necessary to determine the tools needed, then to gather them and finally use them. It took a good amount of foresight and perseverance, but the job was completed, works beautifully and is very helpful. We wondered why a freezer shelf was not available or if it was, why it was not clearly identified in the parts list.

I checked the net. Said the temp control was the problem. Ordered and installed the temp control. Bottom still would not cool. Total waste of time and money. After checking realized fan in freezer was not working. Took it apart and exposed the fan. Pushed it and it started working. Wd 40ed it. Put it back together. Fan is working and the bottom is cooling. Check the fan first before you buy anything.

I oringinally thought it was one of the thermostats b/c the freezer started to freeze again after unplugging it. But then the next day it stopped all together and I could hear a clicking noise in the back and the compressor never turned on. It would click at around 2 minutes then again about 17 seconds later. I took photos of the original wires in the connector to match up later. The new parts were not identical to the old. The red wire on the bottom fit fine but the other two wires would not go in the same terminal or numbered positions (1&4). For 2 reasons, 1, the blue female was too small for the male and 2) there was a male missing at position 4. After looking at the guts of the old connector I decided to get new females (2 trips b/c I didn't buy a big enough wire opening - needed 2 wires) and cut, splice & crimp them. I then put the two females on the top two males & plugged it in. No sparks or explosions... but silence. I waited a few minutes and then the fan kicked on and then the compressor started running. That was Sunday, it's now Thursday and things are working well.

Removed screws from the back of the part in the fridge. Pulled old part out. Measured the old part. Cut new part to fit. Replaced new part and tightened the screws. Worked perfectly.