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MDB4000AWW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for MDB4000AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MDB4000AWW
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Water under the dishwasher

  • Customer: Kurt from North Ogden UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 27 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
1. I removed the covers below the door and watched during a wash cycle to see where the water was leaking. There was a small pinhole on the rubber connector at the end of what turned out to be the "top shower hose". I was hoping I could just replace that rubber connector, but apparently it is permanantly attached to the entire "top shower hose" assembly.
2. To remove the top shower hose I first turned of the circuit breaker to the dishwasher.
3. I needed to slide the dishwasher about half way out of the cabinet, requiring removal of two screws at the top of the dishwasher attaching it to the counter.
4. I also had to turn off the water and disconnect the water supply hose (at supply valve, not inside the washer) because it had no slack to allow the dishwasher to slide out of the cabinet.
5. I removed the hose clamp at the bottom of the dishwasher.
6. I removed the top dish rack (there are clips on the ends of the rails that can be opened to allow the rack to come out).
7. I popped off the upper washer arm by fiddling with the clip mechanism. Then I removed the threaded "nut" holding the hose in place.
8. As others mentioned, it is good to remember to save and re-use the hose clamp and rubber washer.
9. Removed the old hose.
10. Ordered new hose, waited for delivery. Kids washed dishes by hand for a few days.
11. Installed the new hose. Replaced the rubber washer at the top end and fastened with the "nut." Replaced the washer arm and top dish rack.
12. Connected the bottom end of hose, re-using the hose clamp.
13. Positioned dishwasher back under cabinet and replaced screws.
14. Re-connected the water supply hose.
15. Turned circuit breaker back on.
16. Began using dishwasher again. Observed a few wash cycles to ensure no leaks.
17. Re-attached the covers below the door.
18. Done.

The dishwasher wouldn't fill with water.

  • Customer: Jared from Rutland VT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 21 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
I first turned off the water to the dishwasher, then the electricity to it, then took off the front bottom access panel, I then unbolted the inlet valve from the side of the machine, undid the electrical hookups remembering which one connected to which, then unclamped the two hoses, I then put the new one back in place, redoing the hoses and electrical and bolting it back to the side of the machine, then putting the front bottom access panel back on, then turning back on the water and electicity. The one thing that may make it easier if you can is to pull the dishwasher out from under the cabinets and lay it down so the bottom is exposed. This would make the process a little smoother.

Dishwasher leaks water

  • Customer: Andrew from Northfield OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the two plates located below the dishwasher door to expose the float switch. I removed the two screws holding float switch, I removed screw holding switch actuator, then I removed float assembly.
Installed new float assembly, but could not use the float palnut, it had too small of a hole, I substituted a larger one that fit the float better. Note I fitted the palnut to the float (the nut cuts it's own threads in the float) before installing the float. This made installation easier. Next I transferred the two wires from the old float switch to the new float switch in the same positions as the existing switch wires. Then I installed the float switch. Finally, I cleaned up the float switch actuator and screw so that the actuator moves freely on the screw. I then installed the float switch actuator and ran the dishwasher to check for proper operation. Note: this float and switch control the water level in the dishwasher. If the actuator sticks, the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the float has collected dirt inside, it will weigh more and the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the switch sticks or fails the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. That is why I relaced the parts: float and switch. I don't want to go back and work on this again.
Lastly, after a few days of proper operation, I installed the two plates located below the dishwasher door. Job done!

son used door for a step and bent as well as broke spring door component

  • Customer: kathleen from farmersville CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 21 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
first i removed the 2 holding screws fron the underside of the counter then oulled the dishwasher out about a foot. i then removed the side panel that hold the front plate in plase on the right, below this were the screws that held the door hinge assembly on the right. i then proceeded to remove those bolts. and replaced with the new one. replacing the spring and the linkage came next no tools required. i have to say that the diagram when i ordered helped emensly. i am a 45 yr old woman and fixed it by nyself thanks to your ordering diagrams. life is good!!

Water Valve would not open to allow water into DishWasher

  • Customer: Bob from Allen TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 22 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
First, I removed the foot plate(s) at the bottom of the Dishwasher. (2 screws each side)

Then I removed the two top screws at the front of the dish-washer. The screws were mounted into a board under the counter that had broken loose. (A minor secondary issue specific to my situation.)

I gently inched the dishwasher out from under the cabinets.

SLOWLY, I tipped the dishwasher over on its side, allowing the water still inside to drain into a pan. Minor cleanup required for the cup or two that missed.

I then had access to the part. I disconnected the power from the wall socket, and I closed the valve for the inlet water from under the sink.

I removed the screws holding the Water Valve to the DishWasher case. Then I took a sharpie and marked one side of one of the two power connectors, black-mark to black-mark.

When I went to disconnect the inlet pipe, there was more dripping than I expected, so the valve under the sink was not closing completely. I needed to shut off the water supply to the house for the next stage.

