The terminal block was arcing and flickering, the burner did not heat up
First and foremost I read each of the blogs from your site from other people who have repaired this part. It was great. First I unplugged the stove. Removed the back plate of the stove by unscrewing 6 screws. Removed the heating element & drip pan. I lifted up the stove top to examine the receptable, and removed the receptable held in place by a single screw using the nutdriver. Once it was removed, I cut the wires attached to the receptacle with pliers. I screwed on the new receptacle, and taped the new wires to the old ones which led back to the back panel where they were attached to the switch.
By doing so, I was able to easily lead the new wires to the back side of the stove panel. I removed each old terminal wire and replaced it with the new one. (I had read in a previous blog that the polarity of the new wires didn't matter). I replaced the drip pan, and heating element, turned the switch and everything was working just great! I replaced the back panel, and that was it! As you probably can guess I have never attempted to repair any type of appliance...ever! But your website and the people who shared their stories empowered me to do the job. Thanks so much!
Water dumped over in in my overhead microwave, which dripped down on, & shorted out a burner switch.
My husband had already removed the back plate form the stove and detached the wires from the old burner switch because it was keeping the burner on. He unscrewed the old switch and removed it. He then popped in the new switch, attached the wires to the correct contacts, and put the back plate back on. We plugged in the stove, and that burner works good as new.
Received complete burner receptacle. Decided to take off stove back to plug in directly to burner control. Turn on stove on low. No heat. Bad coil element. Checked for power at coil element. Switched another burner. It heated immediaetly. Have to order or find a burner element
It was as easy as you said. I took the back off, removed the screws holding the terminal, un-hooked it and put the new on on. Replaced the back and wa-la! Working burner
top burner terminal block burned put due to heavy use
Disconnected power supply to range, pull top back metal cover, pull wires from burner on/off switch,and removed one screw that holds block in place. Installed new terminal block by placing screw back on block & placing wires back on the on/off switch.
Pull out the range. Pull out the electric plug. Unfasten the back panel. Raise the range top. Replace the terminal block in exactly the same position as the old one. Put everything back.
This is the third time I have replaced it so it is very easy now. This time I spent a little more time making sure the burner element prongs were just just like the others. Must have been a little loose in the block.
I first unpluged the stove then removed the 6" element then I removed the back panel on the stove located the wires that went to that element unplugged them and removed the block then fished the wires through for new terminal block installed in terminal block bracket then pluged in wires put element in place put back panel back in place plugged stove checkout heat on element good to go 20 min
the terminal was broken and rusting so the burner was not heating well
Removed the back cover with a socket tool, unplugged the old terminal and plugged in the new one. there is a screw holding the terminal block. so easy.
The burner had been replaced and it shorted out ;thus discovered thath the wiring block kit was faulty. The parts ordered were a snap to replace the original .
Shut the power off and unscrewed facial hardware ,unplugged terminal and unscrewed hold down bracket and redid everything that I mentioned above. For a rookie it was a piece of cake.
burner didn't work, using a test light showed only one side was hot.
took the back panel off the range, took the 2 screws holding the switch in place, took the old switch out, marked the wires took the wires off and clipped them onto the new switch, put the new switch into the switch plate, replaced the screws put on the knob, put the panel back on the range. rolled the range back into it's place. turned the buner on to check if it worked. It did so we were done.
Since the unit is a drop-in range I had to remove the heat shield/drip plate to thread the wires from the control button to the receptable. The replacement part wires were to short to make the connection so I have to use some of the wiring from the old receptable to make the connection. That is the reason for using the wire cutter and connecters.
Live in an apartment and they had generic drip pans on the stove causing pots to tilt when cooking.
Replaced drip pans that the apartment Superintendent had in place with the correct drip pans and now cooking is beautiful again! No more uneven cooking on the stove top.
verified switch operation , checked continuity of burner element found open ordered new part and installed next day after extremely fast service from partselect thank you
Removed burner from each one. removed drip bowl. Inserted new bowl. Replaced burner. Excellent help from order people so I got the correct bowl was irreplacable.
