MGC5430ADQ Maytag Cooktop - Instructions

1. Apply gas pipe joint sealer to treaded nipple on bottom of cooktop; 2. Install regulator on nipple with regulator direction arrow pointing to top of cooktop; 3. Tighten but do not overtighten as it may crack the aluminum body regulator; 4. Make sure the face of the regulator with the green painted surface faces the outside of the cabinet; 5. Get a new gas flex hose to connect to gas pipe (got mine at Lowe's - 2 feet long with all the right fittings for about $15). 6. Follow instructions on gas flex hose - make sure you use gas pipe joint sealer only where indicated; 7. Turn gas shutoff valve back on and test for leaks using soapy water; 8. Turn on each cooktop burner to bleed out air.

Just pushed the new grommet into the hole. The grommet fit just fine and took about 10 seconds to install.

Watched a video on replacing igniter. Removed old igniter and replaced it with new igniter.

twist old burner and lift out disconnect two wires throw away gasket (if there is one left) connect two wires to new burner set in and twist till tight total time 45 seconds

removed rear cover where the spark module was and change it

Used strap wrench to turn out. Rust build up under the burner. Used flat screwdriver to loosen under burner and strap wrench to turn out. Then replaceing the igniter was very easy.

use the pliers. to get. the remaining half off and the screwdriver to cleen the rest of the rust off

As the video said, twist burner to the counterclockwise 1/8 turn. Lift the burner straight up. Disconnect the two wires. Remove the burner and reconnect the wires ( they only go one way so they cannot be connected backwards.) Place the burner over the gas fitting and turn the burner clockwise until snug. I turned the power off at the circuit breaker box. The video was extremely helpful.

pull wire off of spark electrode unscrew old burner. screw on new burner attach wire to new spark electrode.

Simply twisted to remove from range top, slipped off igniter wires, attached to new burner, and twisted back into place on range top. Works great,

UNPLUG THE POWER CORD! This particular model is a (slide-in) unit, it was wedged between to fixed cupboards/cabinets. Therefore, there are really no side panels to speak of, this made the repair slightly easier. I simply slid the unit out enough to unplug the power cord and access the right side of the unit. All one needs, at this point, is a Phillips head screw driver to remove a small metal panel installed just below the stove top panel (right side of range), its held with approx. 8 screws. There is one other panel that must be removed as well, (you may want to remove this panel first). It is an enameled-like panel approx. 5" wide x 36" long located at the front of the range (right side) running the length/height of the range (held with 2 screws). Get those 2 panels removed and you will see the spark module attached near center of range just under stove-top panel. Module is attached to a small metal bracket, module has 6 wires attached to it (2 feeding the module and 4 exiting the module to the burners). Bracket screws are nearly impossible to get at (you need a very stubby Phillips screw driver, if you can even get your hand in there). Anyway, I simply released the module from the bracket, then carefully bent the bracket back toward me; to provide work area for my hands. The bracket bends easily and really can't be broken. Now, at this point (using longer needle-nose pliers) detach the wires from the old module (remembering each wires location) or, as I did, hold the replacement module near the existing module and transfer the wires one at a time. Now, slap it all back together as you took it apart. Really simple job, total time is easily/generally under 30 minutes. It may be easier to access the module by removing all the burner components and raising the stove-top? Not sure? I chose not to do the repair that way. Hard part was locating where the manufacturer hid the module on the range. :- ) D.I.Y.ers Rock!!!

The new grommets were NOT the correct parts, too big, so there was no repair.