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removed element found a crack and replaced with new one I got from PartSelect.com. with fast fast shipping,thanks you saved me for spendin more money on a new one. it happened on christmas day of course......
Replacing the Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit was very easy.
1. Pull the stove from the wall a little so you can have space to work. I unplug the stove from lthe 220 outlet. Then remove the Surface Burner element.
2. Then we removed the back pannel from the stove by removing the screws with a nut driver. Only four screws to remove.
3. Once the pannel was removed. I Unpluged the wires from the stove pannel. Being careful not to damage the plug in. There were only two wires to unplug. So trace the wires to make sure you are unpluging the correct one.
4. Lift the top up on the stove and unscrewed the Terminal Block from the top of stove. We only have one screw there.
5. Pull the Terminal Block and wires out and replace with the new Terminal Block, making sure the wires were feed along the side under the top of stove so they can not be damaged. Plug in wires and replace pannel.
The wire to the burners were old and needed replacement. When the new terminals arrived, my husband had gone hunting. When the parts arrived, I pulled the stove away from the wall and found the nut driver that I needed. I removed the screw on the terminal box under the burner and realized I had to remove the back panel of the stove. I unplugged the old wires and plugged in the new ones. I installed the new terminal boxes under the burners and plugged the burners back in. My stove works like new and I am thrilled that it was so easy. Thanks
Disconnected the electric burner from the terminal block, unscrewed the terminal block, removed the two back covers from the range, cut the two wires (since the wires that came with the replacement part were not long enough to reach the switch), spliced the new part to the existing wiring using wire nuts, installed the new terminal block and connected the electric burner to it. With the new terminal block in place, the burner does not lie completely flat like the old one did, but it is functional.
Getting the right stove model number and part number
Difficulty was in determining the right model number and part number of a switch. Noted that the left front burner came on when the switch for the left back burner was turned on. By inspection I found the left front burner switch had become faulty by actually hearing an electric arc in the switch and smelling the oder in the switch. With help from the person I called I was able to determine that the Model Number on the actual stove was wrong. It had an extra 0 between the W and F which she said was a common error in the GE model number. I then gave the switch number I found on the switch to the contact person and she was able to verify the right part number. It was relatively easy to replace the switch by taking off the back upper plate then taking off two screws that held the switch to the stove. The part came quite quickly once ordered. Sears repair wanted $75 just to diagnose then the cost of the part. I got the switch for $69.
I needed to replace all stovetop bowls and found all after-market bowls "just a little off" effecting how flat the burner rested so called PartSelect's hotline and was assured that if I were using the actual model number found on the stove the parts would definitely fit and not almost fit, guaranteed, and they did!
First I shut off the breakers. I cut the wire from the end of the new part and took off the plastic off because the end of the new wire has a special end clamp to connect to the old wire which is in the stove but that wire didn't have the same clamp to be able to connect them together therefore I needed to cut the wire to from the new part also and connect it to the old wire with a wire nut which is on the range which is attached to all the other burners. Twisted them together and I put a wire nut to hold them strong together, pushed in the end of the burner into the 2 holes of this new part. I turned on the breakers.