MGR4452BDB Maytag Range - Instructions

My first suggestion, after turning off the power to the unit, is to take the oven door off. Two simple screws and it's off! It makes getting to the temperature sensor much easier. I also moved the oven out so I could get access to the back to remove the rear panel. The ordered part came with two pigtails, neither of which fit my oven wiring harness. I cut one of them and the wiring from the faulty sensor, spliced them together with wire nuts and made my own connection harness. The new sensor went in with little effort. The wiring went together flawlessly with the spliced connection protected between the oven cavity and rear panel. Reattached the rear panel and the oven door, then slid the oven back into place. Turned on the electricity and back to normal! Problem resolved!!

First I took the door off and outside to dump the glass in the trash which I had some Kevlar gloves so not to get cut. Removed the three screws on the bottom trim piece and the two on the sides remove the outside face glass next remove the four screws that hold the next glass. This glass is in a frame there is bent tab on one corner unbend open frame and install inner glass close frame rebend tab and reinstall all the parts.

Watched a video on replacing igniter. Removed old igniter and replaced it with new igniter.

finished removing door seal, used pliers to remove old securing studs. positioned new seal and pushed securing studs into existing holes and was done.

Removed oven bottom. 2 screws and igniter was removed. 1 screw for back panel unplugged igniter.

removed rear cover where the spark module was and change it

Removing and replacing the gasket was very simple. Just pull off the old and press the new gasket into place using the attached clips. The door handle was a little more involved. I found a video on YouTube that walked me through the procedure from removing the oven door to taking the door apart then replacing the handle and putting the door back together and reattaching it to the oven. I am a grandma in my 60s and did the job all by myself! If I can do it, anyone who can follow directions can do it!

My wife watched the instruction video on the computer and replaced the oven sensor with a screwdriver in just a few minutes with no problems. Just make sure you order the right sensor. She ordered the short one by mistake and had to return it and order the Long Oven Sensor.

I removed the broken hinge and installed the new one, however the oven door didn't stay ajar but dropped open fast. So I took the old spring and installed it on the new hinge and it was improved. It just took a screwdriver.

Used strap wrench to turn out. Rust build up under the burner. Used flat screwdriver to loosen under burner and strap wrench to turn out. Then replaceing the igniter was very easy.

I have worked in maintenance field most of my adult life and all aspects and to change the oven door gasket was no challenge what so ever. It took longer to find my needle nose pliers to remove the old gasket clips and then re-install the new gasket. Maybe 10 minutes total

used screwdriver to replace oven igniter , we are planning to buy a new oven in the future , now we can buy it when I can better afford it. Thank you for you help I'll be back.

First off...there are 2 possible oven igniters for this model, and you must determine which one you have. Remove racks from oven.Remove oven door. There are 2 latches(tabs) on the oven side of the hinge.Pull these forward and down. Close the door approx. half way and it will lift straight up. Carefully lay the door aside.There are 2 Phillips head screws at the rear of the pan. They are steel, and may be rusted in place. I used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut a slot in the top of the screw. Then I used a straight blade screwdriver with a pair of pliers on the shaft to assist removing the screws.The oven pan lifts up at the rear to remove.Use a nut driver to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter. Mine were stripped.They use a machine thread in light gauge sheet metal. Then use an air ratchet to put them in. Take a trip to the big box store and get some short stainless sheet metal screws to replace the damaged screws.Pull the wire through the insulation, unplug the old igniter and plug the new one in. Fish the plug and wire back through the insulation. Attach the new igniter with the new screws. Replace the pan with new screws, and reverse the procedure to install the door. Even with the purchase of the Dremel, you will still save a chunk of cash, and you get a tool for the arsenal. It's rare when you don't encounter some problems, with any job. The secret is not burying yourself with more problems you create.

took the top oven door off because you need to reach back to take off the igniter it take a 1/4 inch socket to do this only 2 bolts or screws then slide to stove out a bit to reach the plug in the back of stove its a clip type plug in it don't matter it plugs one way cant get it wrong that it put the new on but slide the plug through the hole in the back of the oven first then bolt it back and your put the clip on in the back of the stove. turn it on. mind came on fast and that is what you want it to do your done. this repair is in the bottom in the broiler area might need a flashlight to see with.

UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!