PLD2855RFC1 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

1. Bottom door gasket removed very easy by grabbing left corning and pulling out. Starting with notch on right side, slide the hard plastic side up at a slight angle to catch the slot the gasket will seat in. Slowly moving toward the left, push gasket into seated position. Notch in gasket will make sure it is in correct position. Push gasket all the way in so that it is flush with bottom edge of door. Watch when first sliding gasket in, it has to g at a slight up angle or it will fall into an empty space.
2. Remove Tub gasket by gripping one side and pulling out. Replace in same fashion making sure the angled wedge of gasket is first part that lays flat in slot. Working from one side to the other, make sure the gasket seats completely. Trim excess if necessary.

Disconnected power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Removed the bottom panel of the dishwasher. Used a stubby Phillip screwdriver to remove the single retaining screw holding the high limit thermostat against the bottom of the dishwasher tub. Not only was the thermostat burned out, one of it's electrical connectors was also destroyed. Removed the tape holding the cable bundle together so that I could work on the quick disconnect plug outside of the unit. One end of the quick disconnect plug was completely burned through and needed to be replaced. After doing the necessary electrical repairs and assembling the new thermostat into position I applied power and everything worked fine. It helped having a picture on your website that I could use to identify the correct replacement part.

As another poster had written, on terminal on the thermostat was burned off, most likely due to poor contact by the female spade connector on the end of one of the wires. Removed the DW, tipped it back to gain access, removed the failed thermostat, installed the new one, crimped a new terminal on the end of the wire, and re-installed the DW. Tested all cycles with the heat on and everything worked as designed. Very simple repair, took more time to get the DW out and put it back in than to replace the part and repair the wire.

I will make a few additions to the other instructions, which are great and let me see that the job was doable. To the tools needed, add pipe tape.
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the valve assembly. (This was a pain on my machine—too little room for the wrench, you may have a better tool—but I did get it out, slowly.)
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection (Look for your red and blue wires on the connector, my red was to the top of the solenoid, and reattach with the same grounding) from the solenoid. (This step was a great bit of information; It allowed me to see that I could do the following steps with ease, That is, the unit dropped down where you could work on it.)
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solenoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve. (I had to take off the L shaped connector at the bottom of the old valve and add it to the new valve. This was an extra step that required two bigger wrenches to hold the old assembly and unscrew the L joint. I just needed the extra leverage to get the old off and the new on. I am referring to the copper connection that connects to you water supply)
(8) The new valve had a slightly different configuration than my old. The rack it sits on was about an inch or so longer. This meant that I had to readjust my copper pipe just a bit to match up when it was reassembled. No big deal, I had lots of pipe length to work with. Actually, moving the valve a bit further back made more room for the wrench to work—very happy about that. In addition, the hose attachment went from a left exit to a back exit. Doesn’t seem to matter.
(9) Turned on the water, washed some dishes. (Took me about an hour, mostly because of the difficulty with the wrenches. Otherwise—piece of cake)

Remove water supply, take off two screws, attach new part reconnect water supply.

After figuring out the problem wasn't the water inlet switch, I replaced the switch assembly for the water level float. Cut off supply water to dishwasher, removed the 2 screws holding switch assembly, and installed new switch. 15 minutes, very easy job.

Probably the easiest repair job that you could encounter. I removed the old gasket from the door frame. Cut the new gasket to length and pushed it into the door frame.

Water leak solved...

The parts above fell off or broke and were not covererd under warratee. I called you guys, the parts came in a few days and I snapped them on. Your service was very good.

Pulled out old gasket from bottom of door with needle nosed pliers and then put in new one in.

I found the parts needed on Part Select and read comments by users. I took the suggestion to buy both springs at the same time and the door linkages too. Although they were pricey, the parts arrived in a few days and were absolutely perfect. To my suprise and delight, the entire fix for the broken spring and link and the opposite spring and link were easily accomplished in less than 10 minutes. The links just hook directly onto a small hook on the door and the springs have specially bent ends that fid the linkage and then the adjustable length holes on the door. It made me feel quite manly for about fifteen minutes as I made everyone in the house open and close the dishwasher door several times.

Unscrewed the old spray arm and replace with the new spray arm.

The best part was in the ordering process. Having the diagrams with the parts let me see that I was ordering the correct part. Thanks!

Unscrewed upper sprayer by hand, screwed new one in by hand. Piece of cake!

The spray arm comes off into 3 parts but is really only supposed to be one. I removed the nut from the old assembly and attempted to place the new assembly on by hand. The new nut seemed to be slightly smaller than the original so it would not attach to the dishwasher. Using a kitchen knife, I removed the new nut from the arm unit and attached the new arm to the original nut and it went back on easily. The connection of the new arm to the new nut was 3 tabs that needed to be depressed with the knife and was a different conection method than the assembly that kept coming off in the wash cycle. The replacement part had a much better design than the original.

I replaced the basket. No tools necessary. New basket seems sturdier than original. Very satisfied with my purchase.

Discovered upper wash arm had come off. It looked like it was repairable, but the bushing/clip holding the arm came off after one wash. Looked on line and reviewed part and saw it was a one piece assembly from photos. Removed old assembly by unscrewing from top of washer and screwed new assembly in place.