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Dishwasher door was leaking water at the bottom corners.
It took less than a minute to remove the old bottom door gasket - it pulls right out. You wouldn't think the part looks the way it does (a 1.5 inch wide plastic strip that runs the length of the door with rubber gaskets on both ends) but have faith. Trust the diagram/picture - it is the correct part and will fix the leak. The new gasket arrived within a couple days of ordering and was simple to install - no tools. It slides into place in less than a minute and is held in by friction. Problem solved and no more leaks. For under $12 (parts and shipping) I had my dishwasher fixed. A service call by itself would have run $75 - just for someone to show up at the house, and then probably another $50 for parts and labor to install. My wife made the comment "Even I could have fixed that". A very simple and easy repair - you can do it!!!
This was the second part of repair. Left side was constantly falling out of the slide. I replaced the same items as above minus the gasket and screw kit. Once done, the right side was sloppy so I orders part for that side plus gasket which slid right in. 1. Removed stops on front end of Upper Dishrack Slide on both sides. 2. Removed Upper Dishrack 3. Remove Roller and Axle/clip (4 each) 4. Push Roller onto Axle on all 4 kits 5. Install all 4 roller kits on Upper Dishrack 6. Remove stops from back end of Upper Dishrack Slides. 7. Remove both Slides 8. Remove 8 each Tub Wheels. 9. Using old or new Screws and Washers, install new Tub Wheels. 10. Install both Upper Dishrack Slides ensuring that small holes are toward the back. 11. Install stops on the back end of Slides. 12 Install Upper Dishrackinto slides 13. Install front stops on slide 14. Pulled out Gasket 15. Install replaced Gasket
Unplugged dishwasher, pulled it out. Unclamped hose and unscrewed water source to inlet valve, removed wiring harness, unscrewed bracket and reinstalled new valve. Now have a functioning dishwasher.
My friend bought a used dishwasher at a garage sale, the previous owner had thrown away the drain hose because it was "nasty" they said....remember it could have been cleaned. When I went to install it, I removed the old washer, and discovered that the old hose would not fit on the replacement dishwasher. I went to the local repair shop, armed with the model and serial #'s. they searched and searched their books and could not find the hose part number. they said "good luck" when I left...I went home and looked up the model on your web site, ordered the hose, and in 3 days had the dishwasher installed and running in about 30 minutes...thanks for prompt shipping.. I couldn't believe it arrived so soon...Mowerman
The drain pump was still working but was making a lot of noise
Putting the new pump in place to test it only took about five minutes. The lower, front, kick-plate panel was already off because I had removed it to figure out what was so loud. The steps after that were:
- Unplugged it and the disposal under the sink (just in case) - Pulled the wires out of the bottom front of the drain pump - With a Philips screw driver I loosened the front hose clamp and pulled off the hose - With the pliers I pinched the back hose clamp and pulled off the hose - Twisted the pump off of its soft plastic bracket
To put the new one on I reversed the process.
Once it was in place and before I put the panel back on, I plugged in the dishwasher and started a cycle.
The pump was quiet but the person who installed the dishwasher in the first place had the drain hose resting on a spring. When the pump ran it resonated through the spring making a pretty loud noise.
So I unplugged it again, disconnected the hose, fed it under the spring along the floor and then reconnected it. When I plugged it back in and tested it, things were much quieter.
With everything in place I put the panel back on and was finished.
Note: I have worked on dishwashers before and most of the time they have insulation behind the kick-plate panel to quiet them, but this one didn’t. I will probably add that some time later.
Removed bottom plate and heating element brass nuts. Disconnected heating element. Connected new one then replaced brass nuts. Put bottom plate back on. Very easy.
The Spray arm and the support had come off during operation and subsequently melted on the heating element. This was our fault, as a knife had slipped through the lower dish-rack and acted as a ramp to launch the spray arm as it came around. The support was a simple 1/4 turn counter-clockwise until it clicked into place, drop the strainer basket into position around the support, them push the spray arm into place until the catches snap over the retaining ring molded into the support. All told, about 10 minutes, max.
1. Bottom door gasket removed very easy by grabbing left corning and pulling out. Starting with notch on right side, slide the hard plastic side up at a slight angle to catch the slot the gasket will seat in. Slowly moving toward the left, push gasket into seated position. Notch in gasket will make sure it is in correct position. Push gasket all the way in so that it is flush with bottom edge of door. Watch when first sliding gasket in, it has to g at a slight up angle or it will fall into an empty space. 2. Remove Tub gasket by gripping one side and pulling out. Replace in same fashion making sure the angled wedge of gasket is first part that lays flat in slot. Working from one side to the other, make sure the gasket seats completely. Trim excess if necessary.
Disconnected power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Removed the bottom panel of the dishwasher. Used a stubby Phillip screwdriver to remove the single retaining screw holding the high limit thermostat against the bottom of the dishwasher tub. Not only was the thermostat burned out, one of it's electrical connectors was also destroyed. Removed the tape holding the cable bundle together so that I could work on the quick disconnect plug outside of the unit. One end of the quick disconnect plug was completely burned through and needed to be replaced. After doing the necessary electrical repairs and assembling the new thermostat into position I applied power and everything worked fine. It helped having a picture on your website that I could use to identify the correct replacement part.
As another poster had written, on terminal on the thermostat was burned off, most likely due to poor contact by the female spade connector on the end of one of the wires. Removed the DW, tipped it back to gain access, removed the failed thermostat, installed the new one, crimped a new terminal on the end of the wire, and re-installed the DW. Tested all cycles with the heat on and everything worked as designed. Very simple repair, took more time to get the DW out and put it back in than to replace the part and repair the wire.
I will make a few additions to the other instructions, which are great and let me see that the job was doable. To the tools needed, add pipe tape. 1. Shut off water supply. 2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the valve assembly. (This was a pain on my machine—too little room for the wrench, you may have a better tool—but I did get it out, slowly.) 3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection (Look for your red and blue wires on the connector, my red was to the top of the solenoid, and reattach with the same grounding) from the solenoid. (This step was a great bit of information; It allowed me to see that I could do the following steps with ease, That is, the unit dropped down where you could work on it.) 4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve. 5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solenoid. 6. Remounted assembly to the frame. 7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve. (I had to take off the L shaped connector at the bottom of the old valve and add it to the new valve. This was an extra step that required two bigger wrenches to hold the old assembly and unscrew the L joint. I just needed the extra leverage to get the old off and the new on. I am referring to the copper connection that connects to you water supply) (8) The new valve had a slightly different configuration than my old. The rack it sits on was about an inch or so longer. This meant that I had to readjust my copper pipe just a bit to match up when it was reassembled. No big deal, I had lots of pipe length to work with. Actually, moving the valve a bit further back made more room for the wrench to work—very happy about that. In addition, the hose attachment went from a left exit to a back exit. Doesn’t seem to matter. (9) Turned on the water, washed some dishes. (Took me about an hour, mostly because of the difficulty with the wrenches. Otherwise—piece of cake)
Remove dishwasher from cabinet flip on it's back. Remove two wire connectors, two torx screws pull pump out and replace very simple. Parts select were great and very fast to ship parts
After figuring out the problem wasn't the water inlet switch, I replaced the switch assembly for the water level float. Cut off supply water to dishwasher, removed the 2 screws holding switch assembly, and installed new switch. 15 minutes, very easy job.
Dishwasher was leaking at the lower left side of the door.
Probably the easiest repair job that you could encounter. I removed the old gasket from the door frame. Cut the new gasket to length and pushed it into the door frame.
