NAH6800AWW Amana Washer - Instructions

My washer was leaking when i opened the front panel to check i found that the water was leaking from door boot which had gashes in it. the task was real easy. and took me 30 minutes to fix it, this was my first time repairing any appliance and i found real easy to do. here are the steps i took:
1. unscrew 2 door screws and the 2 screws opposite to them on the other side (on right if you are facing the washer)
2. take door out by lifting it slightly and then pulling it out.
3. hold front panel from both sides and then push in and twist outward this willl diengage front panel from the hooks on side.
4. tilt front panel towards you about 40 deg. adn pull it up.
5. to take top out, first remove all 4 screws from soap dispenser and take the dispenser out (just pull up after unscrewing)
6. unscrew the electrical unit (where bulb is) in front top by taking out the 2 nuts Note: you must take out left most socket/coupler by pulling it before unscrewing the left nut that will give space for your wrench.
7. In the front corner the Top is bolted to side frame bars you will have to look under top corner and you will see 1 nut on each side, unscrew those nuts and the lift the top ( if you have enough space (about a foot) behind the washer the Top ca n actually go all the way back and rest on wall.)
8. from top view you will see a spring and metal wire system holding your boot, notice the spring position, spring has 2 hooks on each side, with needle nose pliers pull on the spring hook and have someone else disengage wire from spring hook. ( when it is time to put the wire back on the new boot just follow the same thing)
9. once wire is out take the boot out by pulling it from all directions. note: you may still have water in the washer system so before you take the boot out be ready with a bucket to catch it write under the boot plug.
10. your boot is still connected to washer withe the plug at the bottom. with help from needle plier press on clamp and pull plug out. note: if you see water flowing out from drain pipe (where the boot plug goes in try to keep it up to lwer the level of water that will stop the water flowing out (i took help from my 6 year old daughter for this job) now your old boot is out, trash it.:)
11. put the new boot the lip of drum and put the wire back on (again i enlisted my wife and my daughter to keep the wire in place, you cannot do it alone. with 3 of us putting wire was a breeze. put the spring back at the exact same place and with exact orientation.
Note: when you start to put wire and new boot on washer drum lip make sure the tiny cuts/slots on the boot slip into the the notches on washer lip other you will have leak from these spaces.
12.now rest is all easy. attach the drain plug back on and then push the tabs of boot into the frontto secure it.
13. put all the thing that you took out in the same order all the way to door and you are ready to go
NOTE: i did not front panel back on for couple of days to make sure there i no other leak and also to make sue that boot is not leaking.

have fun

The Neptune stacked washer/dryer maintenance manual was a must-have for this repair.

The washer's sound during spin cycle had changed over time from a jet-engine whine to a low rumble. Inspection from the rear revealed that the seals between the spinner and outer tub had failed, and the bearings had been damaged by water intrusion. The bearings are not a replacement item. They are installed as part of the outer tub assembly, so the whole outer tub must be replaced. This requires almost complete disassembly of the washing machine.

The disassembly was relatively easy with the maintenance manual in hand. I had to use a gear puller to remove the pulley, though. I decided to replace not only the outer tub, but the spinner shaft as well since I believed the shaft may have been damaged when the bearings failed.

Reassembly was not so easy. I installed the outer tub, then wrestled with the heavy counterweights. The lower weight was particularly unwieldy, since I had support it from below while attaching it to the bottom of the tub. I finally used books of different thicknesses to hold the weight in place while locating the screw holes for attachment. The upper weight attached easily after I wrestled it into position. This is a concrete weight of about 25 lbs, I would guess.

The other problem was attaching the outer tub cover with the rubber boot attached. It is held by 12 clips, and it was difficult to seat the cover tight enough to attach the clips. I started at the bottom and worked around, instaling clips as I went. The last 4 clips were the hardest; I had to cinch up the cover with C-clamps before installing the clips.

The rest of the assembly was not difficult.

I had my wife help locate the new tub on the struts in the back and to help support the motor while I hung it on the outer tub. Otherwise, this is a one-man repair.

Total cost around $350, thanks to Partselect.com reasonable prices. I shopped around and they offered the best price snd excellent service.

I spent about 8 hours on this job.

First- I unplugged and completely drained machine of water by putting hose at ground level near drain . Second- removed back plate to washer saving all hardware. Third- disconnected in and out hose to pump. Twisted pump gently as to pop it out of slots in bottom of machine. Fourth- disconnected wires to old pump hooked to new pump replaced pump, replaced hoses- tested machine then replaced back plate of machine. Done.

