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MAH6500AWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAH6500AWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAH6500AWW
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water leakage out of front door washer

  • Customer: Monique from West Milford NJ
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I actually ordered the wrong part and will be requesting to return this for something else. This door boot seal kit was not installed.

Washing large object broke inner door

  • Customer: Scott from Allen TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed all the screws, which removed the door. Once the door was off, was able to de-install all the parts of the old door and install on the new door. The engineers that design this, made it to be able to replace easily. Inner door part was replaced in less than 30 mins. The most amazing part was I order the part on Monday and the door was fix on Tuesday before 2:00. I was amazed. Thanks

Front bearings totally destroyed rear bearings rusted out

  • Customer: john from richland MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I found your site where other people worked on their washers . I removed the front & rear panels. at the front I found that removing the rubber tub seal was easy, then I removed the 3 agitaters that cover the nuts that hold the tub to the support drive shaft ,I saved the plastic shims nuts & washers then removed the tub,I removed the drive wheel, I put the bolt & washers back in the shaft end & knocked it out with a 1lb hammer.I removed the motor and all the hoses also the front & rear WeightsI left the switches connected to the wires, for everything I removed including screws I taped them all to the parts that they camefrom .Then I knocked out the rear bearing with a 8" long 1/2'dia.piece of steel rod taking care to drive evenly around the circomference of the bearing. the front bearing was in 2 pieces with the bearings in a pile inside the hub because of the spacer between the bearings there was not a lot of bearing to hit but eventually it came out I saved the spacer & the rear bearing clip & cleaned them up for reuse.The face of the crap metal insert was badly corroded ,I cleaned it and all surfaces inside the hub with a wire brush in my drillmotor I found bearings at an industrial store and found NO problem matching the old bearings I ordered the lipseal kit from Part select It came with 2 seals & dubious instrutions I found the revised seal did not fit my support shaft but the other one did ,it comes in 2 parts that are stuck together with grease pry them apart with e small screw driver. I then tapped the new bearings in rear first then the spacer. then the front bearing I tapped it in enough to get it started then I inserted a cardboard toilet roll center folded enough to go in through the spacer & the rear bearing this lined up the parts so the shaft will go throughafter the bearings & new seal were in I used a marine silicon to put over the corroded face & made shure that it snugged up to the seal ,sealing it good I let it set for 24 hrs Then I putthe shaft back onto the tub put the agataters back on, then put the outer shell with the new bearings back in place connected the hoses, the weights, the switches, the wire clips,the motor,hooked up the springs ,inserted the tub, put the drive wheel back on the shaft then the belt , then put all the front panels back and IT ALL WORKED. total cost $36.00 for bearings $53.00 for the seal kit so about $90.00 total & two weeks at about a couple of hours a day .shure beats $650.00 + $300.00 at a repair facility . GOOD LUCK .IAN

One of the drum baffle's boke from it's mount

  • Customer: James from Raton NM
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old broken plastic grommet's and installed two new plastic grommet's. Attached new baffle using old screws. Used a short piece of picture frame wire to install the two new grommets by fishing them into place with out removing the washer drum.

had a rip in the bellow

  • Customer: william from moses lake WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
easy remove the front panel it just pops off unscrew the top and lift up. you have a few pieces to remove then press the old rubber out and install new, i had a little trouble lining up the hardest part was putting the cable ban back on with the spring, i needed help from a friend. now the tub seal was not needed but with it apart I went ahead and changed it the clips were hard to snap on,:you need strong fingers to do that! reassemble as you took it apart. washer works fine no leaks, and alot cheaper than a new washer. thanks to parts select for the right parts MICK KEATING

