MDBD850AWB Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Took off bottom plate for access. Slid part that holds bottom of spring forward so I could reach it without pulling dishwasher out of position. Hooked spring to bottom attachment, then connected door spring linkage to holder that is attached to the dishwasher frame. Adjusted the tension with the tension screw and buttoned up bottom plate.

Removed the old gasket, without tools, and fit the new gasket into the space, making sure it was in the groove correctly all around, job done, works great. The ordering of the gasket on this site was easy and the shipping time was amazing, one day. Would use this company again, and recommend to anyone needing parts that wants to do repairs themself. I am sure saved a whole lot over hiring someone, and got the job done sooner also.

After replacing the door gasket and seeing that this wasn't the problem, using the schematics found at partselect.com I finally realized that it may be the insulation foam strip. I ordered the product and received it very quickly. Installation went fairly quickly. It was easy to remove the old foam strip and install the new one. The only problem was that the foam strip was about 1/4 " too short and it didn't cover the entire bottom. I improvised a little bit and cut off some of the old strip and covered the gap. So far the leak seems to have been fixed. In addition to the foam strip I had to buy a torx screwdriver for $11 at the local hardware store. The total spent was around $25.

I removed the dishwasher to outside the house and examined it for signs of leakage. Found 2, one at the water injector and a second at the bottom right of the front door. In checking the water injector I found that a large roach had crawled in and died which was blocking the inlet into the dishwasher. I cleaned that out. I examined the door and seal but could not find any obvious source for the door leak. I purchased locally a door seal and installed it. I connected the dishwasher up to water and electricity using a grounded plug. I also hooked up a drain hose (be sure to put an elevated loop in it to keep the water from draining before being pumped out). I ran the dishwasher and found water still dripping from inside the front door during the wash cycle only. After unplugging the dishwasher, I removed the door's front decorative panel (2 screws, one on each outside lower edge) and began watching through one of the 1.5" holes punched in the door metal panel. I noted that during the wash cycle only, water was dripping from the area of the soap dispensor release mechanism. I the inner door plastic panel, by removing the seven screws. I also had to remove the dispensor release actuator since I could not pull the 2 wire connectors off without fearing I would break the mounting tabs off. I released the tabs that held in the actuator easily with my fingers freeing the actuator from the inner plastic panel. The only place that I could see an opening was the the release arm and its rubber seal. However the rubber seal was heavily caked with hardened detergent. Feeling that the seal rubber was probably hardened and cracked, I released it. I had to remove the release arm assembly held in with 2 screws. I reassembled the assembly with the new seal in and ran the dishwasher. No leaks. I did find that if I had just pulled the seal and rubbed it between my fingers the dried detergent would break off and the rubber itself was fine. Should have tried that first. I did replace the dispensor door because of crusted detergent on the door seal. I could not get the crusty stuff off without tearing the seal. I used a small thin punch to push the hinge pin (non spring side) from the plastic inner panel to the dispensor door side releasing the hinge and allowing the door to come out. Reinstalled the pins and spring into the new door. After putting the dispensor door in place, I pushed the hinge pin (non spring side) through the door hinge into the inner plastic panel.
I also wanted to improve the cleaning level that had decreased over the years. I removed the uppper pump housing by removing the hand nut on the lower spray bar then the 6 T-20 torx screws. Inside the plastic filter screen. I found that the screen was partially plugged by either minerals or dried detergent. The old one was stuck slightly to the lower pump housing. I tried to poke out the debris out of each of the screen holes but was taking way too long. I did not try chemicals but since I was ordering parts made sense to have a new one shipped in. You have to snap the new screen together and align the edges before inserting it into the lower pump housing. Reassemble the upper pump housing. Be sure to clean the filter spinning arms of debris along with the lower (and upper) spray arms befrore reassembling them. Ran the dishwasher a couple of full cycles to check for leaks and found none.
FYI, the dishwasher will not clean as well if you fill it with cold water and even with the heat element, the cycles take a very long time to run through to allow for heating the water. Once I reinstalled the dishwasher, I notice an improvement in cleaning.
Good luck.

1- turn power off. 2- remove 7 screws to take door apart 3- remove 2 screws to take dispenser out. 4- i unhooked electic plug from it. 5- replace grommet and all back together. not bad to be 72 years old.

Most difficult was figuring out how to release the top rack...just flip the end pieces to the side and out they come. Next was removing and reinserting the spray head in the bottom rack...just twist and take out then align and twist into place in the new rack.