Apparently the only way to solve the notorious mold problem on the rubber gasket of the Maytag Neptune front-loading washer is by replacing the door gasket. I ordered the boot kit from you and my husband attempted to do the job without the benefit of an instruction sheet, but I was finally forced to download the repair manual from the Maytag website. Using a screwdriver to remove the the front door, the detergent dispenser, and the shroud, he was able to remove the old gasket, though stretching the spring that held the gasket in place required some strength. The only tricky part was stretching the spring again that holds the replacement gasket in place. With a little ingenuity, a screwdriver (and some dishwashing liquid to make the task a little easier) he finally accomplished it. It took him over 3 hours, but the job is done and the washer seems to be working fine. Your service was fast and efficient and I wouldn't hesitate using your service again, but enclosing a detailed instruction sheet would have been helpful. Now that he knows how to do the job he acknowledges that the it shouldn't take him more than an hour the next time, should the gasket need replacement again. Meanwhile I am going to try tackling the mold problem by leaving the front door open after wiping out the water that remains on the door gasket after each wash.

Unplugged power cord, turned off water and disconnected cold and hot water lines. Removed two screws on bracket at water inlet area on back of washer. removed loose bracket and removed one screw that held water control valve (hot and cold). Unplugged four clipon electrical connections (marked before removal for ease of reconnection) Used flat tip screwdriver to remove hose clip from hose that went from valve into machine. Connected four clip on electrical connections and reconnected intake washer hose to water valve. I put a tiny bit of plumbers grease on plastic valve nipple to make it easier to push nipple into rubber hose. Reattached one screw to anchor valve to metal bracket. Repositioned bracket and attached two screws that anchored it to the washer. Reconnected hot and cold water lines and turned on hot and cold water to check for leaks. Plugged in power cord and started a wash cycle to once again check for leaks before pushing machine back into place. Wife didn't think I was "talented" enough to fix the washer, but I proved her wrong.

Opened the back panel of the washing machine. Removed the old belt and wrote down the part number. Shopped online for a suitable replacement and found a perfect match at part select.com. I put in an order and it was delivered in a couple of days! I opened the back panel of the washing machinie again. This time I decided to also replace the isolators that came with the kit. For this, I had to unscrew the motor and gently tug it free. I placed it on the floor of the washing machine. I then replaced the 2 isolators as described in the kit, reinstalled the motor and put the screw back on. I then proceeded to place the belt on the motor and on to the wheel. This took couple of tries to get the grooves right. I then tested the washing machine on a rinse cycle and things looked good. Its been working fine so far.

Pre-ordered the spinner support & seal kit, searched online and found a repair manual, disassembled machine according to the manual, removed snap ring outside of rear bearing, used hammer and drift punch to remove bearings, went to local bearing supply store and purchased 1-6206 2RSJEM and 1-6207 2RSJEM for a total of $43. Used needle scaler to remove the ~1/8th inch of scale from inside of the outer drum and outside of the inner drum and other parts encrusted with scale. Installed new bearings and the seals and new spinner and reassembled the rest of the washer. Now we can't hear it when it spins!

This kit came with instructions. I followed them closely. The only thing I could add is clean the tub spindle with steelwool to remove any debris or rust. then wipe down spindle to remove all steelwool particles and follow instructions to reassamble.

I followed the other instructions provided by your toher users. Basically I reomved the 4 face screws secruing the front pannel assembley and the door hinges as described with a philips head screw driver. Removal of the door was easily accomplished once you played witht he hinges to slide them upward slightly to clear the lips. The soap dispenser was then loosened by removing the 4 corner screws. Take care not to completely remove the soap dish. It simply needs to be moved aside with the flexible hoses still attached. This is accomplished once the top lid is hinged upward out of the way. The face panel can then be removed and set asside ater removing the screws holding it in place. Remove the damaged boot with the anterior face (door side)first. It simply gets pulled away from the sealing flanges. With the top lid removed you should have direct visualization and access to the retaining cable and the spring tensioner. I found that neither of the previously described methods of taking the tension with pliers or having an assistant were particularly helpful. Under the soap dispenser you will notice a hole in the top lip of the side frame. I attached a piece of rope to this hole using a small snap link. The other end of the rope had an "s" link set into the middle of the rope and the other end hooked over the spring hook. Now puliing back on the loose end of the rope back towards the attachment point creates a mechanical advantage easing the spring open and then using pliers you can easily remove the retaining cable. Ease off the spring and then set aside. The posterior portion of the door boot can now be removed and the old piece discarded. Take care to disconnect the drain plug at the bottom first. Replacing the boot was fairly straighforward. I attached the posterio portion first taking care to align the indentions were appropriate. Once is was attached and aligned, use the rope assembly once again to draw tension on the spring in a controlled fashion. Hold the other end of the cable with some needle nose pliers and slip over the spring hook once enough tension is applied. This method only took me one try and the mechanical advantage created was very effective. I then turned my attention to the anterior portion of the boot and pushed it into the flanges. I also found the the required pressure was a bit stiff and your fingers will get tired quickly. Use a smooth stick or a spatula particularly underneath the door latch assembly since space is tight and you will not be able to get your fingers underneath it. Put the face palte back in place and reattach the screws. Put the soap dispenser assembly back in place and hinge the lip back into place. Reattach the screws for the soap dispenser and lid. Reattach the door and test everything for any leaks. It was not very diificult at all and it took roughly 30-45 minutes. Read all of the other stories as well to help get an overal flavor for the job beforehand.

