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leaking door- Dispenser Door Latch Grommet
Myscanning other reviews i saw mention dishwahser developed a small leak on RHS of door. I assumed the door gasket and planned to order that. On of the dispenser gromet which is only a $5 part so ordered that as well. I first replaced the door gasket which is an easy 10 mins job and ran the dishwasher again, but it still leaked.
I then removed the 7 torx screws on the door panel which came away easily. It was obvious that water was in there, so i removed the two screw on the dispenser with a nutdriver to replace the grommet. This process took 20-30 mins. After reassembly the leak was gone.
Without the comments on the website i would never have thought of the disepenser as source of the problem.
First I turned off the circuit breaker to dishwasher. Then removed the lower spinner and related parts. The water in the bottom needs to be sucked out with a shop vac next, because when the pump screws are removed any remaining water will drain underneath onto the floor. Remove the wash pump and drain rotor. Remove the front bottom plate to access underneath, unplug the electric motor and thermister. Unscrew both hoses,drain and upper wash arm. Move the locking ring to release the the entire assembly up into the dishwasher. The kit I bought had most of all the washer parts included, so on reassembly I used the new ones. The rest when back together in reverse order after a good cleaning. Since the thing was apart anyway why not clean up all the filters on reassembly. The kit also came with complete instructions.
Remove bottom rack. Unscrew the retaining ring on the wash arm, remove along with wash nozzle. Unscrew the eight retaining screws on the filter cover and remove (be carefull not to lose the two plastic bushings). Pick off and set aside the wash fan. Remove the six retaining bolts on the discharge housing. Pull up and remove the discharge housing. Remove the gasket (buy a new one, cheap and easier) with small screwdriver. Push gasket into new assembly. Under plastic nut with pliers and take off the plastic bushing that the wash arm rides on. Install new housing assembly with the parts that was taken off in the reverse order. Be carfull when installing the filter cover to make sure the drain outlet is aligned or mated to drain. Gently push down until the filter in down and continue reassembly.
(PS: Never use Sears parts, they extrembly slow as well unable to deliver on time). Wash your dishes
The pins on the soap dispenser somehow became disengaged and lost in a wash cycle.
It was difficult to use the guide provided online to determine what position to place the spring in. Finally I realized that the spring had to be placed with the tip that sticks out against the wall of the dishwasher to make the spring action work. The long and short pins were not a problem. How to place the spring was the main problem, but I finally figured it out. I did not need any special tools to accomplish this. I just used a kitchen knife to push the short pin into place.
Made noise like something was bouncing around in the spray arm.
I took apart the lower spray arm apart and removed the 6 hex screws. I noticed that the little plastic circle thing had been ripped off the dome-shaped thing. I replaced the part and put it all back together.
wheel axle broke on one of the 4 wheels that supports the top rack
I followed the directions in the dishwasher manual how to remove the top rack of the dishwasher, basically removing the stops on each side, and I set the rack on the counter. I replaced both sides even though one had not yet broken. To replace the part, 5 screws had to be removed; I used an allen wrench. The replacement location of the part was pretty obvious once the screws were removed. The inside of the plastic piece that was opened in the process of removing the defective part was dirty so I took some time to clean that out before attaching the new part. The actual unscrewing and attaching the new part probably took 10 or 15 minutes per side. It took a few tries to get the height adjusting lever to move freely before I tightened the screws. The rack works great now.
Piece of cake. I panicked for a minute before I realized that there was a threaded brass 90 in the inlet valve. It looked like it was the wrong part for a minute. Once I got the 90 reinstalled in the new valve, I had it back together in 10 minutes. It seems to be working better.
turn off breaker turn off water supply line note wire color locations on notepad disconnect 2 spade lugs (pliers) disconnect inlet line (adj. wrench) disconnect outlet line (pliers on hose clamp) remove old valve assembly (4 screws w/nutdriver) remove ground jumper from old valve remove inlet pipe ell from old unit (vise & pliers) clean open end of pipe ell (file) apply teflon dope tape to pipe threads install pipe ell on new valve reorient solenoid 90degrees cw to match Maytag installation reinstall ground jumper install new valve assembly in dishwasher reconnect hose and hose clamp reconnect inlet line reconnect spade lugs turn on supply line, check for leaks turn on breaker start washer at appropriate cycle to test water flow done!
No Water caused soap to not dispense & no clean dishes.
I took off the front bottom panel for an easy access. The valve is located on the left. Shut off water to the dishwasher. Remove the bracket that holds the valve. Remove hoses and 2 wires on the valve switch. Install new valve by revesing the steps above.
First unplug the unit. Open door. Take a special tool to remove all the screws (star shaped) around the edge of the door, and remove plastic panel where motor for detergent cup sits. Remove wires (two) from the motor. Remove wax motor by unsnapping motor from its cradle--comes out by moving the fingers holding it in. Push new motor into position, being sure the round pin sticking out at the end (on the left side) so that it sits in the groove made for it. Replace panel and screws, plug power cable back into its box. Close detergent cup door, turm on dishwasher, run through cycle, open door and check to see if detergent door opened up. If it did, then fill with dishes and wash.
First, I searched the repair help on this site to see what others did to repair their diswashers, and it looked easy, so I just followed the same instructions. First, I used a hex star key wrench to remove the screws that hold in the interior door cover. I disconnected the leads to the defective wax motor, reconnected the leads to the new motor and screwed the door back together. It took 15-20 minutes and was a piece of cake! My first appliance repair, and as a single woman and first-time homeowner, I was really impressed with this site! It gave me confidence to tackle more home repairs instead of calling for service and getting raked over the coals.
Ordered the spring and the Door Spring Linkage. Turned out to be a broken Door Spring Linkage not the spring. Unscrewed the two screws securing the dishwasher to the countertop and slightly pulled out the dishwasher enough to see the spring. Replaced the broken Door spring linkage and it resolved the issue.
1) Emptied Dishwasher (roll-around model) 2) Tipped it onto its back 3) Removed Toe Kick (2 screws) and Bottom Cover (4 screws) (screw driver) 4) Opened Door to access side panel (careful not to let it drop on my fingers) 5) Using Torx driver, removed two screws holding side panel on. This makes it easier to access the linkage and spring. 6) Removed broken link 7) Installed new link and spring noting the spring direction from the spring on the other side of the door. 8) Pulled spring over the bottom rail bracket with pliers. 9) Reinstalled panels in the reverse order.
First, I removed the screws that hold the interior part of the door in place. Next, I removed the two screws that covers the interior parts of the latch release in place. Then, I removed the broken latch, put in the new one and attached the spring. I put the pieces back in place, and the two screws back in. Finally, I screwed the door panel back together.