MGR4452BDB Maytag Range - Instructions

UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!

Open oven door about 8 inches, the door will stay the that position. Remove the 3 screws in the top of the door. Carefully pull the top section up and out enough to move the angle pieces on right and left sides of door to the side slightly. Pull the top section up slightly and remove the front glass panel. You can remove the brackets(2 screws each) that hold the handle and top door section. The handle is held to the brackets by 1 screw, remove these screws and the handle is free. If you don't have the replacement handle yet you can put the glass, side angles, and top section without the brackets and use the oven. Reverse the process with the new part.

Shut off power, pulled oven out, shut off gas, removed racks and bottom cover. Two bolts held the igniter on, remove those and feed the electrical connector plug through the back of the oven and replace igniter. Be sure the bolts are not too rusty as one if them sheared off and I had use a pair of side cutters to hold the screw while I removed the broken section of the screw.

I think the installation instructions are fairly self explanatory. This is the second item I've ordered from Parts Select and I'm thrilled with their service. The items are always less expensive than other sites and they deliver what they promise. I would highly recommend them.

Popped in there real quick. Wish I would have done it sooner, my oven heats up much faster.

I called the yellow pages repair man and he quoted me $450 to replace the igniter. I did it myself for $63 and it took 10 minuet's. I'm gonna get a T shirt that says "Mr Fix It" Next is the refrigerator door gaskets! Someone from part select had mentioned that to take the door off the oven you "just open the door a little and lift it off". that was a helpful hint because I would have been looking for screws for half a day!

Removed stove from slot in wall. Bent rear left leg would not unscrew due to bent metal bracket. Used hacksaw to cut out leg, then straightened metal bracket with small hammer and was able to screw new leg in and adjust height by using level on stove before reinserting stove its slot. Recheck level after pushing back in place and adjust front legs if necessary. If not for bent metal receiving bracket, would have taken much less time. Still easy tho. R'cvd part in two days. Very quick.

Removed old igniter. Porcelain was broken. Replaced with new igniters. Really simple to do. Took 10 minutes to replace all 4

The oven door is covered with a stainless finish. Open the oven door and you will see screw heads that attach it to the door structure. Remove these 4 screws and the cover will lean forward, exposing the handle mount screws from the back side. Be careful to not let the stainless cover open too far or you may crinkle the metal on the lower front surface. Remove the two mounting screws and flat washers from the back side of the cover and install new handle by reversing this order. In my case, the plastic insert had broken of, so you may have to use a pliers to hold it in place while you remove the screw. I am an aircraft mechanic, so it took me about 5 minutes.

Removing the oven door by partly opening it and pulling it up out of the hinge made access to the igniter much easier. Access to the igniter was easy. Just remove the baking shelves and lift out the bottom panel. I removed the two screws holding the old igniter. One screw was difficult to remove because of oxidation, and required some tinkering as the threads were stripped. But once the screws were removed, the igniter was easy to replace and connect to the gas controller with a simple plugin connection.

took oven door off, took oven racks out, removed heat sheild, took 2 nuts off ignitor, removed ignitor, gently pulled ignitor wire out from back of oven, unclipped wire, clipped new ignitor to wire harness, replaced nuts to install new ignitor, replaced heat shield. replaced oven racks, replaced oven door, tested to make sure oven lite, took about 10 minutes!!

I replaced the igniter.

Unplugged the oven from electricity. Took off the bottom(Floor) of the inside of the oven. Checked that the new part looked the same as the old. It did. Then I checked the back of the oven, had to take off a cover, and the connector in the back was not the same. I did not that it had the same two wires so rather than send it back, I figured I could make it work. I started to take off the old piece by unscrewing the two screws. They were a bit rusted, one came off the other I had to hacksaw and twist off. I cut the old connecting end off of the old part and the end off of the new part stripped the cover off the ends of the wires, and put the old end to the new part, having also put the old wire covers over the new wires. then twisted the end together and wrapped the in electrical tape. I had to take the piece that held the new part out of the oven the tried to use the one semi-good old screw, then some newer screws, then finally used some new nuts and bolts to connect the part tightly. put everything back together and it worked.

First, I called Sears who wanted $440.00 to send a tech out to repair the stove. Second, I visited various web sites to find out what the problem was. I watched a brief video on Part Select which showed the repair of the stove. I then checked other parts stores on the web and selected Part Select based on price and video. Installation was very easy just as the video showed. Stove was repaired in less than 30 minutes.

watched video provided when ordered part; follow the steps, easy as pie