We took off the fornt and back of the machine and pulled out the outer tub...then pulled the rear and the front bearings...and the sleeve between...and the support arm...We had only thought we would replace the bearings, but there is a seal in the hub of the support arm that often goes wrong and causes the bearing problem...That appeared to be the case in this fix...so we are glad we chose to replace the arm too. Then we reassembled in reverse order and voila! The machine is as quiet as can be!

Roll washer out of drain pan on section of 3" PVC pipe. Unplug washer & disconnect hoses. Remove rear access panel with nutdriver. Disconnect wiring harness from pump. Disconnect hoses from pump using screwdriver and pliers. Twist pump counter-clockwise to separate from bottom of washer housing. Transfer electronic component from old to new pump. Install new pump in reverse order as above.

*** MY REPAIR STORY ***

*** Rule #1: READ THE OTHER STORIES FIRST! ***

The best tip was supplied by the guy that used a piece of good twine/string to help him reconnect the inner seal cable and spring assembly; the whole business of using a buddy to do so is a lot of hooey. Save yourself the aggravation of using your wife, kid or other mechanically-declined individual, and use the string trick. It is still a royal pain, but it is far superior with only one person, using the unbeatable mechanical advantage that the string gives you. I used a piece of good waxed poly twine; I tied it to a convenient hole near the front right side corner of the machine, and then threaded it throught the spring and pulled it with some good pliers in order to stretch the spring enough to re-engage the other loop of the inner seal cable, using needle nose pliers. Of course, it took about four shots to get it right, but I was particularly anal about getting the cable ends in their originally-installed orientation. In retrospect, it ought not make too much of a difference, as long as you keep the spring near the top of the drum and respect the placement of the cable: make sure it is fully in its recess in the seal, all the way 'round. Additionally, pay close attention to the drain hose attachment and outer seal installation; you don't want any more leaks. I have strong fingers so it was a snap, and there are both molded recesses, arrows and "tits" along the seal edges that correspond to the outline of the machine's mating surfaces. Please take the time to push in all the lugs all the way all around in all positions; your floor's dryness is depending on you. As far as the inner seal cable/spring situation goes, be aware that any slight failure to get it right will likely cause a "domino effect" that will necessitate that you to reinstall the seal along its entire periphery, on both inner and outer sides... hold onto that cable, and watch as you tension the spring... it will cause the inner seal to walk off the drum if you aren't paying attention, and you will not be able to recover the perfect position you had at first. In honesty, that is the only "difficult" part of the job. Ensure you've had ample food & drink before you undertake seal replacement ( and not alcoholic drink, either... ) !

As with all jobs of this type, the end was far better than the beginning... the machine doesn't spew water out onto the floor anymore, and helped reinforce my claim to the "most useful" Family Member status! lol My wife was nice to me for almost a week afterwards... your mileage may vary.

PartSelect.com, thank you so much for not only the right part at the right price delivered fast, but also the forum where others could report their repair experiences in order to give a good heads up to those contemplating this repair job. Super site, super business, would definitely use again. A+

Regards,

Glenn Buononato

First, I removed the drum. Removed the spinner support. Removed old seals. Reinstalled new spinner support. Reinstalled pulley and belt. Reinstalled drum. Reinstalled machine covers.

Starting out I found the code that the washer was showing,ND, Meaning no drain so I read up on and people where saying that the pump had a blockage in it, so I took the back of the washer to gain acess to the pump, I took the drain hose off to look in side to see if there was a problem there was nothing in the pump itself so I started to remove the pump I undid the wiring harness to find the problem, the red wire to the pump had burned in the harness order the part from part select and 30 minutes later my wife was doing laundry again..........Thanks partselect for the fast shipping and quality parts very easy repair.

Unpluged washer. Removed screws from front and removed door. Removed one more screw on each side and was able to remove front panel, and also lift the top. The boot seal was held in place with a wire and a spring. I unhooked the spring and removed the wire and then removed the old boot seal. I then proceeded to reverse the steps to put it all back together. It took me almost 4 hours. I also used the picture on your web sight to see how things were put together. It really helped a lot.