RS20AKXBW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

replaced old one installed new one

I knew the repair wasn't difficult. It was a matter of finding the replacement part. Luckily, I found the part via the internet on your site. Lucky for me, there was an installation video!! These videos are worth 1000 bucks!! Never have encountered a site with installation videos before. It gave me complete insight as to how the job was sequenced. I'm a very visual person, so videos are the perfect helper for me. With fewer and fewer affordable local service companies around to fix problems like mine, your site gave me the complete confidence to easily switch out the condensor fan. I completed the repair for about $63.00. Your site ROCKS! Keep up the repair videos because they are awesome and extremely helpful. I felt like your pricing was competitive for this item. Thanks again!!

Was very simple once I found out where the defrost timer was located. I had a friend walking me through trying to find the location on the phone. Not all models have them in the same place. Once the part was located all I had to do was remove the cover, unplug the old one and plug the new one in just the way the old one came off. The black wire was easy to locate on the old and just matched it up. Put the cover back on and plugged it in. It was no time till I started feeling it cool. Checked both top and bottom with thermomater and it was where it should be within 12 hours. I am happy and using it again. Was almost ready to throw it out. Did not know it was so cheap to fix one. Nothing anyone can't handle. If this woman can do it anyone can.

I found the condenser fan was not working so I bought a new condenser fan kit and installed it. Fixed!

This is a simple repair. the only reason it took as look as it did was because you need to empty the products from the door(s). Of course this is a good opportunity to thoroughly clean the fridge. The problem was caused by wear on the plastic spacer for the bottom hinge. Remove the plastic covers that conceal the top hinge located on top of the refrigerator. Remove the three bolts that attach the hinge to the housing. The door can then be lifted off the bottom hinge. Remove and replace the bottom spacer. Then remove and replace the receiver in the door by prying it out with a screwdriver or pliers and popping in the new one. I put a dab of lithium grease on the hinges before I reassembled them to reduce the wear and extend the life a little. Reverse the procedure to reassemble.

pull unit away from the wall, and unplug it. remove the grill, and cardboard guard on the lower back of the unit. remove Three screws for the motor bracket. Remove the bracket legs from the old motor and assemble them to the new motor. take the fan blade off the old motor, place it on the new. Cut the wires at the old motor, strip the insulation back, use supplied wire nuts to connect the new motor. Reverse order to reassemble. Plug in unit to test function.

I have a KitchenAid side-by-side refrigerator and the right door clunked everytime it opened. We think it was damaged when contractors had to move the fridge and probably were too rough with it. I went on line and found that I could actually repair it myself (thanks to this web site, a great web site, by the way). I researched and found out through others that I needed a new door closing CAM kit. I only needed to fix 1 door, but bought the whole kit anyway (PS358690, Door Closing Cam Kit)to have spares. The kit showed up, I followed the great instructions via the video to remove the door, replaced the upper CAM on the door first and then ran into a snafu with the lower cam. The hinge on my model fridge does not have a replaceable CAM, it is physically attached to the door hinge. The instructions that came with the kit showed a hinge that was not my hinge - sigh. I had to put back all the old clunky parts, put the door back on and go order a new hinge (hopefully). Luckily there was a hinge available for my model with the CAM installed. I purchased it (PS331817, Door Hinge with Cam) and it came quickly like the other parts. I took the door off again (I knew how to do it this time), I replaced the hinge with ease, put the door back on and it is no CLUNK-FREE - Smooth like when we bought it. Thanks to everyone who wrote in about their clunking issues and thanks to PartSelect for the parts and the help.

Followed the video, very helpful! Basically a walk in the park.

Unplugged Refer...Cleared top shelf...removed screws/covers to expose thermostate and capilary tube...removed old thermostate takeing care to notice how Capilary tube was routed and electrical connection were made (wire color coding)...removed sheath on old capilary tube and installed on new, always making sure to not "kink" tubing...installed new part just as the old one was...plugged refer back in and enjoyed trouble free operation.

My fridge is a little different from the video model. The Controls in the fridge are located on an "arm" which swings down when the two screws are removed from the sides. It was not necessary to remove a front plate or knobs. However, I found when I got in to it that the old timer was not held by screws, but by plstic posts which had these "speed nuts" on them. This is a little metal plate which fits over the plastic post and bends to lock it in place. When you try to remove it, it acts like a barb, holding the little sucker on. I ended up bending the ends of those little suckers up tight against the post and twisting and pulling with needle-nose pliers. I broke one post like others before me commented, but one stayed intact. The only break at the top, so there ie still post left to hold the new timer. Once it was off, I was able to replace easily. The directions for choosing the right prong were a little confusing, but follow your gut and go with the wire colors. My schematic found in the bottom of the fridge did not look like any of the drawings, but I could match the wire colors. I also asked "Just Ask" for help, to make sure. My gut instinct was right. My fridge is now working again beautifully. If a housewife with no appliance repair knowledge can do it, so can you. I fixed my dryer with PartSelect too!I will never call another repair man until I have checked this site to see if I can do it myself. Bet I have saved $600 so far at least!

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Watched video of repair. Took all drawers and drawer holders out of freezer to acesss back panel. Removed 6 screws from back panel,slid up and out. Cut 2 wires to remove old bi-mtl defroster. splice the wires and attached new bi-metal def.

I wasnt about to call Mr Appliance of Bayport NY the last time I called him I got a bill for $72.00 and he told me I needed a new frig. So I paid him then the next day I went to parts select and fixed it myself for about $50.00 But this time it was my Moms frig and the frig side (fresh food side) wasnt getting cold So again I went to parts select and put in a bimetel thermostat and it works perfect now. Im sure I saved a lot of $ and thanks to parts select, They helped me diagnose the problem and make the repair step by step! EASY! Thanks parts select...Garry from long island NY

Whirlpool refridgerator, parts were not exactly the same,but did fit. The electrical hook plug was perfect. Old ice maker had wear marks in channels. Installed new ice maker. Pump still didn't operate after letting ice box get down to normal temp. Replaced pump. Had to use hose permanentely attached to new pump. Removed old hose and clamped new hose at top and outside refrigerator with existing clamp. Let the freezer get back down to normal temp. Ice maker operated perfectly.

This repair was super easy. there are only 5 screws to remove to get at the defective switch. 3 in the housing where the light bulbs are and 2 in the front trim piece where the cooling adjustment dials are. I never did unplug the fridge ,but probably should have although nothing bad happened. I removed all 5 screws using a 1/4" socket ( a nutdriver would work well also). there is also a small dia rod that comes down from the coolness adj. wheel that when you re-assemble goes though the middle of the wheel. The switch has only 2 wires that clip on with the push on flat type connectors. Very simple. I removed the wires and then the switch can be removed( it is only held in by 2 squeezable side clips). I put the new switch in and connected the wires , checked to see that the lights went on and off. which they did. then just put the screws back in.....done. also I would like to say that when I ordered my switch it came super fast. I ordered it online at 11:00am on a tuesday and it was on my doorstep in wisconsin by 10:00 am the next day...Thanks