RAX7245AW0 Roper Washer - Instructions

Popped top cap off agitator, removed bolt, removed top agitator, replaced directional cogs, reinstalled top agitator, bolt, cap. This machine is 43 years young, it's happy again.

Used pliers to help disconnect hoses, unplugged power cord, laid washer on its back, unsnapped two clips holding pump to the motor, lifted pump off, and replaced it.

Steps: 1. unscrew the two head screws 2. lift the control head and disconnect the 2 latches for the cover 3. 4. Pull the lid swwitch connector 4. with the lid open pulled the main body to separate from the machine. 5. unscrew the lead switch and remove the wires from the strap 6. unscrew the grounding wire with an 8 mm socket wrench. install the lid switch reversing the steps. DONE

Video made it easy

Popped agitator cap. Used ratchet to remove screw. Pulled off base unit. Inserted cogs into slots after removing worn and or broken cogs. Reinstalled......done!

Used a 7/16 socket to remove bolt then took out the old agitator. Replaced thrust spacer and all parts to the agitator repair kit. I never used the inner cap seal that was ordered because one came with the agitator kit.

I took the Agitator Cap Barrier out of the Top part of the agitator and than screw that holds the 2 parts together. I removed the part that holds the Cogs. I replace the Directional Cogs (dogs) into the holder, replaced the holder into the top agitator, replace the screw, put the new Agitator Cap Barrier in and it now works as good as new!! It took me 3 minutes tops!

After watching the video and reading some of the instructions posted on Parts Select I disconnected the power cord, shut off and disconnected the water lines before laying the washer down on its "back" with help of a dolly.(IF you don’t own a dolly this can still be done without one but I recommend having a friend help you depending on your age and health) Once I had the washer laid down it became apparent to me that I didn’t need to take the whole "cover" off but could do the repair from the bottom of the machine. Following the instructions I first removed the hose clamps from the hose running from the pump to the tub and the hose that runs to the back of the machine where the drain to the wall attaches. I then "popped" the two clips off the pump as described in the video and after removing the pump I turned the clips to the side and removed them as well. At this point I removed the clamp from the "pump to tub" hose on the tub side and then removed the hose. I followed this up by removing the entire hose assembly that the "pump to drain hose" hose attaches too. Once you've seen this "assembly" you'll understand what I mean. Anyway, once that was done and the new parts had arrived (parts came quickly I placed my order on Thru evening and received them on Tues with the Labor Day weekend in-between) Install was as simply as removal, I laid the machine down using the dolly and then simply installed everything starting with "pump to drain hose assembly" then the "tub to pump hose" then the pump itself and finally both hoses to the pump. The "pump to tub" hose came with two new clamps however they are the type of hose clamps requiring the use of a screw drive to tighten not the original type it had on it that you just squeeze with pliers. I used the new ones that came in the package. The other hose didn’t come with a clamp and only has one where it connects to the pump, so I reused the original. I would suggest that you also check or just replace the drain line that runs from the machine to the wall at the same time as the rest of this repair as I did not and the 1st time I ran the machine that hose sprung a leak.

After removing the outer shell of the machine, and disconnecting the supply hoses, I leaned the machine on it's back and disconnected the drain line. Then, it was simply a matter of removing and replacing the damaged pump with the new one. The pump is held in place by two easily removable clips. The hardest part of the whole process was making sure the shaft from the motor lines up with the corresponding hole on the pump.

Followed instructions on WEB site, they were very easy.

After unplugging the washer, I pulled the knob off of the water level switch, removed the screws from each end of the front of the control panel and then swiveled it upwards, revealing the controls and wiring. Removing the switch was very easy, since it's held on with a single 1/4" hex head screw. The wires were a little difficult to remove, but they are that probably way to keep from popping off due to vibration. The clear plastic hose was the easiest thing to remove, since it had popped off before I had opened the control panel and was most likely the real cause of my machine's problem of overfilling. Oh well, I had ordered the replacement switch before doing any troubleshooting since I had thrown my back out (unrelated story) and decided to order the part on a whim. I did blow through the hose, just to make sure it was clear and it was. After putting it all back together, I learned that the new switch has five water level settings, as opposed to the original four of the old switch, so now the pointer on the control's knob doesn't line up perfectly with the four level shown on the panel. It doesn't bother me, but if it did then I suppose I could always draw new markings with a Sharpie. I ran the washer through all five level settings (beginning with the lowest) and it worked perfectly, with no overfilling. I have since run several loads of wash through it, including a queen sized comforter, without any hiccups.

watched the video piece of cake good job guys

So, the instructional video was great but be warned that you REALLY need to hammer the part into place. Basically hammer it into place so that the end of the shaft that it goes on is flush with the plastic piece of the coupler on both ends. Otherwise, you'll put the washer together and run a load and it'll squeal and smell like burning rubber. We had to take it apart like 3 times before we got it on there securely enough. We would then run an empty load and it would be fine but as soon as we would add clothes the squealing and burning would ensure. So, my advice is to hammer it in well and save yourself the time and struggle!

With no broke springs I thought that they might be weak so I ordered them but didn't install them as I found that the basket had a drag at one point of turning it, so I took it down to the clutch and found the nylon arm that released the brake had the small pins broken off. This would cause the brake to not release full enough that the eccentricity in it had a drag spot during the spin causing tremendous vibration. To disassemble I took the transmission off and the basket off and install new clutch assembly with the basket laying horizontal on a table. I did notice that the new clutch only had three pads on the band and the old one had six. I called you back with no satisfaction, but was given the phone # of the manufacturer and they confirmed that theirs had six pads but the part # checked out so I installed it. It now sits basically still during a cycle. I made and supervised the making of parts in a machine shop all my working carrier and I don't understand the weak link of the nylon pins milled / molded on a part that takes a lick from the actuator every cycle. It appears to me it was made to break, but it is about 20 years old. Thanks for your video help on the tube. Fred

Found part needed in partselect website, watch the video after i opened the rear panel ( i should have watch the video before doing any work :( ) that will much easier. after replacing part my washer is now working like new :). Thanks PartSelect. next project dryer ;-))