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Dryer made loud screeching noise.
After reading all the other repair stories on Partselect, by the way thank you all, I removed the door, then removed the two security hooks that hold the top secure. Then I removed the front panel. I then marked all the screws on the outer door and shroud so I could easily put it back together. I left the all the wires connected and set the shroud and outer door to the side and removed the drum belt and drum. Removed the spring off the idler arm, then using nutdriver, removed the screw that secures the idler arm to the motor. Assembled the new idler arm parts and reversed the process to put it all back together. If I would have replaced the idler arm assembly the same time I replaced the drum support rollers, I wouldn't have had to do this twice! But now I am an expert repair tech on this particular model.
remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .
An underwire form a bra shorted the element burning it out
Knowing most mfgs. put prints under the conturo panal we started there. Diagonstics required a multi meter. The part was removed and the internet serched. My local parts center was more expensive and would have to order the part. I called Partselect found exactly what i needed. placed the order with 3 to 5 day ground. Fedex arived the next day. The new part was installed and the dryer smoke tested. The dryer works great.
dryer would no longer start when the knob was pulled up
removed the timer knob from the panel(pop off the grey knob cover and the knob comes right off) remove three torx screws from the top of control panel and tilt the panel forward.Slide the timer assembly to the right(there is a lock tab you have to push down) and unplug the timer.Reverse procedure and reassemble.That was it.
Broken Plastic twirl knob shaft on timer assembly and chrome timer cap
0. Disconnected the dryer power supply 1. Removed the control panel (3 screws, star bit) 2. Detached the electric power supply cords from the timer assembly (took a bit of easing back and forth - do not pull by the electric cords, pull the socket itself) 3. Timer assembly eased off subsequently (held in place by three unscrewed receptacles) 4. Installed the new timer assembly, plugged back the supply cords, and installed the new timer knob, skirt and chrome cap.
They don't build Maytag equipment as they used to. We bought a fridge, washer and dryer 6 years ago - all three of them have had component, part stress and/or electronic sensor failures :-(
If you are cursed with owning a Maytag product then you'll be glad PartSelet.com is in business. I get all my parts here.
My dryer motor burnt a phase. The tear down was very straight forward since there isn't much to a dryer. I did the tear down in the driveway. The dryer was full of lint so I blasted it with compressed air to clean it up. Keep all your parts in labeled baggies as you do the tear down. Reassembly goes much faster. The hardest part about changing the motor was getting the motor clips off. They are tough buggers. I used slip-joint pliers & finally popped them off. This job is simply enough for the average monkey. Just use the diagrams on partselect.com if you forget where something goes.
I shipped everything via fedex 2-day. It took 5 days to get here. partselect shipped it fast. fedex was the problem. I guess the boys at fedex have a public education is they think 5=2.
It was very simple. I removed the fromt cover on the dryer. The heating element was easy to get to and after removing all the attached wires and 4 nuts. The new element was installed, reattached the wire correctly and put the screws back in place. It was extremely easy to complete.
A year or so ago I replaced one drum wheel. The dryer worked fine for months until it started sqeaking again. When I removed the wheels again the shaft was no longer round but half moon shaped. this allowed the drum to drop lower than it's supposed to. consequently the drum ate through the back drum support. I replaced the back drum support and the roller shafts, in addition to two new rollers. It works great now. The more difficult part of the repair was replacing the rear drum support. It is screwed in from the back and requires two people. Everything else I did by myself. The lesson: If you replace the rollers, be sure the roller shafts are not worn. An asymetric shaft eventually causes more parts to wear out.
Using the pictoral parts diagrams on the PartSelect website, it was a logical process to disassemble the dryer to change the drum drive belt. This was a great opportunity to clean lint from the motor and air passages and inspect all components. Cleaned the belt track, the roller drum wheels and felt seals. Unit now runs like new. BTW - very fast shipping on the replacement belt and it was the right part the first time!
