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Replacement of bad switch
I marked all wires separately attaching a paper strip with tape to each connector and made a separate small chart where each wire should attach to the bottom of the switch. On this particular model there are three or four colored wires and two have both double and single connections to the same switch so the small chart told me where a single or double connector would attach even if I lost the attached taped information. Then since wires were marked separately, even if paper was lost I could still proceed with no outside help. I had the luxury of leaving the breaker shut off while waiting for part to arrive. After arrival which was only a couple of days, I raised the stove top and let it rest on a small board maybe 1.5 feet so it would keep itself up. The under assembly was already taken loose before so I just removed the broken switch taking all wires loose, which are already marked and replaced the switch with the new one. Gently placing each wire at its place after removing the tape for that connection. After all four wires were connected I held the switch up in place while screwing the two set screws into place. Then reattached the bottom assembly cover and then let the top down and reattached the four screws, one in each stove hole to attach the stove top to the under assembly. I then reattached one element and flipped the breaker switch on. No sound or problems so I tried the element and all is well. Reattached all elements and the project is done. PartSelect.com made this repair easy and economical. Replacement would have been 4x the part and shipping. Thanks.
PULLED THE POWER CORD!! Loosened a couple of screws holding the element to the rear oven wall, removed the electrical wires (red on left, yellow on right) attached to the baking element, removed old element, inserted new element and reattached the wires respectively thereto. One minor glitch did occur. The RED wire inadvertently slipped back through the hole into the insulation and was not retrievable. I removed the small metal plate housing the wires on the back bottom of the stove, pushed the red wire (plentiful length) back into the oven, reinstalled the plate, connected the red wire to the bake element, reconnected the power, element began to heat. Mission accomplished. One caution: Pay attention to the SHAPE of the failed element before ordering online or buying in person.
Bent Bottom Oven Door Cosmetic Front Glass Support
1. Lift the Oven Door off of the 2 stove hinge mechanisms. 2. Remove the screws holding the bottom Glass Support Bracket. 3. Slide the Support Bracket out from under the oven door side bracket tangs and off the cosmetic front glass. 4. Slide the glass out of the top bracket and thoroughly clean both sides of the glass with glass cleaner and wipe with paper towels. 5. Slide the new Glass Support Bracket onto the bottom of the glass, slide the glass back into the oven door top bracket, and slide the new bracket under the oven door side bracket tangs. 6. Reinstall the screws, and then slide the oven door back onto the 2 hinge mechanisms on the stove.
I took the oven door apart, pulled out the broken fragments of glass and replaced it with the new glass. I should have taken notes as I took the door apart because it was a bit tricky to remember how all the pieces fit back together.
I was very impressed with how quickly the parts were shipped and the quality of the packing materials to protect the glass as it was shipped.
Oven would stop heating after a few minutes of operation
Heat escaping from the top of the over door would overheat the electronics and cause the system to show error codes F1 and F3-1. Error code F3-1 suggests that the oven temperature sensor was bad. I replaced the sensor but that did not stop the problem. Replacing the oven door gasket stop the heat leak and solved the problem. I simply pull the old gasket off the door (it stuck a bit at the bottom but a pair of pliers solved that problem, then push the new gasket into place without any tools. The old gasket was very hard and non-complient where food had spilled on it and baked hard.
I looked it over and decided what i needed to have for parts .I ordered the new door handle from part select.com and within a reasonable time i received the part in the mail ...I lifted the door out of its place took the screws out put the handle in and buttoned it up ...The replacement part was as good as a new one would be...It took a matter of less than 30 minutes total... thanks for your service...
The much used, upper oven heating element burned out and needed to be replaced.
I pulled the range out, unplugged it and removed the back panel with a Phillips-head screwdriver. I then removed the two screws inside the oven that holds the element in place. I located the two wires on the back of the range attached to the element. I gently pulled off the wires using a pliers and then easily removed the burned out element. I put the ends of the replacement element into the respective holes, screwed them in and then plugged the wires back on at the back of the range. After replacing the back panel, I plugged the range back in. I turned the oven on with an oven thermometer inside, to test it out. I imagine I saved at least a couple of hundred dollars for the repair with this simple DIY, if not, the cost of a new double oven range!
Repair was very simple. Took the door apart in layers, replaced the glass and put everything else back. it took longer to clean the stove than it did to actually take it apart and put it back together. guess i didnt need to be that much of a clean freak!
The plastic attachment on the oven door handle broke on one side, and of course the whole handle had to be replaced. I attempted first to super-glue the broken piece, but naturally, that didn't work. I found the necessary piece very easily thru PartSelect.com's web page, and had the replacement piece within a couple days. The most difficult part of the whole operation was figuring out how to remove the old handle. Once that was done, the replacement took approximately 15 minutes. Thanks PartSelect.
not to offend anybody but what i learned on prior posts helped alot.. 1. remove unit and unplug. 2. remove door by opening to 45 degree angle and lifting door face towards you. 3. remove back panel to unit.e. 4.unscrew burner element from back inside of oven. 5.gently pry clip off each off burner element from rear of unit. Pull gently towards you. 6.unscrew support from inside oven. 7. remove old element and just reverse directions to reinstall.
Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sleeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm. Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch. Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.
It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.
I viewed the YTube Video that showed exactly how to remove the door and all the other parts for replacement. Excellent video shows and explains how to remove, replace, and re-attach the handle and the door.