PYE4500AZW Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Pulled the old seal off then pushed the new one in place.

Replaced the thermal shut off and the thermistor located on the heating element bracket.
Easy to diagnose and to replace- not totally accessable but not that bad either. Cleaned out lint obstruction causing the problem.

Once we realized we needed to take the FRONT off the dryer, not the back all went well. It was an easy fix and the part fix perfectly. Instead of $60 or more for a repairman, we spent less than $20 fixing the dryer.

I first made sure there was power to dryer. It was ok so I unpluged the dryer from the socket and afer researching on line I was sure it was the thermal fuse. I check continuity on the fuse and it did not have continuity. So I installed a new fuse and high temp thermostat (they come together)
Just lift top of dryer up and back. In the left rear corner is the heating element. On top of the element is the thermostat. On the right side is the fuse it is a round disc with two white wires attached. The thermostat and heating element need to be removed to install fuse (one screw each and lift out of the way ) . Need to check for blocked lint or like I had the white plastic hose had a kink and need replaced with metal lint hose.

First I removed the screws of the dryer cover. Next removed the screws holding the dryer drum.

Drilled out the two rivets left from the old glide. Inserted the plastic and postitioned the cushion underneath. Inserted the new glide and drilled a hole in the plastic to accomodate the new rivet. Inserted rivet. Pulled the other end so it was tight holding the cushion and did the other end. Done.

Had to cut the glide 1/4 '' of the width to slide it through the existing slots in the panel.

first I went online and took a look at the schematic and realized that two items can shut the complete unit down and would be easy to check. First I checked the door switch with a multimeter then the high limit non-resettable thermostat. The contacts on the thermostat were open which told me it was bad. Went online to www.partselect.com and found the part really easily. came in when they said it would and it was a perfect match to the original (part numbers on the side and eveything). Make sure you correct the problem that caused the unit to overheat in the first place. IN my case the dryer air passages were full of lint. After a good cleaning put it all back together and it worked better than it has in years.

Learned as I went along, from various YouTube videos.

I lucked out opening the top of the dryer in that I didn't break anything when I popped the top up, since I didn't know to use a putty knife to depress inward the retaining clips.

Found the belt lying on top of the drum, and when I lifted it, it easily came free since it was broken.

Watched the YouTube from PartSelect, finally, and Steve made it seem so easy. Unplugged it, turned off the gas, too.

Front two screws unscrewed no problem. Front panel lifted away, no problem. Tons of lint in the front housing, so I decided to clean away as much lint as possible since this was the best opportunity, and I also vacuumed lint out of the sheet metal exhaust all the way to the outdoors exit port. Then I had to get that sheet metal pipe back in place, perfectly, and that was a little tricky

The roller kit was a bargain compared to separate parts I thought I'd need (one roller only) so I replaced both rollers and their posts, spacer, and washers.

Another vender video recommended high temp lithium grease to lube the new posts, but I just used "plumbers grease" that I happened to find lying around the house.

The most difficult part of the whole process was pre-fitting the new screws into the plates of the new posts because you are self-threading the screws and I didn't have a nut driver. (I was trying to do it using two wrenches, one to hold the plate, the other to turn the screw. The torque required is so high that you'll start to round the hex edges of the screws and ruin them. So, I went out and bought a 5/16" socket for $2.49, and self threaded the screws by holding the plates with a wrench, and using my power drill with the 5/16" socket.

This is where you risk ruining everything because as soon as the screw has self-threaded the plate, the resistance drops to near-zero, and the drill zooms the screw down hard onto the plate. I found, afterward, one ribbon of thread lying on the work area, which means I stripped one of the threads by one winding. (I'm not too worried, but it did make me wonder if I had screwed up. Keep the old screws to use as replacements for the new ones if you encounter the same problem where you inadvertently strip a screw too far.)

Then, the plates go back into the dryer, and the left side plate has a much larger gap, because you have to remove/replace it through the rear wall slot by turning it in-situ; the right one just falls down into your waiting hand, and is replaced by raising it up from behind its slot.

Finally, you come to the belt replacement, and just follow the way Steve showed in the YouTube. However, I tried and tried, but it was difficult for me since I'm left handed and you do it with the right hand. I was finally able to get it by getting the belt around the metal drive, first, and then bringing the white wheel over and working it into position by pulling the belt forward to clear the white wheel being positioned to receive the belt's tension.

This is a very doable dryer repair, it will save you hundreds of dollars, you'll do a better job than a repairman (since you vacuum all the lint out too), and its a great story to tell your friends.

Learning how to do it, actually doing the repair, and then double checking that I got everything "right," I'd guess that I put in 8 hours of my time.

It was fun… but keep your cool since there will be a little aggravation, and maybe a trip to the hardware store to get tools you don't own.

I first unplugged the dryer. I had to move the dryer forward a little. Then I used a screwdriver to pry up the top of the dryer from the front. I positioned the top all the way back until it rested on the front of the cabinet. Make sure it's far enough back so it doesn't accidentally close on you while you are working on it. I located the high limit thermostat right above the heating coils. I unplugged the two wires going to it. I used a nut driver to remove the screw that was holding it to a bracket. I then I removed the two screws that held it to another bracket. I installed the new thermostat to the bracket and then reinstalled it to the bracket above the coils. I plugged the two wires back in and closed the lid. Make sure the dryer vent is still attached if you had to move it. The dryer works fine now and doesn't overheat.

watched your video on 'how to' and did it like man showed..no problem

Grown daughter did the repair following instructions on your site........Unplug, take screws out of top by lint filter and with putty knife pry up top panel and lean back. Unplug elec. harness in front corner. A screw on each side of front panel removes that. Get old belt off and then we vaccumed all the lint from under and around drum. Put new belt around drum making sure not twisted and pull pulley as shown to make tight......... would have taken less time but we vaccumed all the lint from under and around the drum. Anyone could do this......

Received the replacement filter which was an exact duplicate of the 22 year old filter. Took the old one out; slid the new one in and got ready for another 22 years of use. At 86 years of age I probably won't be around to see the new filter wear out. The dryer has already outlasted the place where I purchased it - Montgomery Wards! They just don't make stuff to last like this anymore.

I just followed your video how to replace a broken belt , after viewing replacing belt went easy

Very difficult for one person, trying to get the belt engaged into the motor pulley and the idler pulley at the same time. Trying to overcome the tension of the heavy spring on the idler was the main problem, while coping with the small working space with the drum in place. Solved all the problems by removing the drum (for the 3rd time) and making a piece of wood to wedge in against the outside wall of the machine to hold back the spring loaded idler. Then slipped the drum back in place and gently slid the belt around the drum. Then reached in under the drum and slipped the wood piece out while making sure the belt remained on the pulleys. If I had the wood idea at the start, it would have been about a half hour job. Good luck, and don't pinch your fingers.

i followed part select instructions that probable cause was either thermal fuse or high limit thermostat.put ohm meter across both & saw thermal fuse(has pink dot on it) part 53-1182 was open.ordered thermal fuse replacement kit. part#LA-1053. the problem i had was after reaching down the side of heating housing removing the bracket with the thermal fuse,replacing & reconnecting it i had a hard time reinstalling the bracket,very tight space & i don't have very big hands.finally got the fuse in it's hole in the bracket & slid & jammed the bracket into the side of the mounting housing & it stayed secure.dryer started

I loosened the belt removed the drum, removed the push nut and cracked pulley and replaced both,old push nut was a little stubborn but finally got it off.