I disconnected the inlet water supply, which continued to drip slightly into a bucket. I then removed the coupler from the old water valve. It was badly clogged and corroded, so I went to a local HW store and found an exact match 3/8" to 3/8" right angle coupler with compression fitting on one end.

BIG TRICK, before installing the new coupler, WRAP the compression fitting threads with teflon tape. You will not be able to wrap it once it is installed. In fact, I needed to uninstall the part once after I discovered this, to wrap the threads smoothly.

Once pre-wrapped, wrap the other threads that screw into the water valve. Tighten until secure, AND aligned with the direction of the flow tubes of the original.

Match the electrical connectors, black-mark to the same position as before. (The new water valve will NOT have the black-mark on it, unless you transfer one!)

Connect the Water valve back to the Dish Washer chassis with the two screws previously removed.

Connect the inlet water back to the compression fitting with the pre-wrapped threads.

Gently return the dishwasher to upright, and then plug it in.

Open the valve under the sink slowly and watch for drips or leaks.

Run the dishwasher at the start of a cycle, long enough to determine that the valve activates, and allows water to flow. Then stop the cycle.

Gently walk the dishwasher back under the counter, observing that you do not kink the copper water inlet pipe, or the drain pipe.

Adjust the feet, if necessary, back to fully support and level the dishwasher.

Install the two screws holding the dishwasher to the cabinet front. Then install the kick plates and tighten those 4 screws.

Clean up any residual water from the process.

Leaking at bottom of door

  • Customer: E L from Seeley Lake MT
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
The initial repair was more involved due to figuring out how to get at the problem. A foam sealer strip located at the bottom of the inner door had lost it's seal. I first sent off for one and it was of relatively thin material. It was carefully installed but still leaked. I ordered another one from Part Select and it had thicker foam. It was installed right over the previously installed strip and made a tight seal. (knock on wood)

Leaking on right fromt of the door.

  • Customer: Gary from Longville MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
removed the door gasket by just pulling it out and pushing the new one in its place. very easy, took five minutes at most. Then removed the 7 screws holding the inside of the door in place, removed the dispenser assembly, held by two drive screws and replaced the dispenser door latch grommet. Finally, removed the insulation foam gasket. Had to scrape the old adhesive from the door as the old a\gasket had disintegrated. This took the most time. Then just pressed the new foam gasket in place. Reading the comments from others was a big help. Don't think I would have replaced the dispenser grommet had I not been warned about it. I'm sure it was part of the problem. All is well now, no leaks.

Door was leaking badly

  • Customer: Aimee from Mount Pleasant MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
After performing some maintenance to get the water flowing properly through the system (that's another story) the door was leaking very badly during any test run of the dishwasher.

We thought it was the gasket because the old one was calcified and dried out from years of harder water.

We ordered the new one and in minutes after receiving the new gasket we had a firm seal and our dishwasher was back in action.

noisey poor cleaning

  • Customer: mark from Waterbury DC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 28 of 55 people found this instruction helpful
Everyone said it's too old to fix, I said I have nothing to lose by taking it apart and looking for broken parts.Sure enough I found a broken pump propeller and orded the part and had it in 18 hrs. I,with the help of a you-tube tutorial, fixed it in an hour. My wife thinks I am a hero. I think I am a hero cause I saved $500.

Dishwasher leaking below door

  • Customer: Donald from Pittsford NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
This ended up to be a (2) phase project. The first repair was to replace the door seal and inner door foam. Thanks to earlier online comments this part was really easy, but we still had a small leak. When I had removed the interior face of the door panel to replace the inner door foam, I had noticed the insulation was wet and deducted that the 'soap cup door latch gasket' was the real culprit so I had to place a second order (Phase 2). The order came quickly and in time for next Saturdays to to list. My advice is to replace all 4 items at the same time and save on mailing cost and repair time; reservoir O-ring, soap cup door latch gasket, inner foam gasket and door gasket. net repair time, about an hour start to finish.
Don and Rosie
Rochester, NY

Dishes Weren't Getting Clean

  • Customer: Allen from Columbia SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I surfed the net using phrases like "dishes not clean" and found a series of possible solutions. When I noticed that the water in the washer was cold, I realized it was a heating element issue. Using a multi-meter set to the lowest resistance I tested both ends of the heating element (OF COURSE I SHUT OFF ELECTRICITY TO THE DISHWASHER FIRST!!!) and found it read a steady 16 ohms. Then I followed the orange leads to the limiter, removed the leads and tested resistance and found it at near zero. Touchdown.