After examining the door and main seal around the dishwasher I thought everything looked okay. I looked online to order a new seal anyway and discovered from others that the leak was probably the insulation strip inside the door rather than the seal around the dishwasher. I ordered an insulation strip and it arrived a couple days later. I removed the seven screws of the interior door cover and disconnected the electrical. After removing the old insulation strip and installig the new one I reconnected the electrical wiring/plugs, put the door cover back on, and reinstalled the screws. Total time was about 15-20 minutes and the leak stopped. It was very easy and saved the cost of a repairman or a new dishwasher. I'm very glad that I "listened" to others and went with the new insulation strip.

My original order was for the "Motor Gasket" in the bottom of the tub that just looked nasty. Not leaking. Replacing that was a little more complicated, but used another customer's recommendations and worked great. Ran an empty load to check for leaks and thats when we discovered that we had a leak on the side of the darn thing. So we ordered the "Injector Seal Ring. Got it in about 5 days and after installing, (2 seconds), we still had a leak! Soooo, ordered the "Water Inlet Injector". 5 days later, we have NO MORE LEAKS!!! I would STRONGLY suggest that anyone who has a leak at the Water Inlet, order a new Injector right along with the Seal Ring. The shipping and handling was WAY more than the price of the parts. I'm happy to say that my 10 year old dishwasher is running like a champ. Thank You.

Removed old door gasket and water deflectors and replaced with new. Got the gasket in backwards at first. Removed and rotated 180 degrees and it went in properly. (Used tech video provided by parts select to help me.)

Though the old gasket was definitely bad, water still leaked after replacement.

Key issue ...... over time, contamination has accumulated in the water shutoff lever assembly and also on the shutoff microswitch underneath the internal water float, making both sticky and non-responsive to water level. Water had been overfilling. (probably defaulting to a maximum number of seconds to fill). ALSO - original installation was not totally level, with back of tub higher than the front.

Leveled tub. Removed mocroswitch and lever and cleaned both of sticky grease.

No more leakage.. basic problem was actually overfilling, allowing water to surge into the lower internal door vent upon pump startup.

Ron
Mount Airy, MD

Figured out that the only thing that could be causing this was a bad inlet valve. Repair was really easy. Didn't even have to pull machine out from under cabinet. First removed kick plate. Then placed towel under the old valve. Undid the power connections and water lines (in and out). removed the to screws holding the valve to the body of the washer. With the valve free, removed the brass elbow and installed it on the new valve. Reinstalled the valve and all connections. Works like a charm.

Took the replacment rack out of the box and found that it was the proper one. Had to rotate out the water director tower from the orignal rack and install it in new rack which took a few seconds to figure out . it was time to discard the ailing rack! Apparently the dish soap can attack the rack materia if there is any metal exposed and rot it out like rust so when this happens time for a new one. Otherwise there are no pins to support the bowls and plates in the lower section.

Simply remove the washer nut,then pull the float assembly. As far the lever,just unscrew the screw and replace the actuator lever. What was great about everything I was able to go to the presented diagram. This allowed me to find the exact parts I needed. Of course make sure you have the model number.

I first removed the washer arm. Be careful because it is screwed on with the large center plastic piece with right hand thread. That allowed me to take the arm and disc off.

Next I took 6 screws loose with the allen wrench. This allowed me to get to the filter ring. I removed it and that allowed me to get to the three screws holding the discharge. I used a 5/16th socket to remove them.

A plastic disc that was part of the upper pump came loose and caused the noise. I replaced the upper discharge housing (with upper pump as part of it) and upper discharge housing gasket and reversed the order to reassemble.

The exploded diagram was a terrific help

Remove the Palnut Screw from bottom of Float assembly using pliers, Remove Pivot pin from Actuator lever w/ screw driver. Replace the Float , install new palnut Screw and re-install pivot pin on actuator lever.

That's it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I took the bottom rack out of the dishwasher. I then took the filter guard and bottom spray arm out. Then I took the screws out of the filter guard to get to the rinse arm. I took the filter guard off, took the old rinse arm out and put in the new one. Have to make sure it is completely resting inside there. Then I put the filter guard back on. Put the screws back into the filter guard, put the two arm seals down around the rinse arm, put the bottom arm spray with guard back into the notches, put the screw top on so it can screw back in and the dishwasher is ready to go. Just make sure that you don't have a lot of soap built up, it will not clean the dishes right nor will the spray arms move. I had to call my appliance person out, and I have so much built up from soap, that I had to order a new filter guard and top and bottom spray jets. I now know to switch back to powder or liquid soap, because the tablets make a huge built up of soap... I have these parts on order now. In the meantime, I am cleaning out the jets with dishwasher magic and vinegar while I am waiting for my new parts. I now know how to put things back together so when I have this happen again I will know how to do it to save me the 63.00 office call and parts. I am happy that I know where to get my parts when I need them or break them by accident on trying to put my dishwasher back together again. Thanks.