NWSR483EB3WW Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

I took the Dryer apart easily just as the instruction video showed. I quickly noticed that I needed what was described as Gray or Green slides as well as the white slides recommended. I had to find them locally and it took an hour to retrieve them from a local repair shop. The Rear Drum Bearing was extremely hard to remove from inside the Drum. The screws had frozen in place. Finally broke them loose with Vise Grips from the back side. All the new parts went in very easy. Highly recommend getting Green Slides and also since it's apart put a new belt on, which I did not do.

My dryer was making a grinding noise so I tore it apart using a screw driver, a torks bit and a pair of pliers. It took about 15min to get it appart. I found the idler pully was worn out and broke in 2 pieces. I ordered the new part along with a new belt, since I had it appart, and they arrived the next day. It took about a half hour to put the new parts in and put the dryer back together. Works great now. While I had it apart I cleaned the elements and greased the bearing.

I watched a video on PartSelect.com, opened up the dryer (that's the first time I had opened a dryer), found that the bearing was worn down, ordered the replacement parts for under $40, and fixed the dryer in just a few minutes. The whole process was much easier than I expected. I should have done it weeks ago.

At first I thought it was the belt but when I took off top portion of dryer I saw belt was fine. I got to this site and found source of noise was drum bearings from postings. I ordered the parts and much to my suprise had it working with 15 minutes. Web site was very helpful.

First dis connect from power sourse remove knob and the four screws that secure that instrument panel from machine.With a simple twist removed the defective switch,inserted new switch, transfered wires from old switch to new, replaced the panel and knob, reconnected power cord and it's done. Total time for this repair was less than ten minutes.

Watched video first, then diagnosed trouble. Went to internet for cost and avalible parts. Copied parts diagram. Very pleased with price and orderd parts assosiated with front drum. 4 days later parts arrived.

new handle just popped right in the slots

After unplugging the dryer, I removed the rear cover of the control area by removing 3 phillips screws on the back of the dryer - There is also a lower small panel that will come out along with the rear control panel cover during this operation. Next I removed 4 T20 Star type screws on the top painted edge of the control panel. The panel then tilted forward allowing good access to the start switch. I removed the switch from the panel WITHOUT taking off the wires as I wanted to verify that I was getting the wires transfered correctly. Both the new and old switch have number designations by the connection terminals. Once I had transfered the wires to the new switch by associating the numbers on the switch. The terminal with two wires has a little adapter that comes out with the two wires. I placed the new switch into the hole on the control panel, gave it a twist to engage the holding clips and when rotated into place, the switch "clicked" as it locked the little arm that sticks out of the side of the switch into place. Reassembly of the panels was easy, just put the panels back into place and torque down the screws and replace the control knob. Even though I had to purchase a set of stardrivers to complete this repair, the whole repair process ran only $30.00 and I ended up owning a set of star-screwdrivers. The last time Mr. Repairguy was here it ran over $200.00! Also, the documentation offered by Parts Select made locating and getting access to the switch fairly easy.

Thanks to the Part Select YouTube videos, I was able to determine how to disassemble the dryer without having to spend much time trying to fixure that evolution out, and I was pretty much able to troubleshoot what the potential problems (and fixes) were via the various Part Select videos (drum slide(s) install, bearing install). The only part that took a bit of time to install was the drum rear bearing. It is an easy install, but it was helpful to have my son hold the bearing from the back (outside) of the drum while I tighten the screws from the inside of the drum. Again, watching the Part Select videos beforehand is a must!

Had to tap three holes in the rear bearing to match the three attachment screws. Screw up with the part.

it was easy, it clip right on.needed to give it a little tap to get it in .

Watched parts select video. Removed door screws. Pulled door off. Removed top screws. Pulled top off. Disconnected wires. Removed light bulb which broke. Removed drum bearing. Used pliers to remove the remaining part of the broken light. Put in new drum bearing. Installed drum bearing slides. Two are recommended. Put the dryer back together. The noise has stopped.

I watched the video on PartSelect.com on how to change out the Front Drum Bearing and where and how the Drum Bearing Slides were installed and then I got a Phillips Screw Driver and a pair of Needle Nose Pliers. The first thing I did was unplug the dryer. I unscrewed the two screws located at the top corners of the door opening that fastened the top of the dryer and then removed the top and set it aside. While I had the top off I took the opportunity to note the condition of the Drum Belt in case it also needed to be replaced. The drum belt appeared to be in good shape so I removed the two screws that fastened the front of the dryer, pulled the front of the dryer forward letting the drum fall slightly off of the Front Drum Bearing, and then disconnecting the door switch wires making sure I wrote down where each of the three wires attached to the wire harness on the front panel of the dryer went. I pulled the front panel off and the first thing I noticed was that all four of the Drum Bearing Slides were GONE as were the brackets on the Front Drum Bearing that held them. There were a couple piles of grey dust on the front panel which were the remains of a couple of the Drum Bearing Slides. I unscrewed the light bulb and just pulled the Front Drum Bearing off and discarded it. The new Front Drum Bearing snapped easily into place and I installed the Drum Bearing Slides, of which there are TWO types, into their proper brackets. I cleaned out the lint from the exhaust vent on the bottom of the front panel as well as the hardened lint from around the fan on the bottom of the dryer where the exhaust vent on the front panel attached before I plugged the three door switch wires back in their proper locations on the front panel wire harness and, making sure the drum rested on the Front Drum Bearing, reattached the front panel and screwed the fastening screws back into place. Then I reattached the top, which took a few minutes and some colorful metaphors because anyone who has ever done any kind of repair knows that the mechanism you are trying to repair never wants to go back together. After getting the dryer top where it was supposed to go I screwed the fastening screws back into place. Before I plugged the dryer in to test it I took the opportunity to remove and completely clean out the dryer exhaust vent pipe from inside the pipe that comes out of the dryer all the way to where the vent exhausts to the outside. You wouldn't believe how much lint hardens on the insides of the exhaust vent pipe. I reattached everything, plugged in the dryer, and turned it on. The dryer was as quiet as it was when I first bought it.

took out old one and replaced it with the new one,took seconds

First, disconnect the dryer from the outlet. I started by removing the knobs from the front, then removing the panel that covered the knobs by removing the screws on top. This requires a special star-shaped screwdriver, easy and cheap to get at Home Depot. DO NOT try using a phillips screwdriver. It will strip out the heads of the screws. Once you have removed that, disconnect the wires from the switch, noting which wire went to which connection. They're numbered 1 through 4 although you only use three of them. You will see that the switch has a skinny, narrow "tab" sticking out the side (look at the new one for reference). You will need to gently lift the end of that while "unscrewing" the switch from the panel (you might need a pair of pliers if it's rusted, but DO NOT force). Once out, just replace with the new switch, making sure to use the numbers for connections and not just where they're positioned on the back of the switch. Reassemble and you're done. It took me about 40 minutes including my trial-and-error. Using these directions, I think I could have done the whole thing in about 15-20 minutes.