RB270PXBQ1 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

Turn Off Breaker.

Removed oven racks....

Removed two screws holding element in place...

Disconnect spade lug connectors from old heating element.

Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.

Reinstall 2 screws holding element.....

Replace oven racks.

Turn Breakers back On.

Done 10 Min. Install

I HAVE NOT FOUND ANY GOOD DESCRIPTION OF HOW TO REPLACE DOOR SPRINGS ON A BUILT-IN DOUBEL OVEN ANYWHERE ON THE INTERNET. I HOPE THIS WILL BE OF HELP TO SOMEONE.

I correctly assumed it was the springs that broke. With the springs in hand I shut off the power at the breaker box. I removed both oven doors. The upper oven door required the removal of one screw for each hinge. Then with the door slightly open, wiggle and pull upward and the door detached from the hinge. The lower oven door is removed by just wiggling and lifting with the door slightly open. I then removed 8 screws that fasten the oven to the cabinet. I removed 3 screws that hold the bottom vent cover in place and wiggling and pulling downward the vent cover detached. The bottom of the oven was 11 inches above the floor. I placed two sturdy objects about 10 inches tall in front of the oven and lifting, wiggling, and pulling the oven moved forward. I pulled it out about 2/3 of its depth.

The sheetmetal sides of the oven are indented and the spring attachments are easily accessible. ONE TROUBLE SPOT. The back end of the spring attaches to the cabinet but there is a small metal piece called an "anchor" that attaches to the front of the spring and then to the hinge. When the spring breaks the anchor goes flying. I was able to retrieve one of the anchors but the other one fell down between the insulation and the side of the cabinet and I was not able to retrieve it with out pulling the side loose. I was afraid I would run into other issues if I did that. So my oven is sitting in the kitchen while I wait 3 days for a replacement anchor.

The anchor is about $7 and the 2-3 day shipping is $10 so you might do well to just order one along with the spring.

I ordered a pair of lower door springs at the same time. About $10 each. Worth it to me not to repeat this process in the near future.

Once the oven is pulled out, the springs are very easy to install. I did all three I could do in about 10 minutes max.

MY BIGGEST PROBLEM was deciding how to get at the springs. All diagrams in the installation manual showed solid metal sides on the oven. They did not show that the springs we easily accessible outside the oven case. I was pleasantly surprised to see the indentations as I started to slide the oven out of the cabinet!

With the springs installed, I will just push the oven back into the cabinet, install the 8 screws, replace the lower vent cover and install the doors. Turn on the breaker and receive the applause of my wife for my marvelous ability!

My husband wanted me to call a repair man but I had read online how easy it was. I received my element in one day from Fresno, CA and followed the instructions given by others on line. I couldn't believe how easy it was. The most difficult was removing the connectors because they were stuck. I used needle nose pliers as someone suggested. Saved the cost of a repair man.

1. Open door and place a nail in the small circle in each of the two side hinges. This step is crucial. It keeps the hinges from springing back into the oven when the door is removed.

2. Remove the 2 screws on the oven door at the top of each spring. Close the door until stopped by the 2 nails, then lift the door up and off the hinges.

3. Lay the door on a soft surface(some oven parts may be greasy), inside of the door face up, and remove the 5 screws holding the main two halves of the door together. Remove the top piece.

4. Remove the 4 screws that are under the insulation strips. This will damage the strips, but there is no other way. Just try to keep as much of the strip as you can.

5. Continue removing screws and layers of glass (ours had 3 inner layers)until you reach the inner most piece.

6. Replace the broken glass and then reverse the process to put everything back together.

Notes: We work slowly and methodically, so the whole process took us over an hour but we also took this opportunity to really clean every crack and crevasse that is normally hidden. All in all this was not a very hard job and worth doing it as a DYI project instead of calling a repair person.

This is an easy fix. Just before the holidays, it was imperative that this appliance be in top shape. Since the door 'hung' wrong, it was determined that the hinge pin broke. Remove the 2 phillips head screws on the door and open the door to the to a 15 degree opening. This position allows you to slip the door off the hinge levers. Now that the door is off, replace the hinge pin and slip the retainer ring on with a screw driver blade to push it on the pin. Slide the door back on the levers and fasten the retainer screws. DONE!

The honeycomb filter in the vent was missing so I bought the entire vent cap.. Thought it attach with 2 screws from inside the oven.. BUT -- when you loosen the screws, it wouldn't drop.. Looked at the new part and saw that it attaches to the vent outside the oven as well.. So to replace this puppy, you have to pull the cabinet apart..

Left it for another day.. Hopefully no grease fires..

First I removed the ovem door, then I removed the 4 screws, unplugged element and plugged in the new one, then replace the screws and door. It should have been a 10 min job but I'm old and a bit fat...slowed me down.

First tried to replace the glass and gasket without removing the oven door. Removed all screws and took the door apart. However, I found it was very hard to get the gasket to stay in place and put the glass window in place with the door frame still attached to the oven and upright. Decided to go ahead and lift the door off the hinges by removing the two final screws. Then the door could be layed flat on the floor and it was much easier to put in the insulation and glass pane.

1. Move oven out from wall 2. Remove back panel of oven, 8 screws 3. Remove 3 screws inside oven holding element 4. Pulled wire connections off of element 5. Reverse procedure to install new element

I removed four screws, two each end. Pulled the old handle out , increted the new handle and installed the two screws on eanh end. Presto done.

Had already removed back covers and disconntedted power. When io received parts I replaced them in reverse oder I had removed them. Took me longer to replace back covers because of my bad diabetic hands. Thanks very much, yopu savbed me a bunch. God bless you and yours, god bless america.

Removed the two Philips head screws that attach the element to the back wall of the oven. Pulled off the two wire terminals from the spades on the back of the element. Pushed the two wire terminals onto the spades on the back of the new element. Noticed that one was not tight, so disconnected, squeezed down the wire terminal, and reconnected. Inserted the two screws that attach the element to the back wall of the oven. Element works fine.

I tried taking the sensor out, but the plastic coupling behind the oven wall had melted and the melted piece was larger than the opening in the oven wall. I had to use a mini-screwdriver to chip away at the melted coupling before it would fit through the opening. That took forever...but it finally worked and the repair went quickly (15 minutes) after that.

Ordered element and received it the next day. Removed two screws that holds element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 or 4 inches and disconnected the two wires. Put new element in connected the wires mounted element in place with the two screws. Now works great!