PSD2260K35 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

After disconnecting the supply and drain hoses I unscrewed the security screws and slid the unit out of it's space under the counter. I tipped the machine about 30-45 degrees to one side and examined the underside. I noticed a solenoid that appeared to control a valve leading to the drain tube. I cycled the washer through a wash cycle and noticed that the solenoid never activated. I removed the solenoid and found it filled with debris. I cleaned it out and reinstalled it, but it still did not function. I ordered the part from PartSelect.com because they had the clearest description of the part I needed. Delivery was quick and installation took only a few minutes. After hooking everything back up and sliding the machine back in place, it works like new.

Unscrewed 2 screws from under the counter, pulled out dishwasher. Saw where it was leaking. Took wires loose, took the rack out, unscrew the white mesh, took out the dishwasher sump housing product saw a crack and ordered the piece. For anyone out there make sure you turn the electric power switch off before you attempt to fix anything!!!!!!

To remove the upper rack, twist the support rail end caps toward the center of the machine and slightly downward. The caps will come off and you can slide the new rack into place. Reverse the process to replace the end caps. One of mine broke and I will need to order replacements.
The original rack is no longer available. The replacement, which is the only one GE offers, has less storage space and is not as sturdy. It bends downward when full. I am very disappointed and recommend not replacing the rack unless you have no other choice.

It was tricky to get the old rack off. Usually you can unclip the clips closest to the front wheels to pull the rack out. However, there is an area behind one of the wheels that you can kind of release and than pull the rack out. You then have to slide out the funnel/fan piece from the middle. That piece slides/ snaps in the middle of the the new rack. Then slide the new rack in place, re attach the release used to slide oldrack out.
That is it !!

Took off the lower faceplates. Removed the old eyelet assemblies (one broken, one not) and replaced both with new ones. Very easy to repair.

Once the new motor and pump kit arrived. I removed the dishwasher, turned it upside down and replaced the motor and pump with the new one per the directions. Difficulty came in feeding the electrical wire/plug back through the cabinets. Once done, turned on the dishwasher, filled the tub, then manually moved the dial to drian. The water still would not drain from the tub. I searched further for the problem. Here it is; Found the air gap tube was plugged with food. Once I removed, cleaned and reinstalled the air gap, the tub drained fast and everything works great. So, I hope you folks put this up in your troubleshooting section for others to check before buying a pump and motor kit. If you had, I would have been able to check out the air gap, clean it out first before spending $140.00 for a pump and motor kit I didn't need. Anyway, lessons learned..Jeff

Replaced with a new rinse aid fill cap.

I watched the video and did exactly what he did. I am a novice when it comes to repairs. I learn as I go. This repair went flawlessly. Ordering was quick and easy. The part arrived quickly. The repair took less time than expected. The part was what I needed and nothing else broke or went wrong when repairing the original problem. It was a 100% success.

I simply removed the front toe kick panels.
The solonoid is staring you in the face.
I removed the small nuts on back side of the solonoid bracket and removed the retaining clip and springs.
I installed the new solonoid and was very surprised how easy it was.

I DID turn the power OFF at the breaker panel prior to starting the repair.

Old baffles lift out and new ones installed - very easy

I first assumed that the leak was from the door gaskets getting old (unit is near 25 years old). Therefore I replaced the door gasket and two bottom corner gaskets first (no tools needed, took about 15 minutes). All gaskets remove easily and the new door gasket "snaps" back into a groove. Pay attention to how the bottom corners of the door gasket are installed. The bottom corner gaskets simply fit back into their openings. But, leak continued. Further investigation revealed the lower offset spray arm had worn out and had a big hole in the bottom of it, which was spraying water up through the bottom lip of the door. It took about 15 minutes to replace the arm, by simply unscrewing the spray tower (reversed threads - using only my hands). Problem solved, unit cleans much better. I hope to use it a few more years until a major kitchen remodel fits my budget.

I first removed four screws holding the two cover panels attached to the dishwasher front at the bottom. Next I removed the broken cable and put everything back together that had sprung apart when the cable broke. Then I inserted the two door springs ends into the cable slots. Next I pulled on the springs to create slack and attached the cable / eyelet assembly to the protruding tab on the dishwasher frame. After attaching both sides the door works perfectly.

Disconnect water line and screws (2) holding dishwasher under cabinet, and clamp for wastewater line. Pulled dishwasher out, turned on its side, and removed pump. Disassembled pump per instructions (great instructions) and installed new parts. Reversed to reassemble and except for a loose clamp that leaked (I tightened) it went well. Just under 1 hour.

Unplugged unit, unscrewed screws on top of dishwasher attached to countertop, undid water supply and drain hose that goes into tee with garbage disposal. Using crescent wrench turned front leveling screws up all the way and slid/rocked dishwasher out from under the counter - I had no problem leaving back leveling screws down. Turned dishwasher over on some towels (it WILL leak some water so spread out some towels!) so it was oriented like the directions that came with pump and motor. The directions were good, although color or a picture might have been more helpful. CHECK the new pump/ motor unit CAREFULLY for any loose debris from packing etc. I had a small piece of plastic that was in the top of the motor that goes in the dishwasher bottom that rattled around after I installed everything and put it back. I was able to get to it from the drain assembly in the tub but it made a heck of a racket at first. All in all, I had a great experience. I'm glad I ordered the pump and motor even though I only thought I needed the drain solenoid because when I took the old unit out, the prop on the old impeller was almost gone. Easy to order, good customer service (I called with a question and talked to a wonderful customer service representative!), good directions and easy to do. I'd say a 4 out of 10 in terms of difficulty. Thanks PartSelect!

Only getting "humming" sound from dishwasher. Although water had filled the dishwasher tub, pump/motor would not operate. After some research, figured the motor had siezed and I had to replace the pump/motor assembly as mentioned on this site. The kit came in a couple days and I reserved a Sunday afternoon for the repair which I had never done before. Hardest part of repair was unhooking and removing dishwasher from under counter and then getting it back in proper place. I would suggest providing some instruction within the repair instructions showing how the dishwasher is installed or how to remove it as I had never installed one so I was not quite sure what screws etc I needed to remove on the dishwasher itself to start to remove it? I was able to find the original installation instruction for the dishwasher and found that all you had to do was remove two screws from the inside top of the dishwasher which were securing it to the bottom side of the kitchen counter and then the whole thing just slides out. Once removed, turned dishwasher over to access bottom where pump/motor is located. After determining which diagram to use with the instructions, proceeded to replace the motor/pump assembly. It came out easily after wrestling with some corroded bolts/nuts and the existing pump inlet and outlet hose clamps. Mine were old and worthless and no new ones (3-4") are supplied with the kit. Had to run to hardware store to get new hose clamps for the inlet/outlet of the pump before intalling new one. Suggest new hose clamps be provided with the kit. Only thing that was not too clear in instructions was when reconnecting power wiring harness to motor. By looking closely at the instruction diagram I was able to locate what looked to be the right power extension harness from the bag of parts and attach it to the existing power wire harness and the new motor. Suggest also that you somehow better distinguish or identify the proper way the power wire harness should be fastned to the motor? The existing power wires were both the same color and both the female and male connections for the power at the new motor were identical leaving you to guess which wire goes to which connection. After re-installing dishwasher, put about a gallon of water in bottom of unit prior to starting and then put it through a few cycles. It has been working just like new. Suggest having a helper when removing and re-installing dishwasher from under kitchen counter to assist with the power cord, water line, drain line, and help to turn the dishwasher upside down and right side up again.