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OVEN DOOR HANDLE BROKEN AT ATTACHING POINT
1. OPEN THE OVEN DOOR TO THE FIRST STOP, PULL UPWARD TO REMOVE, ( IT WILL LIFT RIGHT OFF) 2. LAY OVEN DOOR ON A FLAT SURFACE ( HANDLE DOWN AND HANGING OFF SURFACE) WITH A TOWEL TO PROTECT THE GLASS. 3. REMOVE ALL SCREWS AROUND THE PERIMETER OF THE DOOR.. 4. CAREFULLY SEPARATE THE DOOR FRONT AND BOTTOM BRACKET BY SLIDING AWAY FROM THE MAIN DOOR INNER-ASSEMBLY, ( THE FRONT GLASS IS HELD BY THE TOP CHANNEL. 5. TURN THE MAIN DOOR INNER ASSEMBLY OVER AND REMOVE THE HANDLE ASSEMBLY TWO ATTACHING BRACKETS. 6. REMOVE THE ATTACHING BRACKETS FROM THE HANDLE AND ATTACH TO THE NEW HANDLE. 7. THE DOOR GLASSES CAN NOW BE CLEANED 8. ATTACH THE NEW HANDLE ASSEMBLY 9. REASSEMBLE IN REVERSE ORDER. ( BE CAREFUL WHEN SLIDING FRONT DOOR GLASS INTO THE TOP DOOR CHANNEL}
The oven and ranges would not heat up and an F9 error was displaying on the Oven Screen.
So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.
Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.
I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.
1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.
2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.
3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.
I viewed the YTube Video that showed exactly how to remove the door and all the other parts for replacement. Excellent video shows and explains how to remove, replace, and re-attach the handle and the door.
I slide the range out and unplugged it from the outlet. I removed the back of the oven ( 8 screws ) using a cordless drill and phillips bit then with a phillips screwdriver I removed the oven sensor (2 screws) then I installed the new sensor , reinstalled the oven back , plugged the range in , slide it back into place and that was it. This repair took about 10 mins and the oven works perfectly. Thanks !
Important to unplug the appliance first. There were two screws which were at the top opening of the oven. They were a bit obscure, but with a bit a searching, I was able to find them. After removing those two screws, the entire top lifted up. There were four screws from the bottom of that assembly which were easy to find, and once removed, the top lifted of easily. I found it easier to remove the two power lines with two easy disconnects, this made it easier to work on the assembly. The element itself was held down by two simple clamps which required no tools. There were four easy to remove wires, and the element came right off. Simply reversing the process put it right back together, plug it in, and back to cooking again.
Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.
Unplugged the power cord first. Opened oven door and removed the two screws that held the stove top glass down. Lifted the glass top and removed the four wires connected to the element. I taped the wires to the lid in the pattern they were attached to the element. remove the element from the brackets. The new element was an exact match. reversed the sequence. Put a pot of water on and boiled a hot dog! Perfect! Great part and speedy delivery!!
the old gaskt was not linge dup well, the door was not closing well
pulled the old gasket, the new one fitted perfectly. No effort at all. An instruction sheet would be a bonus. I wish you put instruction sheet in all parts OR a web link for video instructions. a web link would be great
Only hitch I experienced was identifying the correct replacement. The original diagram presented the accurate shape of the element my range required. However a different shaped element was displayed when I noted my unit is a series 12 serial number. I ordered it (with reservations) and as it turned out the replacement was identical to mine. Next time I will have a lil more confidence in the instructions given.
Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.
Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.
Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.
Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.
Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)
reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.
back R burner of ceramic top stove went out - died
1st - UNPLUGGED appliance from electrical source!! then removed screws to open ceramic stove top, disconnected wires from dead element, plugged in wires to new element, closed stove top, turned on burner - it worked!!
only problem is that "hot burner indicator" does NOT stay lit after burner is turned off!
My wife dropped a cast iron dish on the door while it was open, bent the hinges, so it would not close properly.
It was really easy, just lift the door off from the range, I set it down on the box that the hinges came in, took the six screws out to release the front fascia of the door from the back, hinges are right there, un-screw and install the new hinges, put everything back together in reverse and lift the door back on to the range, less than 10 minutes!
Turn off breaker to oven and verify no power. Remove the two screws holding metal panel covering baking element on the floor of the oven (near back of inside of oven) Remove two screws holding element mount to floor of oven (near front of inside of oven). Remove single screw holding element to back wall of oven. Pull element toward front of oven, carefully holding wires so they do not disconnect from element and slip inside the ovenback wall. When you can reach the wire connections, hold each one with a pair of pliers and disconnect from element ends. Connect new element ends into wire connections. Be sure to insert all the way into both connectors. Carefully, push the wires back into the rear of the oven, trying not to scrape the wires on the sheet metal. When fully inserted, reinstall single screw to secure element to back wall. Re-install two screws to element mounting at the front of the oven floor. Re-install two screws to secure element cover plate to the floor of the oven. Turn on breaker for oven and verify oven has power. Turn on oven to bake at 400 degrees. Wait for oven to come up to temp and maintain for 10-15 min (you may smell some burning smells as the element heats up the first time). Enjoy...