REC3622BW0 Roper Dryer - Instructions

Longest time needed was to determine what cause was. After that ordering part from PartSelect was very easy and saved me money. Part arrived before time given, part was correct and installed without problems.

Removed 2 screws holding the lint trap on top, popped up the top and lifted back, removed 2 screws on the inside top of front panel, lifted front off and set aside then reached under the drum and pulled tension pully to loosen the belt, and removed the drum. popped the motor clams off and then used 2 adjustable wrenches to grasp the nuts at the front and back to remove blower fan. When you look for the area in back to loosen the blower fan you may notice the nut that you are looking for is actually part of the fan and is plastic looking rather than metal. I did have to take off the back cover to the blower fan to tighten it back up.I had seen instructions that the blower fan would have a 3/8 hole in the back of it to loosen it,but mine did not. I assembled it and it works great with my new motor and rollers. I received my part in 2 days, very happy

Removed the drum then removed the old parts and installed the new ones. Dryer now runs very quite and heats good. You have very fast service my mother ordered the parts on the net one day and I received the parts next day and did the repair that night and dried clothes. Thanks,

Your great service is very hard to find.

After removing front door panel (2 screws) I removed the old latch catch and replace with the new part. 4 minutes later, the door was back together, the dryer was running and the door was staying closed.

I removed the two screws on the top by the lint catcher. Then, per information from this website, I pried up the top. I reached down into the dryer and removed the two screws on the broken door switch and replaced it with the new part. I am a recently widowed, 55 year old and was thrilled to find good advice, information and instructions on your website!! Simple as could be!

First I pulled the dryer away from the wall, after which I disconnected the power and dryer vent. I then removed the eight screws holding on the back of the dryer. Next, I disconnected the two wires to the part and unscrewed the mounting screw. I then removed the bad part, replaced it with the new part, and reversed the above steps.

I opened the front lower cover to get the schematics. Looked for the most probable part that was bad. Then traced wiring from the gas solenoid to find the thermal fuse.
I opened the back. Took the two wires off the thermal fuse and put my Ohm meter from terminal to terminal. As I got no reading, I ordered a new fuse. It took about 5 minutes to replace and button the dryer back up. This is the second time I have had to replace this fuse.

Got my parts very quickly.
Popped out the old door latch with a screw driver and pressed in the new one.
Very simple.
Thanks Parts Select.

An online help site lead me to believe the problem was the gas igniter. After ordering that and installing it I discovered that wasn't the problem. I took a look at the schematic which is in the electrical compartment and found that there is more than one thermal breaker. I found the other one, ordered and installed the part and had it running within 30 minutes. I had to access the back of the unit, remove the back cover with a socket wrench, unscrew the thermal breaker and re-install the new one with no special tools.

I replaced the male end first hoping that a change in the female part would not be needed. Unfortunately no. I used needle nosed pliers to pry the male part out and pushed the new part in. The female part of the door catch was more difficult. I didn't do it in "textbook" form, but got the job done with pliers and a screwdriver. Worth every penny to fix correctly instead of rigging it. Do it!

There was no heat but the dryer would operate properly in all other functions. I checked the ignitor (gas dryer) with a meter and it was okay. I traced the circut back and ended up at the thermal fuse and it was "open" I jumped it out and the dryer started to work. I knew the problem was the thermal fuse but more importantly why did it blow. Further investigation showed excessive lint in the duct. Needed to take the exhaust system apart and clean out the lint. also replaced the flexible dryer (too difficult to clean) and to make sure that I didn't over work the high/low thermostat and would be doing this repair again in the near future I replaced that also. Be careful and do not jump out the fuse and use the dryer as this will cause a fire. I did it to prove the problem only... Dryer works well again and we will probably get another 5 years out of it!

Al
hrguy@comcast.net

The major issue was getting the dryer out and cleaning it all up. That's what took the time but it was worth it to clean out the lint in the ducts, etc.. Putting the thermal fuse was a snap thanks to the great feedback received when I got this web site and read the previous responses.

After identfying that the problem was due to a damaged drum support roller, I decided to replace the bad roller instead of replacing the dyer itself.

The first thing was to remove the front cover
and the front panels to expose the drum. (Only a few screws hold them in place.) Next, the drum was removed by first releasing the belt from the motor pulley and tensioner, and then pulling the drum straight out.

At this point the two rollers would be exposed. The triangular plastic retaining locks were removed by slightly prying them off. The old rollers were then removed and replaced.

Before putting everything back, this was a good time to vacuum all the accumulated lint inside, especially the lint that had accumulated around the motor assembly and the fire box.

(A pleasant surprise: I found a lot of coins inside the unit, enough to recoup half of what I spent for the new rollers.)

It took me 5 minutes to find PartSelect's site, read the comments about the most common problems and identify the solution. The exploded views were a great assist, as it wasn't obvious where the thermal fuse is located or which access panel to remove.

It took less than 5 minutes to remove the rear panel and install a temporary jumper to verify the blown fuse was the only issue. With the new fuse in hand, replair took another 5 minutes.

A word of caution to anyone replacing is fuse - I found that the exhaust vent pipe to the wall was full of lint and nearly blocked. This is a potential fire hazard. While enough air was passing through the flapper vent to make it look like it was OK, the exhaust resistance is what caused the overheating and made the fuse blow.

I spent more time cleaning out the vent pipe than replacing the fuse, for a total of 25 minutes. I strongly urge all dryer owners to physically inspect the exhaust duct annually.

PS Drying time has decreased by 30-40% since the repair.

Just slipped it on, it was very simple. My dry cylces were reduced. Worth the $15 I spent to get the part!!!!