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Needed to change out front panel from Black to SSteel
Open door fully. Remove all screws that hold inside panel to Front panel. Carefully remove Inside panel being VERY CAREFULL not to pull wiring out of door switch [top of door] and operator switch panel [also top of door]. Remove door switch, next remove 3 screws holding switch panel in place. Remove the top plastic section where switch panel mounts and set aside. Carefully remove green ground wire from bottem hinge for door. [right side] Next CAREFULLY remove front panel from hinges using EXTREME CARE not to let hinges "free fall" to the open position. Remove old panel. Install new panel in the reverse order as the old one was removed. DO NOT PANIC if you happen to pull the "ribbon cable' out of panel switch. It will plug back in very quickly and only one way. Just make sure it is "seated" in plug. The "key word" for this panel replacement is CAREFULLY.
1 - Disconnect the electrical power 2 - Open the dishwasher door 3 - Use Allan wrench to remove the screws from the inside door panel 4 - Separate the inside pane from the door 5 - Remove the latch assembly 6 - Use a screw driver or pliers to remove the electrical connectors from the broken latch assembly 7 - Connect the electrical connectors to the replacement latch assembly 8 - Place the replacement latch assemble in the door 9 - Replace the inside door panel 10 - Replace the screws to secure the inside door panel 11 – Reconnect the electrical power
threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks
Disconnect the power,open panel and remove screws with the exception of the two bottom ones. This allows the panel cover to be opened far enough to pull latch assembly clear. Remove electrical contacts (2) and put defective unit aside. Connect new latch unit to both wire saddles,line up unit with proper holes and install two screws. Once fixed in place,install all other screws and switch power back on.Do a short test run to check for any leaks
If you have already figured out what the problem and the part number is, and have gotten this far, then you probably already know how to fix it and do not need instructions. But if you do, I took the following steps:
1) Use a #T20 star bit to remove the screws from the inner door panel. [Note: I would use a manual screw driver as opposed to a drill/driver, because you are less likely to accidentally strip the threads in the screw holes];
2) Lift the panel up and detach the wire harnesses from the metal receptacles attached to the old assembly.
3) Remove the old latch assembly, and then press the wire harnesses into the metal receptacles on the new assembly. [Note: You may have trouble getting the wiring harnesses out. If you pull hard enough you can get them off, but if you truly cannot, simply detach the metal receptacles from both the new and old latch assemblies and place the old metal receptacles on the new assembly with the wire harnesses still attached. If you choose this method, be careful with the little plastic retainer bars that secure the metal receptacles, they are pretty easy to break.];
3) Put the new latch assembly in its seating and re-secure the inner door panel. If you used a drill/driver before, I would really switch to a manual driver at this point.
4) Take the dishes out of your bathtub, and place them in the dishwasher.
Read the Q & A, watched the videos and tried not to drop any screws into the wash tub. Walter from Tucson, AZ made a great point about not overtightening any screws that bed into plastic.
Diswasher door would not latch properly. Plastic handle broken.
Received the entire latch/switch assembly rather than just the plastic latch handle. This was a pleasant surprise, especially for the price. The latch assembly was clearly a better designed and more robust assembly than the original. Removed the inside panel of the door by removing the dozen or so TORX screws. Pulled the inside panel away from the outside door panel (gently, cables attached) to gain access to the latch/switch assembly. A second set of hands was helpful for this and some following steps. At that point the latch assembly was free mechanically from the door, but there were two wiring harnesses attached to the latch assembly via plug connectors to the two microswitches on the latch assembly. It looked like it was going to be easy to unplug the harness from the switches, but I could not do it. Never did figure out how to do it. Removed the two microswitches (with harnesses attached) from the 'old' latch assembly by pulling back the plastic tab that holds each switch in place. At that point the rest of the latch assembly was completely free from the machine. Removed the two microswitches from the 'new' latch assembly using the same method as above. This step requires care as the plastic parts and switches can be damaged. Put in place the two 'old' microswitches with wiring harnesses attached on each side of the 'new' latch assembly. These snap in place. This requires care, as above, and the second set of hands to hold away the inside door panel. Put the latch/switch assembly in place in the door, and put the inside door panel back in place. Re-installed the TORX screws holding the inside door panel - and latch assembly - to the door. I kept the 'new' microswitches because one day the 'old' switches may fail. If that happens and I want to replace the microswitches, I still don't know how I will remove the switches from the wiring harness. I guess I'll figure that out if the time comes. Except for the difficulties disconnecting the microswitches from the harnesses, this was an easy and straightforward job. The latching of the door seems more positive, now, and the machine is working fine.
Silverware basket had broken through on the bottom and silverware would not stay in. Handle was tricky to put on. Bottom rack one of the adjustable racks had broken.
Very simple! First, free the wheel from the rail - should come right out if the wheel is broken. Then click the wheel base off the small shelf rod by rotating the wheel bse. Then, click the rail end cap off the rail by pressing it through the small square hole in the flat side of the rail. Insert the wheel into the rail, then click the wheel base back onto the shelf rail rod where you took the old one off. Click the rail end cap back on, and you're done!
A common theme you'll see thoughout the repair stories;
1. many broken handles at the hinge 2. TURN THE POWER OFF.
This assembly comes with the microswitches (which is not a bad idea to replace since they are electromechanical and will eventually fail). My only recommendation is to buy a couple of these handle assemblies because they WILL fail. I'm on my 3rd!
Followed the suggestions on PartSelect - took off the screws on the door; removed 2 screws on the assembly that held it to the door; disconnected switches (hardest part) - they seem to fuse on(or rust) from the moisture; took the new (much sturdier part than original) assembly and plugged in the switches; set in place; replaced the 2 screws, replaced the screws holding the door panel - Complete - works great! Here we thought we would have to get a new dishwasher!!!!
I originally ordered the incorrect piece via the website, however when calling PartSelect to return the part they informed me that they could help me find the correct piece which they did. The correct piece arrived within 4 days. It was easy to install. The part works well. I'm very happy with the customer service.
Removed the bottom tray. Removed the two clips in the top tray guides and removed the top tray. Removed the top spray arm and transfer tube by unclipping it from the top and at the back and then rotated it down and out. Removed the six screws around the upper pump housing and removed it along with the bottom spray arm. Removed the three screws holding the filter protector plate and removed it. Removed the two screws holding the accumulator / flow plate and removed it. Put it back together in reverse order careful to not over tighten the screws.
