RGB745WEH7WW Hotpoint Range - Instructions

Unplug the power cord. I turned off the gas just in case. I removed the oven door by pulling straight up on the hinges. Remove the storage drawer below the oven. The screws for the lower burner are located in the center at he back of the oven. Unplug the electrical connections for the igniter. Cut the connector wires to the old plugs so that you can connect the new igniter using the cereamic wire nuts provided. Be sure to leave enough to connect the new wires. Screw the new igniter to the burner. Reverse the steps and put the burner back in place and push the wires back through the hole in the back of the cabinet.

While I was at work, my wife followed the instructions provided to repair our oven. She did not have a 1/4 ratchet, and the adapter made the ratchet to big to fit under the igniter to loosen the screws. She made a makeshift tool by placing the socket on an allen (hex) key. She said the screw had originally been installed crooked so she was not able to loosen it and use her fingers, but rather had to use tools until it unscrewed completely. Other than that she said everything worked great. She doesn’t think it matters which wire is spliced onto which ‘plug’. It would have been nice if GE would have put the screws on top of the igniter.

My nephew who is a plumber actually repaired the stove by removing the old heating element and unscrewing the screws and detaching the electrical connections. He explained that he attached the new element with the screws and reconnected the wires using the wire nuts that was included with the new part. He did a fine job and my mom which is his grandmother is baking her heart out. Thanks to my nephew Adrian McCoy. He saved the day and used "Partselect" to accomplish this goal. Thank you from myself and mom.

Unscrewed bottom screws, replaced trim. No trouble.

Removed screws to access bottom "bake" burner. Removed screws which attached igniter to burner. Cut two wires to igniter and using the two supplied ceramic wire connectors, re-connected the igniter and reinstalled igniter with screws. Replaced bottom access panel in oven. Plugged in power. job over.

Turned off power, removed oven door, removed oven base plate, removed lower drawer, disconnected one igniter wire from the gas valve, (the igniter had been replaced before by a service technician), removed burner with igniter attached, removed old igniter and installed new igniter. Reattached igniter to the old wires, replaced burner assembly,turned on power and turned on oven. Once I had determined igniter glowed turned off oven and reassembled all the remaining parts. Once everything was back in place I turned on the oven again to make sure all worked, it did and we can bake again!

Removed old part by removing the screws at the boottom of the oven door. I wasn't sure if the glass oven door cover would remain in place once the trim piece was removed, fortunately I was ready when it came down. The glass cover is large and heavy so you need to be ready to handle the bulk of this piece once the last screw is removed. Cleaned everything and with the help of my wife, who secured the oven door cover in place, secured the new trim piece by replacing the screws. What a difference, looks like new! PartSelect provided great service in terms of speed and part acciracy.

My stove is 17 years old. I went to home depot and told them the problem, and they told me rather than try to repair the stove, I should just buy a new one for $575. 00. A friend told me about partselect; I ordered the part and installed it myself, and it only cost me $80. I saved almost $500, and my stove is as good as new.

nothing to it.

Slide out oven door. Remove handle screw and handle. Pick up white insulation. Remove screws to the door gasket. Replace new Door Gasket. It had to te streched to fit. I wish that the new door gasket would be 2 in. longer so it would be easier to install.

I removed the old part then installed the new one with the help of the instruction sheet suplyed,making sure the wires were completly coverd with the protective sleeve.

I took the oven almost completely apart. Clean the entire unit. Replaced the igniter. Put everything back together. Even though I would have liked to have a new, fancy range, I saved myself $1,000.00. I'm not much of a handyman, but this repair was pretty easy.

Removed the oven door and bottom drawer. Removed the oven floor. The igniter bracket was angled in such a way that I had to remove a good deal of the metal thermal shielding underneath the burner element in order to access the bolts on the igniter bracket. Removed the igniter bracket and old igniter. Removed the old igniter from the bracket. Attached the new igniter to the igniter bracket. Snipped the wires attached to the old igniter leaving enough old wire intact to splice in the new igniter. Spliced the new igniter onto the old wiring. Attached the igniter and bracket back on the burner element. Replaced the thermal shielding. Tested igniter operation. Replaced oven floor. Replaced bottom drawer and oven door.

i unplugged the ignitor because i noticed it wasnt getting hot..took my multimeter and checked the voltage going to the ignitor..i had sufficient voltage...removed the ignitor and took a ohm test in which i discovered would not ohm out so this confirmed my diqgnosis...apon arrival of new ignitor i had to just install the connector and reinstall,,,poof..back in business...thanks

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.