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oven door inner glass pane broke
removed oven door, removed screws from bottom and sided, door is in layers, removed door layers like taking apart a sanwhich layer by layer, once i got to the inner layer i just had to bend out the little tab on the frame,remove the broken pane and place in the new one, bend the tab back and then put the door back together layer by layer, it was very easy and saved me money, and frustration in dealing with a repair man from a well known company who tried to tell me I needed to replace the whole door as the glass was factory sealed in the door, WELL! this girl's hair may be blonde but not that blonde, I received the glass the very next day, and it took me 40 minutes tops to replace the glass, EASY! KC
I looked how it came out pretty easy, check how your connections are on the unitase you unplug them. Ordered new part from patrs select. the new came in. Make sure you look at the location on the problem part of the tabs on back because it is important on the reinstall of the element ( it is easy it is numbered like a clock) plug in the wires and your ready to go.
A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor. Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.
Found same problem on this Website. Ordered the part, read the two installation instructions. Step 1. disconnect stove. Step 2. remove two screws holding stove top (located inside oven door, on both corners. Step 3. Lift stove top, remove screws on burner (be careful, if a screw drops it can be fun finding it)I know))I removed the outside screws, this wasy you can replace the brackets one by one on the new burner, they are numbered around the outside. Step 4. I remove the electrical connectors one at a time, then installing each one on the new burner. Step 5. Install new burner. Step 6. Replace the two top screws. Step 7. Reconnect stove. Made my wife happy and she loves to cook.
the 2500 watts element-surf was opened (wasn't heating)
1 Turn the circuit breaker that feds power to the range/stove off 2 Opened the oven door and found two screws that hold the top part of the range. I removed the screws and disconnected the green cable (ground) so I could have access to the Element-surt 3 Disconnected the four wires that connects the Element and removed the braket that holds it. 4 Replaced the new element, connected the wires and attached the braket. 5 Connected the ground (green cable) and place the top back on place (screwed the top from inside the oven). 6 turned the power on
1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop 2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet. 3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface. 4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached. 5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity. 6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side. 7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together. 8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.
Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150. Tom in Steinhatchee
Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor. Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.
Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!
First, thanks to PartsSelect for getting the part to me so quickly. I went to the "Instant Repairman" , checked all that applied to my problem. The answer was the sensor, 99% of the time.I used a coat hanger to pull the latch back and open the door. I watched the video and followed the instructions to remove the old sensor. The wires were melted but the plug was still good. I used one of the adapters to install the new sensor, then replaced the two screws inside the oven. I pulled the stove out because I had read in the reviews that you needed to get the plug behind the insulation away from the oven wall. I was lucky ,there was a small hole in the back ,right behind the sensor.I gently pulled the wire and plug to the back ,well away from the oven wall. Put the stove back in place ,threw the breaker and was back cooking again!! My stove has a downdraft vent, took me longer to hook the vent back up than to install the sensor..Oh yes, did I say,I am a75 year old female and I did it all myself..
Checked online to see what F3 readout on stove meant. It meant replace sensor. Ordered part on a Sunday and part delivered Tuesday, Monday being MLK day. Detached bad sensor(2 screws inside oven)had to pull new sensor connector through hole from behind as insulation was too heavy (only removed 4 screws on right rear panel.Clipped wires together and reattached sensor inside oven. A cakewalk.
Be prepaired to take the glass out. Unexpected, but not too hard. A right angle screw driver can be helpful for the bottom door. Takes some skill and patience. Good Luck! I am happy with the parts. Delivery time was quick.
unplug stove, remove 2 top screws on each side of top back panel. Remove 4 screws holding clock to panel. Unplug each plug and plug into new clock one at a time. install clock to panel and replace back cover.
Two screws loosen the cook top so you could get to the six (or was it eight) screws underneath the cook top. Once those screws were out, three more screws were removed to take off the element. Disconnected a couple of wires and the old element was free to be removed. The new element went right back in and screws were put back in reverse order. Less than ten minutes from start to finish.
