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Light bulb was out
It was a bit awkward because the microwave is mounted over my stove. I had to twist around and install the bulb and then replace the cover. It was a bit uncomfortable. It took me about 10 minutes to complete.
Piece of cake. One screw to release the dropdown light diffuser. Just remember, the you're screwing the new bulb in from a reverse perspective. Also this site sends the correct part the first time.
Removed case, Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan. Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor. Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.
Really easy for a 75-year old female; just spent more time reading the online manual than actually installing the light bulbs to find out where to access the light bulbs.
We needed a phillips head screw driver to remove the single screw holding the light bulb cover in place. Removing the old bulbs was a little work, because they had come loose from the sockets. We unplugged the microwave, so we could grip the sockets with a tool. I think my husband used a needle nose plier for this. The new bulbs screwed in easily, and then we refastened the light bulb cover with the phillips head screw driver.
removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).
I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."
After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).
To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.
Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.
BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).
The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.
One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).
Watched a you tube video prior to installing new switch. Followed the video which gave me confidence i was up to the task. After removing the touch pad I found my design was not exactly like the you tube model but I found the defective switch, replaced it and put the microwave back together. Works great. Again watch the videos
Unplug the microwave. Then remove the six screws that hold the lower panel which has the light bulb cover and a couple of vent filters. The light bulb sockets are on a fixture that is connected by a quick connect electrical connector. Disconnect that and the whole panel is free to access the bulbs. My bulbs were very fragile and trying to twist them out resulted in the glass twisitng loose with the base still in the sockets. I needed to use a needle nose pliers to remove the bases and then I replaced the bulbs and put every thing back together