RS22AQXGW01 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

Unplugged the fridge and removed the cover from the Icemaker control assembly. Then remove the three phillips head screws, remove the Icemaker control. put the new control in place and use the three screws removed in previous step, replace the cover and plug the fridge back in. in a few hours you will have some ice.

Replaced the icemaker control assembly and ice mold. Icemaker is working perfectly now. We replaced the ice mold (tray) because my husband read on the internet that the ice mold loses its nonstick coating and the ice sticks to the mold, and eventually burns out the control assembly.

The reason it took me longer than what should have been a 15 minute repair is due to the fact that I could not figure out how the shaft came apart. I found an instructional video on Parts Select website that showed me that the shaft was held together by a reverse treaded, round nylon nut on the very front of the shaft. Just use a pair of pliers to grasp the nut and rotate it clockwise, after that you just need to lay the parts out in order as they come off the shaft so you can put it back together again.

This was a very easy repair and only took about 20 minutes. Unfortunately, after reordering, and installing the second motor, the intermittent noise is still there. Other than the occasional buzzing noise, that sounds like it is coming from the evaporator fan area, the refrigerator runs fine.

Simply follow the video instructions. Involves the removal of nine screws. to remove the old plastic sleeve cut the tube near the old thermostat and it slides of easily. Apply dish or hand washing soup to the new tube when putting the plastic sleeve onto the new probe. The hardest part is getting the end of the probe coiled to the right shape. Hey,` if I can do it with a broken collar bone, anybody should be able to do it.

Read the instructions, watched the video and followed the very clear instructions and lay out.

Repaired it using the video that you sent through email. Thank goodness for the video or would still be trying to fix it!

Removed the door (3 bolts on top). Removed the old plastic door closing cam on the bottom. Installed the new one. It was too tall (probably my fault), so I trimmed it with garden shears (it was a tubular piece of plastic). If you do this, be very careful, as the shears cut through the plastic MUCH easier than I thought. Popped the new one on, re-secured the door, and it works great now. Thank you partselect!

When I ordered the new auger drum from this website, I noticed a video that explained how to install the item. When I received the new drum, I went to the website and found the video. All I did was to watch the video and do what the repairman did. I did get a little confused when I noticed that the auger in the video was metal, and mine was plastic. However, upon removing the pieces as shown in the video, it became clear that the new auger drum would fit the same way the broken one had fit. After that, it was a snap to put the pieces back together.

the repair from the video was exact to a tee. Very helpful 100%.

The icemaker is in a side by side refrigerator/freezer with an auger driven ice bin dispenser, so space was limited. I first removed the ice bin but I couldn't see the three nuts holding the icemaker in place. I removed the ice bin support bracket (under the icemaker) using a Phillips head screw driver. Now the bottom nut holding the icemaker in place was easily visible and I was able to determine the size of nut driver I needed to completely remove it. Then I felt for the location of the top two nuts, slipped the nut driver on and loosened them. I was able to lift the icemaker off the top two nuts without completely removing them. Using a flat head screw driver, I pushed down the white tab holding the wiring harness connection to the icemaker and removed the harness, freeing the ice maker for complete removal. I did not need to replace the wiring harness, so I simply reversed the whole process to install the new icemaker. I am a 61 year old female with rheumatoid & degenerative arthritis and found this installation really easy, with the one exception of snapping the wiring harness connection into the new icemaker - I didn't have the thumb strength. I had to wait for a relative to come and snap the wiring harness connector into place for me. I also had to use some snips to cut out the plastic tab (scored) for the water feed to the icemaker but was able to complete the entire installation within 30 minutes.

Pulled refrigerator away fom wall. Removed cardboard cover at back bottom to reveal fan motor.The space available to remove the motor from the bracket is very limited, so smaller hands will be a plus! Tried to get a nut wrench on motor but there was hardly enough room. Finally was able to use a socket set to remove bolts. I would suggest you spray a solvent on the motor mount bolts and seat them in the new motor first. It was near to impossible to get them started in the mount, without seating them first. The electrical clip that connects to the motor fit on the new motor, so I did not have to splice any wiring. This made the job a little easier. Finally, replaced cardboard cover and moved refrigerator back against the wall. .

Disconnect power. Remove back panel on the refrigerator. Relay and overload is a modular unit attached to the compressor. Disconnect module from compressor, install new unit. While you're in there clean the condenser coils with a vacuum and clean the fan and condensate pan. Reassemble, and you're chillin. Total time approx. 15 min.

Unplug the unit cord, remove 3 screws on the icemaker. Unhook the wiring harness from the refrigerator, remove the unit and reverse the order to install the new unit. Reinstall the on off bail, and the icemaker tray. Make sure that the unit is level after the new installation so that water does not spill out of the icemaker.

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