0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot. 1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back. 2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap. 3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place. 4. Put the cap back. 5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.
No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
Frige evaporator fan became noisy then quit working & frige compartment became warm
Came home one evening and found the refer compartment evaporator fan making a noisy/grinding noise. While waiting for the part to arrive the motor finally quit working and the frige lost its ability to cool, but the freezer still worked fine. This is the fan that is inside the frige between the refer & freezer compartments - NOT the fan motor that is located in the bottom/rear next to the compressor. This grinding noise sounded like it was coming from inside the frige and could be easily heard under the vegetable trays and above the freezer compartment. To access this motor you need to go after it from inside the bottom of the frige compartment - there's NO need to remove the refer door. Pull the vegetable trays and remove the small phillips head screw located down in the lower air flow groove toward the front of the refer. Next, pry up & out the front white trim piece that runs the width of the frige. Once that piece is removed you can lift & slide back the whole lower frige trim/tray. Now lift out the large foam block compartment and you'll have complete access to the evaporator fan motor and the evap coils. Simply pull the fan motor assy out, still attached to the triangular bracket and disconnect the electrical pigtail. Next, pull the fan blade straight off the front hub, split & disassemble the motor bracket, & replace both fan motor grommets. Reverse the steps to reassemble the fan motor to the bracket and reinstall back in the bottom of the frige and plug in the electrical pigtail - the fan should (quietly) fire off instantly and begin the cooilng process. Reinstall the foam block, lower frige tray, front trim piece, reattach the phillips screw, close the door, and give it some time - it took our frige overnight to completely cool down. This is not a tough job, I spent more time figuring out how to access the motor then the actuall replacement. Hope these steps help to speed up your repair! And remeber Red Sox 4 Life!
Barry G was right on with instructions and expectations of the process to trouble shoot parts and how to replace. Barry also provide the right part numbers for replacement items. Thanks again Barry.
1) This is a built-in refrigerator with the compressor, coils, etc. at the top. Turn off the breaker to the fridge. 2) Remove the front panel off the top (just push up and pull out). 3) Removed 2 screws to the old timer and carefully remove the plug. Plug the new timer in and screw in. 4) Since our fridge was heavily frosted up, we moved everything to another refrigerator and coolers and kept the refrigerator off until all panels were room temperature. 5) If you haven't cleaned the coil in a while, vacuum it with a soft brush attachment. 6) Turned back on and the refrigerator is cooler than ever!
Rat chewed up fan blades in refrigerator at our camp.
We just pried off the fan blades and pushed on the new part. Could not have been easier. The rat has been permanently dipatched and, hopefully, that is that.
Part 2 (screws): I let the refrigerator warm to room temp overnight. I took off the freezer shelf brackets and light, and then the bottom of the freezer compartment using a dime to pry it up (tricky). I poured water into the drain under the coil and it drained very slowly. OK, the drain line's plugged somewhere and it's not ice. I took off the back cardboard compressor cover, unbolted and pulled out the fan, and saw the drain tube in the drain pan. There's a little hole cut in the side of the tube. I took a 6 ft length of plastic trimmer line from a lawn edger/trimmer and ran it through the hole and all the way up the drain line. Water started draining out! I jiggled the line around some to make sure it was clear, then I replaced everything the way it came apart. The white painted freezer screws had lost their paint since this was the third time in 4 years the freezer had been dismantled before diagnosing the plugged drain line. The first time this happened, (at age 10 years (not me-the refrigerator)) I called a repairman who said I should just replace the refrigerator since this brand was no good. He was wrong - he just didn't know how to fix it and now it's working fine (plus he lost one of the screws). I really like my now 14 year-old GE Profile refrigerator and I'd buy another (plus it was made in the USA!!) Second time, I took it apart myself and failed to notice the drain was partially plugged with something (I assumed it was frozen). Part 1 (slide cover): The other repair was the right bottom shelf bracket got broken somehow. The replacement bracket from PartSelect was identical to the original and the repair was easy, except it took me a while to remember how it went together. Thanks and I hope you like my trimmer line ldea. Support our economy - buy American!! Thanks PartSelect. Signed GR in Corpus Christi, TX.
-- Hardest part was removing the section to get into the Defrost Thermostat. Used a hand scraper to push plastic piece back wards (39 in parts diagram) once pushed back about 1/4" it then pops up and can come out (towards the front). Noticed that the evaporator was full of ice and the fan was working). Replaced Thermostat after defrosting evaporator... works like a charm.
