MER5770AAW Maytag Range - Instructions

Powered off circuit at breaker switch, removed oven door (slide-in), unscrewed two Phillips head screws holding old element, unplugged old element, plugged in new element, screwed in new element, replaced oven door and turned-on circuit. Total repair time: 8 minutes. Total time procrastinating repair: 1 week. Happy Wife: Priceless.

Turn off power 220v, opened cook top, remove old 8" switch and replace with one of the new switch ps2089438. However, I have another cook top, it is a 6" heating element. Can I use the same switch for 8" and use on a 6" heating element? Since I order 2 new ps2089438 switches. Thank you for your anwser. Kahn lee

Turned off breaker,opened door with bent coat hanger by sliding right to left the coat hanger to open the door, remover 2 screws holding in the sensor in upper left corner of the oven. Remove the sensor (gently) with the wire connection from back of oven pulling sensor out a out 8 inches . Disconnect plug. Install new sensor with matched harness /.connection, installed 2 screws ,turned on breaker.

used screw driver to remove two screws gently pulled element out to expose wires. Removed wires from old element replaced wires on new element gently pushed element in to place replaced screws. Job done very easy.

Pulled stove out to unplug. Removed screws holding end covers then remove screws on the underside of cover as you face the stove top.Remove knobs.Pull bottom cover forward and up so you can lift it off to see the insides.Remove wires and attach to the new part one at a time. Unscrew old from the front and attach the new one.Put it back together.Done.

simply took off smooth surface top flipped it upsde down on a towel. unbolted the entire burner assembly. matched connections with the new burner with limit switch. replaced smooth surface top plugged it in. no problems. extremely easy fix no repair charges.

The repairs was really easy. All you had to do was remove the screws holding the glass top surface down, raise it up, then start by pulling one wire at the time and plugging it into the new element. Then bolt the glass top surface down and it was ready to use, good as new.

I replaced the oven sensor which was easy to replace. A pigtail wire was provided with the sensor which is intended to be installed first so you don't have to reach around the front and back of the oven at the same time. The replacement was easy. However, that turned out not to be the problem. The real problem was the maytag electronic clock control timer, temperature control unit. The part number is 7601P177-60. This device has been discontinued and I was fortunate enough to find the part at a local supplier. Once I replaced this, the problem went away. The oven heats up normally. My original symptom was that when setting the oven temperature to something like 350 degrees, the display would rapidly report heating up the oven to that temperature, and the oven was only mildly warm. If you have that symptom, it is probably not the oven sensor. It is the electronic clock unit. Hope you can find one. If you can't, I think you need to by a new oven. Regards

Pulled stove out from counter. Unplugged power cord. Took out the two racks. Unscrewed two screws with a Phillips head screwdriver. Pulled out element and disconnected wires and reinstalled new element in reverse order. Plugged back in and replaced stove back in counter and put racks back in. Took a Pizza out of freezer and cooked at 400 for twenty minutes and drank a ginger ale. Install took less than 20 minutes.

unplugged the oven; screwed out the element from the inside and replaced it with the new one.

The feedback from other customers was excellent. It does come apart in layers, and it helped me to number each layer with a sticky note as I dismantled it. I also kept the screws for each layer right next to the layer, so that I knew how many screws each layer used. The only thing I can add is that the tabs to remove the innermost glass from the frame are on one of the shorter sides of the rectangular frame. The tabs are part of the frame, and when you bend them outward the side of the frame detaches and you can replace the glass easily. In addition to the #1 Philips screwdriver, all I needed was a pair of pliers to bend the tabs.

Screws had to be removed where the two ends of the old element are attached to the back of the oven. The wires can then be pulled out 2 or 3 inches into the oven and the connecters which are attached to the wires can be pulled off from the ends of the old element using pliers. Push the connecters onto the ends of the new element and push the wires through the back of the oven and replace the screws. I found it easier to remove the oven door for easier access.

Assembly took a little while, but that had to do with the stove, not with the element you provided. Turned it on and it looks like it's working well. (It's been so hot I haven't cooked since putting the new one in, so we'll see how that goes. But, when tested, it heated right up).

killed power...removed back of stove...removed switch and replaced it..reinstalled back...powered up

Removed two screws holding oven sensor in place. Haad to remove part of the back to access wires. Found existing wires had burnt up, and had to reterminate same. Installed new sensor, making sure the leads did not come in contact with the rear of oven compartment. (This may have been what caused failure to begin with)