NAV3335AWW Amana Washer - Instructions

Using nutdriver or screwdriver, remove metal panel from lower left side of back of washer to expose the pump. This is where the drain hose attaches to the washer. Use pliers to move the clamp off of the drain hose, then ease the hose off of the pump by wiggling it back and forth while pulling gently. Be careful to keep drain hose opening pointed upward until you can point it to a bucket, as there's likely to be quite a bit of water in it. Detach drain hose on other end as well (wiggling / pulling works well here; no clamp is used, so no pliers are required). Install new hose by reversing above steps.

I'm a 69 year old female. My husband isn't very handy so I decided to order the parts and do it myself. I didn't know how to take the machine apart so I just moved the washer part so I could unscrew the screw. I dropped the screwdriver between the adj. and side of the washer. I guess you won't be telling this story. I did get the parts on and the lid is working and so is the machine. Valerie Guyot

Pulled up the top of the washer and removed the lid hinge with a star tip screw driver. Realized that I also needed the hinge pins and had to reorder those. They should come as a kit.

I obtained the parts on line and began to install these. I was surprised that the ease of my installation was great. Each part was held by one screw. I used a phillips driver and found the under screws easy to get to by pushing the inside clothes drum to the side. A total of four screws was required for the replacement. This repair was so easy that a normal non-trained person can accomplish it. Thanks Admiral.

For this repair the tub must stay centered in the machine. I used a shim between the tub and front panel. Tilt the front of the washing maching aginst a wall and brace if needed. Remove the belt and pully. To remove the stator, I replaced 3 of the 6 bolts with a 2" long bolt of the same thread (replace every other bolt). This is needed because the spring is under 100# pressure. Remove the 3 original blots and than the 3 2" bolts. Remove each of these three a little at a time. Install the new stator and brake rotor. Use the 2" bolts in the stator to compress the spring. Reinstall the the other 3 bolts, pully, and belt.

Parts needed: Snubber Ring and 6 Springs (don't put the old springs back)
Unlug the AC cord, open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back It was not necessary to remove the back cover. Remove the little hose going to the basket from the control module. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING: DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK. Seriously! Install the new ring, center and tighten the screws. Put the tub back in. I found it handy to support the tub with a 2x3 to get the springs back in. Connect hoses back up. It really isn’t that bad, a couple of scraped knuckles.

Studing the numerous notes under the parts listing, help me determine which parts to purchase and replace. These listings also helped me to do the repair with much ease. Once the front and rear panels were removed, I detached the springs which came out very easily. I then pulled out the tub and removed the pulley and loosened the screws holding the snubber which then came out. Put in new snubber tightened screws, replaced pulley & put tub back in place. The springs were a little tougher which led me to believe the old ones were streched. I used a towel to brace tub to one side so as to attach spring on the low side. Used Vice Grip pliers and could not phathom using anything but. Put everything back together and washed a load of towels. The tub was way more stable, but still, towels were little damp. Respun and they dried. Determined that the repairs was all good but told wife not to put so many towels in at once which is probably why the snubber & springs wore out.

We had a repair guy come in and he said fixing the pump would cost at least 250. I called my dad and he walked me through it over the phone. I took off the back of the washer, and laid the washer on it's side. I then had to take a break as I had flooded my kitchen. (Lay the washer at an angle.) The belt was taken off by the repair guy. I then undid the hoses, taking the clips off with pliers. Next I screwed the new pump in, and put the hoses back on. FInally I took the belt and stretched over the two small pullies, and then pulled it to the bottom of the big pullie and started spinning it until it wrapped itself all the way around. It wouldn't have taken over an hour but I had a baby who needed me ever couple of minutes.

I took the washer into the garage, removed access panel from back. Spun drive belt. This located the trouble with the pump. I removed pump with three sheet metal screws and hose clamps. Upon delivery, I notice the two pumps were not identicle. I called Cust Serv. They assured the difference was ok. I installed the new pump with three screw, put the belt and panel and hoses on and ran a test load of my junk clothing. No trouble.

We replaced the valve in the washer that feeds the hot and cold water to the wash/rinse cycles. The replacement was not simple only because you have limited space to work in as the back of the machine does not come off other than a small door in the back or by removing the top. We elected to work in the small space but were able to replace the part within a short period of time and the washer is now working again.

Got it outside layed it on its side and replaced the motor and belt thinking motor got very hot and heated belt, it was worn from age so replaced it at the same time, hooked water hose up to cold side to test, worked great. Wife very happy

We followed the instructions show on the video. However, our model was assembled slightly different. We had to remove the screws from both sides of the side panels so that we could remove the tub from inside of the machine. Also our model only has one belt not two.
Over all it was easy considering my husband and I had never attempted to repair a washer. Once we got it back together it when back to working like it had never been broken!
We would have never been able to repair our washer without the video that your site provided... thanks so much!!??

Sure wish the manufactures would consider making the older models again as lots of us are not happy with the new modules being manufactured presently!

Top loader May Tag washer with open bottom. After research I presumed it needed a new belt, or Transmission, which runs 3 pulleys under the open bottom. After tipping the washer back for inspection, saw oil splatter underneath. Removed old belt by turning largest pulley on Transmission while pulling the belt "off" the edge. Belt was aged, Stretched and worn. Belt and all 3 pulleys were oily causing slippage. The main large Drive pulley on the Transmission shaft, has a plastic snap on grease cup at it's center. I snapped it off with screw driver. The cup was partially full of thinned old grease causing the oily mess. There's a C clip inserted in a groove on the end of the drive shaft holding the pulley on. Removed the C clip with screw driver tip and slid off the Drive pulley. The Center of the pulley contains a plastic ratchet assembly that operates the washer tub cycle to rotate and stop and repeat. The ratchet assembly falls right out, and in the end of transmission is a Thrust washer which can be pulled of easily also. I Cleaned all 3 pulleys with De-greaser and finally with Rubbing Alcohol to dry the pulley surfaces. Then cleaned and removed all grease from the plastic ratchet assembly parts and cleaned them. Then I Repacked everything including the Drive shaft with "heavier" Grease that would not break down so easy. Reassembled everything in reverse and installed on the shaft. Snapped the C clip back on to hold pulley back in place and then the Grease cup, which just snaps back in place with a push. Installed new drive belt in the same manner it was removed, only in reverse by turning the pulley, and pushing the belt "on" over the edge of the pulley. Problem fixed and washer works perfect again with Noticeably better operation through all washer cycles.

followed video instructions

I pretty much followed the video,and read some of the other comments on how to do it. I only had one problem, the back panel had an opening of about 14"x14" to access the 2 rear balance springs. I finally laid the machine on it's face,so I didn't have to kneel down.The only problem with that,is the tub falls forward, making the springs farther away from the upper hole to attach/stretch, the springs to remove/install. I cured that problem by cutting a wedge out of a piece of 2x4, and stuck it between the top edge of the tub & upper frame. Worked great,held the tub in position, closer to the springs & locating holes. Taking them off is no problem,installing them, was made easier by using the wedge. The parts were a perfect fit, no more 'walking away from the wall' now! Thanks PartSelect