MDBD850AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I did not move the dishwasher out. It is a fairly tight space underneath, but the water inlet valve is located toward the front, so it wasn't too bad. The steps were:

1) unplug the power and turn off the water to the dishwasher.
2) remove the 2 wire connectors.
3) use the nutdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the valve to the side of the dishwasher.
4) use a wrench (5/8") to remove the nut where the water goes into the valve. This takes some patience since you can't turn the wrench very far in the tight space.
5) remove the water outlet hose by using pliers to squeeze together the clamp and move it up the hose. Then twist the valve to free the hose and remove it from the valve. The nibs on the clamp are small and take a little time to get them squeezed together. If the hose has been on there a long time, you will have to twist the valve a few times to free it up.
6) now you will have to remove the sleeve that the nut was screwed onto. I had to take the valve to my vise to hold it. Then it wasn't too hard to remove.
7) use teflon tape before you reassemble. Just go in the reverse order.
8) hope there isn't a leak. Mine didn't.

The new water inlet valve seems to have fixed the problem!

Make sure dishwasher is powered off. Remove all inner door panel screws. Lift inner door panel upward and lean against the tub. Use a putty knife or spatula to lift old lower foam seal. Make sure door seal area is clean. Start at one end, butt new foam against the side of door and slowly pull glue strip backing while pressing foam down from left to right. Reverse door assembly.

Make sure dishwasher if off and door unlatched. Remove lower kick panel 4 screws and remove 1 screw securing float switch arm. Hold float stem with pliers and remove bottom stem nut. Remove float and re-install the new float with reverse procedure listed.
Super fast shipping on items!! Great service.

Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

Opened up the front of the dishwasher from the inside, unplugged the old circuit board along with the old LED assembly, plugged in the new one, screwed everything back down. Dishwasher works now.

1. Print out the "pump and motor" exploded diagram and label the numbered parts down to #11 (discharge housing assembly).

2. Unscrew the "lower spray arm cap" (#34) by hand (it just twists off), remove the "jump up nozzle" (#1), and lift the "lower spray arm" (#2) and filter guard" (#36) out together.

3. With a torx screw driver, remove the screws holding the "pump cover and secondary filter assembly" (#4), taking note how the assembly was positioned. Be careful not to lose the two plastic "lower spray arm seals".

4. Lift out the "pump housing filter" (#6) and "rinse arm assembly" (#7).

5. With a 5/16 wrench, remove the bolts holding the "discharge housing assembly" (#11). You will likely find a plastic disk just sitting there under the discharge housing assembly. This is the source of your problem. It is the lower plate that has worn loose from the rest of the assembly and the noise is from it being ground by the impeller below.

6. The simplest fix is to order a new "discharge housing assembly" along with gaskets #37 - O-ring (for "pump cover in step #3. Mine was missing.) and #38 - "upper discharge housing gasket. Three parts to order and save your exploded diagram for when you put it back together.

7. Remove the "discharge housing nut" at the top of the old discharge assembly, lift off the "wash arm support", and put both on the new discharge assembly.

8. Insert new seals where they belong and reassemble the dishwasher in reverse order.

Other parts used:
Discharge Housing Assembly (#11)
Impeller Assembly (Wash Impeller) (#14)
O-Ring (#37)
Upper Discharge Housing Gasket (#38)

Removed upper and lower washing baskets.

Pulled off Upper Spray Arm (#33). It pulls off easily by hand. No tools required. Replaced with new Upper Spray Arm (#33) and Snap Spray Retainer (#31).

Removed Large Spray Arm Cap(#34,)which has a right hand thread. This allowed me to take the Lower Spray Arm(#2)off.
Removed Filter Guard (#36).

Next I removed the 6 screws from the Pump Cover & Secondary Filter Assembly (#4) with a Torx screwdriver. Removed Lower Spray Arm Seal(#3), Pump House Filter (#6)(which I cleaned), Assembly, Rinse Arm (#7) Jump Up Nozzle (#1). Unscrewed Discharge Housing Nut(#8) by hand. Removed Support, Wash Arm (#9). This allowed me to remove the three screws holding the Discharge Housing Assembly(#11)with a 5/16th nut driver. Next I removed the Impeller Screw (#12) with a 5/16th nut driver. You must hold the Impeller Assembly (#14) firmly while loosening the nut. Removed Impeller Assembly (#12) and Plate, Suction (#15). Cleaned out area of debris,lint, etc. Put back old Plate, Suction (#15) and replaced Impeller Assembly (#14) with new part. Replaced Upper Housing Gasket and Discharge Housing Assembly with new parts. Put back all parts in the reverse order I removed them replacing the O-Ring (#37) with a new part. This O-Ring goes in the Pump Cover & Secondary Filter Assembly (#4).

After completely assembled it ran as good as new!

Actual i missed diagnosed the leak and ordered a very expensive door gasket. The leak was coming from shrinage of the wax resevoire o rig and the tab seal for the soap dispensor. I missed the trees the forest got in the way. The leak was dripping alond the front panel well away from the main door seal.

I cleans a the plastic surfaces and noticed a lip around the opening for the reservoire and used 150 sandpaper to remove it. Replaced the O ring, tab seal and bothe selonoids and cleaned everything. Put it back together. Works find lasts along time

The repair is fairly simple except that the diagram on the web site has an error - it reverses the positions of the long hinge pin and the short pin. I kept trying to do it as the diagram showed and of course it didn't work. Then I followed my instincts! The only other difficult part was figuring out which way to insert the spring but there are only a few options so trial and error was the simplest way.

It takes about 5 min. to disassembled the lower jet system. As you disassemble, make sure you clean all the filters, and asses the integrity of the filters. If they are broken, you need to replace. Once you get to the impeller, you know it is broken because the lower part is loose. To replace you need to firmly hold the impeller as you unscrew the top screw. If the housing gasket is broken or too loose, replace. Otherwise you will have leak. Refer to your models diagram for proper assembly.

We have a nine year old Maytag dishwasher. The handle latch is plastic and over time with the many repeated uses it cracked and broke. I went to the local appliance repair shop and found the part in their data base but it would take ten days to get and cost $22.
My wife and I thought it might be time to get a new dishwasher but after checking out prices at $500 or more, I decided to search on line and repair it myself.
I found the part easily and quickly on Partselect.com and it was actually half the price of another internet dealer. The photographs helped me confirm I was buying the right part. It cost $6 plus shipping and I was amazed that it arrived in two days to California. It was easy to install, simply by removing the interior panel and slipping the new piece into place in the handle. The dishwasher works like new.
Thank you, Partselect.com for a quick answer to our problem!

We ordered the replacement part for our Maytag model and when it came we saw that it was different than the original part. The original part had 8 wheels with a higher left hand side. The replacement part had only 6 wheels and no higher side. The replacement part would not pull in and out evenly and was a bit too narrower. We called Parts Select and told them our problem and they are going to refund us in full and take back the part they sent. Alas we will have to buy a new dishwasher. We would use Part Select in the future for replacement parts.
Alice
Cambridge, MA

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

Took off the float, the jam nut was hard to get off, we ended up breaking the bottom piece of the float to get it off, but that was okay because we had a new float. The new float went on real easy and the jam nut went back on real easy. The foam insulation strip was real easy to get off we got a good hold of one end and striped it off slowly so there was nothing left on the door, then we cleaned the surface and put on the new insulation strip. We ran dishwasher to test it and there was no leak. Awesome. Cheap and easy to repair. We were impressed.

threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

slid the part in the groove (left side)