Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
cracked, broke and fell out
Simple read about three of the other peoples repairs,did the same and (PIECE OF CAKE) Only problem ordered the cam kit with shipping over # 18.oo and only needed two pieces to do the job. Should have ordered just the two cams and saved a lot of dough. But done and over with a happy camper (WIFE)
Removed the cover plate on top. Used a wrench and the nut driver to remove the three screws & the screw holding the grounding wire. Pulled apart the plastic coupling for the wiring to light the freezer. Then with the aid of a friend - lifted the door (with food removed from door shelves) off the hinge. This freezer had a water line which we didin't know how to disconnect so we were careful to move the door slightly away from the broken hinge, set it on a stool with one person holding the door steady while the other person installed the new hinge piece. Definitely takes two people (as suggested in the directions) to both lift and guide the door into place. Once it was in place - I reinserted the screws up top and tightened them. Then had to untighten them to get the door to line up as it should vertically - so I would suggest just lighten tighen the upper screws until the door is aligned and swinging smoothly. Then reattached ground wire and plastic coupling. Works great.
Removed all of the food from the door by lifting the shelves out. Unbolted the top door hinge, and lifted the door off. Replaced the cam and placed the door back on, re-bolted the top hinge and placed all of the food and shelving back into the door. The door closes and seals when it is shut.
It was straight forward enough--removed six screws from the metal cooling coil shield at the back of the freezer compartment and removed the shield. That left the motor and its mounting exposed atop the coil. Removed the electrical leads and popped out the motor and fan. Then I replaced the leads on the new motor, reset it in the mounting and pushed the fan propeller from the old motor on the spindle of the new. Twenty minutes tops.
I pulled the wiring harness off the bad motor, removed the fan blades (it was just a press fit and can be pulled off by hand), took out the three screws. The fan on the replacement motor had to be installed out of the fridge. I wiggled the new motor into place and installed the three screws. I cut the wiring harness off the fridge side and cut back the insulation. Using wire nuts I reconnected the wiring. I plugged the fridge back in and it worked like a champ. The repair went fairly easy. The motor was a bit difficult to get into tight space with my big hands. The wiring harness on the fridge side had to be cut and wire nuts used to reconnect the wiring to the new motor but it was pretty straight forward. Over all the repair was easy except for being in a tight spot. I recommend trying to fix it yourself, you may supprise yourself and save some serious bucks on labor cost to boot.
One front roller was flat on one side. Decided to replace all rollers at same time. Placed shims under unit and removed mounting screws for one front and one rear roller. With new rollers in place, I was able to level the refrigerator side to side, but unable to do so, front to back. Left the new front roller in place and reinstalled the old rear roller. Have decided to replace refrigeratorin the near future. This is one of my few repair failures!
I read a previous entry that stated the stud needed to be twisted out, which was very useful. I was bit worried at first when I removed the broken one and a bit of the insulation came out and it seemed mangled inside, but twisting the new one in worked. It is in there firm and strong, good as original.
Freezer would stop operation either during defrost cycle or normal operation and would intermittently start after the fridge thawed out.
I took apart the thermostatic switch and cleaned the contacts (noticed carbon or corrosion dust beneath the switch). I installed the old switch back in the fridge until new switch arrived. This seemed to solve the problem. I ordered a new thermostatic switch and a new defrost timer since these two items if defective, cause similar symptoms to my problem. I replaced both items and the refrigerator has worked normally since. Replacing both parts was straight forward process. Hope this helps.
Remove one 5/16 screw from top hinge cover plate. Trace outline of hinge on top of refrigerator with sharpie, so you will know where to put hinge back. Remove 3 5/16 screws from hinge. Lift door up out of bottom hinge, place on table to be able to work on. Remove one 5/16 screw and upper cam piece from bottom of door and replace with new upper cam piece. Remove one 5/16 screw and lower cam piece from bottom hinge on refrigerator. Replace with new lower cam piece and one screw Set door back in place and reattach top hinge with 3 screws adjust refrigerator door as needed for a nice even gap between freezer and refrigerator doors. Tighten screws down and put hinge cover back on with one screw.
Refrigerator coils froze up and 5 weeks later it got stuck in defrost.
The parts were reasonably priced, shipped promptly and received in a couple of days. I reviewed a YouTube video before starting that was beneficial. Huge savings over retail repair service. A+ replacement parts house and I would highly recommend.
