REC3622BW0 Roper Dryer - Instructions

You can buy the switch AND lever/latch, but partselect had lever by itself which is all I needed. Pay attention to orienation of lever around switch when you take old latch off and attach new. Also, be careful to not drop new lever behind/beneath clothes dryer drum. Took my wife and I a while to fish it out. I have replaced heating element, and other parts. At some point it will be time for a new dryer...

When i finally got sick and tired of hearing it when she used the dryer. I popped the top flipped it up unscrewed the 2 screws holding the front panel of the body on, picked up on it and pulled it off the drum. I then reached back to the rear right corner and stretched the tentioner and pulled the belt off the motor pulley.Then I picked up the belt and the drum and pulled it out of the dryer body. After seeing the drum support roller that is mounted on the base, and back of the left side I decided to go online and find this sight that had the drum support rollers as a set with the keepers and the push nut for the brace as a set for a really fair price. If your unit has a warranty "do not" take anything apart and do not order any pats until you check with your dealer. You do not want to void your warranty. I then pulled off the push nut and then i took the screw that held on the brace in front of the worn out drum roller, then pryed off the keeper and pull off the drum roller, took off the back keeper;inspect the shaft if it is not damaged ,(this one was not),then you wait until the parts arrive, yes your dryer will set in parts for about a week, but believe me in todays economy its worth "not having to buy a new dryer" at least for this small repair. When the parts arrive everything is pretty much in reverse of how you took it apart dont forget your cell phone is also a camera that can be a "memory enhancer" for when you get this far. Also be nice to your wife your going to need a little help putting it back together. Of course if she wants her dryer back she needs to help anyways. patience is a virtue and if you dont take your time and do this right it will be tested the drum and belt need to be fitted right and held up to get both the belt on the pulley and around the tentioner and get the front panel lined up on the front of the drum good luck and pass your knowledge on its getting to be a lost art.

My dryer would not start or turn. I first moved the timer to midway between start and end of a cycle and could hear the timer ticking, likely eliminating the timer as the culprit. I next opened the door, manually pressed the door-closure switch and pressed START to see if the heating coil was heating without the drum turning to see if it might be a motor issue. After no heat, I unplugged the dryer and removed the vent hose by loosening the clamp and then removed the lower back cover using a socket and ratchet. Using a multimeter, I quickly found an open thermal fuse. I tested the remaining components to see if they also required replacement (coil, thermostat, high temp sensor) - all tested good. Took a chance and ordered the fuse alone instead of also purchasing replacement thermostat as many advise - if you have not replaced in a while, probably worth doing now. I have replaced mine within a year or two and chalked up the issue to my kids not clearing the vent, so I went without the new thermostat. Model number was found by opening the lid - parts arrived incredibly fast especially for being around the holidays. Replaced the fuse with ease - there is a notch in one end that holds the non-screw end in place so it's flush. Plugged the dryer back in, selected a cycle and confirmed the dryer started and heated as normal. I then had my son open the dryer door to confirm the drum stopped turning. HERE'S WHERE IT TAKES A TWIST: When the door was open, the heating coil continued to glow red hot (faulty timer??) I moved selector to end of cycle and the glow stopped. (timer's good) I then moved the selector mid-way between cycles with the dryer door open and WITHOUT PRESSING START and the coil again glowed red. Disconnected power, disconnected coil and using multimeter, checked from coil input to case ground (any bare metal) and found one side of the coil to be grounded. I was able to removed the heating coil and locate where the coil was touching the case. I shifted the coil back into place, checked with meter (no ground this time), reinstalled and tested with no problems. Reinstalled the back plate and vent hose. Finally, had conversation with the kiddos about being gentle when moving the dryer and all was well. The thermal fuse portion took 15 minutes from diagnosis to replacement. The overall process (due to the additional grounded heating coil) took 30-60. With any repair like this, I usually recommend visually verifying the heat cycles on and off by carefully running with the door open and holding the switch. This will help you determine if you may have an additional faulty part that made the first one fail. (Most likely, thermostat).

I disconnected the dryer from the electric. I removed the lid to the dryer by first removing the lint door screws and prying the lid off properly. Disconnected the wires to the door switch. Removed the screws from inside the door and carefully removed teh actuator. Seperated the actuator from the switch and replaced the broken actuator. Reinstalled the actuator and switch and screwed the assembly back in place. Reconnected the wires, lowered the dryer lid and screwed the lint door screws back in place. It Worked perfectly.

My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.

Watch the video before I received the part. Made it very simple to replace and which screws to take out.

Once again part select has come through for me. googled dryer won't start and a video on utube came up. typed my model number in on part select website and followed directions. was easy got part in three business days regular shipping. very pleased with this site.

I followed the on-line video. I am extremely happy I made the effort and successfully fixed my dryer on my own. It sure beats a new dryer expense or high repair cost.

just like the guy in the video. It was easy to folow his instructions, and the best thing of all i could stop the video if I had a question and then resume!

First I removed the top back plate and found the electrical schematic, found the fuse and themostat. Went to Whilpool web site found exploded parts list to identify part (fuse)

removed fuse and tested with MM for an open. It was. Shorted the leads to verify that the Dryer operated. Found your site and was easily able to identify the part from the excellent description and pictures. Ordered it, installed it work great thanks

Went on line and determined the problem was the thermal fuse. Removed the rear panel of the dryer, removed the leads from the thermal fuse, hooked them together and started the dryer. That confirmed the problemwas the existing fuse.Ordered the new thermal fuse, installed the fuse, hooked up the wires and it works finel Very simple fix. About a 10 year old dryer.

removed the rear panel to gain access to the internals of the dryer, removed the one screw that retains the fuse, out with the old and in with the new.
delivery of the part was 2 days sooner than expected.
could not have been a simpler process!

tested continuity, determined thermal fuse was open. PartSelect sent a new fuse very quickly, and it was just a matter of reconnecting the wires and putting the back cover on the dryer. Started right up.

Popped out the old lent trap & popped in the new one..and walla perfect repair..

I watched a U Tube video about banging sound from dryer. Once I recognized the problem, lifted the top, removed 2 screws holding the front, removed the drum, and bingo. Saw the worn out drum roller. Ordered the replacement parts from "PartSelect" on line (Great Company). Was in no hurry, so I chose regular mail delivery. 4 days later, got the correct replacement parts, put the dryer back together, and now, the dryer is quieter then when I bought it new, a thousand years ago. I will never again be afraid to tackle an appliance issue. THANK YOU !!!