RLS363U Range - Instructions

I used a screwdriver to pry the electrode assy. out of the burner. then disconnected the wire.
Then just connected the new electrode and place the assy, in the burner.

If your stove work's but your oven won't get hot it is your ignigter the ignighter in proper working condition sends a signal to the gas valve saying let the gas flow its ok. When the ignighter quits working it won't let the gas flow and your oven will not get hot. It is an easy fix. Just pull out all of interior parts the racks and the bottom heat shield the ignighter the white stone looking part that is screwed to the burner with two wires and it really don't matter what way the wires go back one of the wires connects in the back so you will have to pull the oven out. Now you have to clean under it and your done.

Disconnected gas & electric connections; lifted unit out of countertop onto padded table upside down. Unscrewed ~16 sheet metal screws for access. Removed bad ignitor by driving off retaining clip. Had to remove burner (3 screws) for access to install retaining clip on new ignitor. Reassembled, reinstalled. Works like new!

Removed oven door and burner guard. Removed screws holding ignitor bracket and small panel beneath oven door. Disconnected ignitor wires behind panel and pulled out ignitor. Removed old ignitor from bracket and inserted new unit. Fed wires back down thru tubing and screwed in bracket. Connected wires and replaced panel. (Note: old ignitor glowed but would not pass enough current to operate gas valve)

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

unplug the oven and pull it away from the wall. looking at the oven from the back, the spark module is at the bottom on the lower left. there is a two piece sheetmetal cover over the area of the spark module. use a phillips head screwdriver to remove five screws and the covers come off. the spark module is the blue cube with four push on wire connectors. all you have to do is hold the new one next to the old one and swap one wire at a time. both were clearly marked with identical numbers and letters. really nothing to it. it took me longer to clean the back of the oven than to replace the module. the old module was eaton part number Y-54052-3. the new one is eaton part number Y-054052-34.

I removed the 2 screws that held the housing on at the back of the stove. Then I removed the 2 screws that held the module to the back of the stove. Since I am not an experienced electrical person (I am a female nurse in the operating room), I unplugged 1 wire at a time from the old module and plugged it into the new module. I repeated this step with each wire to make sure I didn't put the wrong wire on a wrong spot until I had all the wires to the new module. Then reattached the screws, plugged in the oven and presto, it works just fine! Was amazed at how easy it was. A 50 dollar part instead of a new 1500 dollar stove. How easy is that?

Had to remove the 4 range knobs, and the oven knob and then the facie. Two screws under the end caps and two on each side from the back on each end. Design defect: one of these screws which attaches through the frame to the facie also attaches the support which holds up the range top. Take that one off last. Remove the two wires that attach to the oven light switch. After detaching the power supply to the defective ignition unit, it just pulls right off. Push the new switch on over the knob shaft and reassemble.

Removed the defective igniter, removing one screw and disconnected wire, replaced new ignighter in reverse fashion. And WELLA! The old oven works again!!

Just set in the new grate and start cooking

I had an appliance repair rep do the replacement. He made it look relatively easy.
The repair man first turned off the breaker to the range and confirmed there was no power to the range.
After lifting off the range top cover exposing the burner igniters, he unhooked and removed the igniters. He opened the lower oven door exposing the screws which hold the front knob plate in position. He took those out. After loosening the knob plate he was able to unscrew and raise the inside cover which exposes the wires and the spark module.
My spark module was located in the front left corner area tucked a little under the knob plate. That is another reason why he had to loosen the plate. The replacement part was a universal part so he had to do a little work on the wire connectors but it only took a couple of minutes. Once he configured the wire ends, he was able to plug in the new spark module and put the top back together again.
The repair man knew exactly what to do and made it look relatively easy. I did not want to tackle this problem because I did not know exactly where the spark module was since some models have them in the back of the oven and the oven has to come out from the wall. Also, the wire connections had to be worked with a little and he knew exactly how to do that.
The repair man took about 45 minutes from beginning to end with most of that time spent getting to the part and putting it back together. The replacement itself took only about 10 minutes.

Removed the burner plates. Lifted up the range top. Removed the knobs. Unbolted the 2 rounded nuts at top of face plate. Removed the 4 screws that hold the face plate in place from behind. Un plugged the old switch and plugged in the new one and bam! The burner worked. Thanks, Super fast shipping! The part was here in less than 36 hours. John, N.J.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

popped out the old one with a screwdriver discconnected two wires, reconnected the wires to the new rocker sitch and popped in the new one..

1. ordered two new switches
2. installed switches
3. all ignitors work

Really appreciated the pictures of the parts--made selection very easy.