I ordered the new limiter, had it in a couple of days and installed in in 5 minutes. The hardest part was putting the metal cover back on the bottom of the unit.t

Bad switch that appeared to be worse than it appeared

  • Customer: Stuart from White Hall AR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
1. Turned power to the unit off.
2. Used a star bit to remove the 7 screws holding the door panel in place.
3. Handed each to my 2 year-old grand daughter.
4. Removed a 1" switch metal retaining plate and a black plastic cover. Removed one screw holding the switch in place.
5. Gently lifted out the old switch and compared it to the replacement switch.
6. Inserted the two black connectors into the new switch.
7. Removed each of the four wires connected to the old switch and connected each, in-turn, to the new switch. Removed the exterior black handle from the old switch and snapped it into place on the new switch.
8. Put the switch into place, reinstalled the black plastic housing cover and long 1" metal switch retaining panel.
9. Set the door cover in place and let the 2 year-old screw in the 7 retaining screws.
10. Don't have to listen to the wife complain about the dishwasher anymore.

float leaking

  • Customer: phillip from hodges AL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 18 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
float was missing palnut and letting the float slide up too much causing small leak around the float

Not enough water pressure to wash soap out of dispenser

  • Customer: Duane from Las Vegas NV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Our first effort was to replace the lower washer arm that had splits in the sides of this plastic part. While this increased the water pressure in the wash cycle some it was not enough to adequately wash the dishes. We read that someone else had to clean out the filter which was below the lower washer arm assembly. Thus, we took off the loweer arm assembly by screwing off the hold down assembly in the middle of the arm. We then took off the pump cover by removing the 6 screws that hold it in place with a #3 metric allen wrench. When we took of the cover we could see that the pump filter was so covered with deposits that it was not letting the water through to the pump. Rather than spend hours trying to clean the filter and pump cover we decided it was easier to repalce them. Thus, we ordered the parts and replaced them. The dishwaster is now working fine. We appreciated the information that others had shared that helped us find and fix the problem.

Water leaking out of bottom of door when running

  • Customer: Wayne from Moreno Valley CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing bottom spray arm to fix leaky door:

To fix the leak in the door it is necessary to replace the bottom spray arm. This is because when the lower spary arm fails it gets small splits which, when spraying, send water up into the door vent and inside the door. It then leaks out the bottom of the door to drain.

1. Take out he bottom dish rack.

2. Locate plastic nut (lower spray arm cap) on lower spray arm (see parts diagram).

3. Remove plastic nut (lower spray arm cap) by hand - it twists counter clockwise to loosen.

4. There will be a small piece (jump-up nozzle) under the plastic nut (lower spary arm cap). Note how it was situated. Place it aside with the lower spary arm cap - you'll need them both during reassembly.

5. Pull off lower spary arm and filter guard (they are attached to each other).

6. Note how the lower spray arm was attached to the filter guard. The top and bottom of the lower spray arm are not the same.

7. Unsnap lower spray arm from filter guard by pulling up on one side and then the other to removed it from the plastic clips on the filter guard.

8. Install the new lower spray arm, by snaping it into the plastic retainers on the filter guard, one side at a time. Make sure you installed it with the correct side up.

9. Remove the two metal pieces (Radient Shield)from each end of the old lower spray arm and place the on the new lower spray arm. A small flat head screwdriver is useful to assist in removing them from the old arm.

9. Place the assembly (lower spray arm and filter guard) back onto the dishwasher and place the jump-up nozzle back into position.

8. Attach the palstic nut (lower spray arm cap) and tighten clockwise until secure. Don't over tighten.

9. Slide the bottom dish rack back into position.

This will fix the problem of the leaky door. I went ahead and replaced the upeer spray arm at the same time since it was a connvient time to do so.
If you wish to do so read on.

Replacing upper spray arm.

1. Remove the bottom dish rack.

2. You can remove the top dish rack, but you don't need to.

3. Examine where the upper spray arm is attached to the dishwasher. You will see three parts. The one on the spary arm center - toward the inside of the dishwasher is the SNAP SPRAY RETAINER. Next is the UPPER SPRAY ARM itself. Next, between the UPPERT SPRAY ARM and the body of the dishwasher is the SNAP OUTLET NUT.

4. Remove the SNAP OUTLET NUT by turing it counter clockwise (remember its upside down so you have to be looking up at it to determine which way is counter clockwise). I had to use a screwdriver blade and the palm of my hand to get it to loosen - I set the blade against one of the Knurls on the nut and gave it a tap with the palm of my hand).

5. The whole assembly will drop down. Remove it from the dishwasher. Note the way the UPPER SPRAY ARM is positioned; as the two sides are different.

6. With a pair of needle nose pliers compress the wings of the SNAP SPRAY RETAINER and remove it from the assembly. The assembly is now in three pieces.

7. Replace the old UPPER SPRAY ARM with the new one - again make sure it is in correctrly, as there is a top and bottom to the spary arm.

8. Insert the the SNAP SPRAY RETAINER into the new UPPER SPRAY ARM and into the SNAP OUTLET NUT. Place the assembly back into the dishwasher by tightening down the SNAP OUTLET NUT - turning it clockwise to tighten.

9. Replace the uppper dish rack if you removed it.

10. Repalce the lower dish rack.
All Instructions for the MDB4000AWW
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