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BASE OF BULB BROKE OFF & WELDED TO SOCKET
PULL RANGE OUT FROM WALL & ALSO REMOVED OVEN DOOR BY SLIDING UP. WORKING FROM INSIDE OVEN & ALSO BEHIND I REPLACED PART . ALWAYS " UNPLUG " RANGE BEFORE YOU START.
Remove drawer by pulling out and lifting up so drawer will slide out of range. Use 1/4 inch Nutdriver or socket - remove the screw that holds the drawer support to the body of the range. Remove support and install new one with screw Pay attention to the way the support fits. There are two holes one for the screw and the other for the plastic prong on the bottom of the support. The prong fits in the bottom hole and the screw in the above hole.
Surface burner stopped working & light indicator remained on
It took my son very little time to install control switch. Using a screw driver he removed the back panel directly behind burner units & replaced the control switch. Very easy.
When the burner was turned on it would be on high for any setting. In fact, the burner would be warm to touch even when the switch was in the off position.
I turned the power off at the circuit breaker, pulled the stove out from the wall, and removed the plug. I removed the top back panel, and took the burner switch out by unscrewing the 2 screws in the front of the panel. I used pliers to remove the wires one at a time from the bad switch and put them on the good switch. I replaced the new burner switch on the front panel and also, replaced the back panel. I put the plug back in the socket, pushed the stove against the wall, and turned the power on at the circuit breaker.
Unplug stove from its wall outlet. Remove two screws securing rear panel. Pull off knob to Burner control which was damaged when surface heating element shorted out. Remove two screws securing control knob. When removing control knob be sure the wires removed from the old control knob are put back on in the same position on the new knob. Reinstall the control knob, and reinstall screws. To remove heating element. Just lift it out and unplug and just plug the new one.
I UNPLUGGED THE WIRE, ASSEMBLE THE BURNER ELEMENT KITS LIFTED UP THE SURFACE BURNER PANEL, OPENED THE BACK RANGE COVER, UNSCREW THE NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR, DISCONNECT THE REPLACEMENT WIRES ON THE BACK PANEL TRACE THE NEW WIRES CLIPS TO THE BACK PANEL & TIGHTEN THEM WITH EXISTING NUTS SCREW THE OTHER ENDS BACK WITH NUT HOLDING THE BURNER CONNECTOR
After watching the video and ordering the parts and searching for the right size socket (which took most of the time) and finding medical tape as I had no electrical tape I took of the back unhooked the terminals and following the wires to determine which ones needed to be replaced I followed the video instructions on reverse as my son had spliced new terminal blocks into the old wires I taped each new wire to the one it was replacing and pulled it through the back of the stove and into the front attached the new wires to the new block and pushed the clips on the other end of the wires to the knob boxes. I rolled up the excess wire and taped it securely with medical tape so it wouldn't unravel and be in the way when I reattached the back shield on the stove. After I repeated the process for the second terminal (I had two that kept shorting out) I reassembled the stove plugged it back into the wall and used both burners that night to cook dinner! I have had no problems with those burners since then. Really if you watch the video first and follow the instructions you should have no problems. It is really quite simple if someone hasn't tried to repair the problems without replacing the wires. Splicing new blocks into old wires just doesn't work. If I have this problem again, which I hope I don't, I will be confident in my ability to fix the problem myself. Thank you parts select for repair video and the parts.