Bearings making loud rough noise

  • Customer: Gregory from El Dorado AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Thanks to all the others who gave detailed information I was able to replace the front & rear bearings and front seal. I must say it was a time comsuming job but at least I am alot clearer on the quality of clothes washing machines. I do believe I could give a manufacturer / designer some design points after working on this Maytag Neptune. I was able to knock out the bearing shaft that held the stainless perforated tumbler inside the plastic tub/drum by using a #3 LB hammer I reinstalled the old screw in the shaft which held the plastic pully on because this would keep the end of the shaft from being damaged. After several blows it started moving I was afraid I might damage the plastic drum but fortunately no damage was done to it. After removing the stainless steel perforated tumbler here is where it really got interesting. The Hub that held the old seal was shot! pretty much deteorated from corosion it seems. Here is where I could significantly help a manufactured/designer out The bearing/seal hub should have been made out of stainless instead of Pot metal/ aluminum or whatever they made it from. After much cleaning with a small wire brush and vacuming all the debree out of the Tub I didn't have much hub left to install the new seal. Also the three armed Spinner was very coroaded it attaches to the back of the stainless tumbler I removed it from the stainless tumbler and wire brushed it the back side was full of crud, it looked like left over washing powder or soap and Corosion debree it was a job just cleaning it up. I pressed on and on though replacing both bearings front and rear. Thanks to another person who explained the easy way to remove the bearings and race I was able to do so without removing the Drum/Tub as others stated they had to do. The Dremmel and a few Cutter blades did the trick I cut a wide V notch in the bearings and the bearings fell out I then cut through the bearing race being careful not to cut too deeply although if you did slightly cut beyond the race it really wouldn't matter because the front seal will keep it from leaking anyway. Anyway when I cut through the race it made a ping sound and the race pulled away and fell right out of the HuB. The front & rear bearings a definately serviceable and it doesn't have to be a beat/bang ordeal. after cleaning up the hub I tapped the new bearings in place and discarded the metal spacer that went inside the middle of hub. I then brainstormed on how I could install the new Lip Seal upgrade and then it dawned on me that since the inner Hub that holds the seal was so far gone and only enough left to barely hold the new seal in I remembered the ole saying Don't Discard just use JB Stick or JB Quick I used JB Stick to fill in around the new seal because it is supposed to bond to metal and it did just that I pressed the putty in quickly before it hardened bringing it out even with the plastic drum where the origional hub should have been and made the repair to the deteriorated Hub so that the Seal would stay in place it Worked! This Maytag Neptune was given to me by my mother in-law she did not want to wait on the repair after I tried to previously repair the problem with it I just did not delv deeply enough into the problem with this washingmachine at first. I previously removed both Pumps thinking they were not pumping all the water out because the Towels especially were staying soaked. Both the pumps were nasty with alot of debree inside of them now I know that because of the deteriorated Seal Hub on the inside had done the dirty work. The Pumps can be easily taken apart only a few screws and the plastic impeller can be gently pried off also that is where I found alot of particles from the deteoriated Seal Hub I then reinstalled the pumps and they worked fine pumped out the water. Then that is when I noticed it wasn't cycling properly also Ha Ha I thought to myself what else could possibly be wrong with this washing machine? Thanks to Parts Select site I wa

bearing replacement

  • Customer: Frank from Streator IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 7 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I haven't finished the job yet. I was very surprised and very happy with how fast PartSelect got my part to me. I ordered a lip seal kit (maytag neptune bearing replacement) in the morning, and the very next day it arrived at my door. I'm very impressed. I have everything cleaned up and ready for the new parts. I just have to finish.

Thanks for the speedy service. I'll be highly recommending PartSelect.

Frank

Dispenser lid was cracked

  • Customer: Theodore from Chester Springs PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed four screws using elctric srew driver.
Pulled the old lid out and installed the new one.

The inner door was dammage with a hole so we needed a new inner door.

  • Customer: Trang-Dai from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the ten screws to the inner door to remove it. There are components in the inner door that we didn't think would be there. Take out the components on the inside of the inner door. The areas where the ten screws go in have the small metal plates that we needed to be transferred to the new inner door. Otherwise the screws will not fit. It flips out. That's the part that took us a while to figure out but it came out easily. The other parts snaps on and off after the two screws are removed.

Just remember what you removed and where it should go. It takes two people to do the work.

seal went out bearings also had to be replaced

  • Customer: Robin from Wagoner AL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 6 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Had to remove the tub. Tha bearings had to be removed from the drum. After installing the new bearings(which are available @ O'rReilly's) the seal was't bad

The door lock error -- cycle not completing

  • Customer: Doug from Rescue CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
The door was not shutting easily and the plastic receptacle in the door latch assembly was difficult to move. I removed the front cover by removing the door and the hinge covers on the other side of the door hinges, pulled off the front cover, and unscrewed the vertical bolts that hold the top in the front corners. Also removed the soap dispenser (4) screws so the top would lift to allow access to the door latch assembly bolts. These two bolts were removed, the wire plugs undone and the latch assembly replaced. Installation in reverse order. The troubleshooting guide explained why the cycle would still not complete after the latch replacement: There was a little water in the washer and I had to run the spin cycle to drain it. Then it worked normally.

Old seal had torn in several places

  • Customer: John from Belen NM
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the steps on the first post which are very good. I had trouble, however, putting the seal over the drum. I finally removed the plastic rim to the drum by removing the clips. I was then able to lay the rim on the floor and put the new seal over it more easily. It is a lot like putting a bicycle tire on a rim. I had no helpers so I used a vice grip pliers on one end of the cable-spring and another pliers on the other. I was then able to pull both ends together enough to get them to hook up. I recommend removing the plastic rim as I mention above. Had I done this first, I would have done the job in less than 30 minutes.

Inner door skin worn from carpet backing rubbing in spin cycle.

  • Customer: Richard from Seminole FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Ordered part from PARTSELECT.COM, super fast shipping, next day actually, via fed ex. Part was exact replacement with no surprises. Swapped out internal parts snapped door lid cover in and was doing a wash in 15 minutes start to finish.

the inner door was leaking

  • Customer: William from Downers Grove IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First I remove the 2 screws that hold the door on then put it on the table on a towel not to scratch the door and unscrewed the inner door and changed it out easy stuff.

water leaking on the floor.

  • Customer: john from st helen MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the door on the washer,and pushed on inner tub upward.it moved about 1 inch and the I knew tub bearings where shot .So I removed all components and repaced the outer tub with new bearing pack.. NOTE... Not an easy repair..but when i finished i had no probems with water leakage.ALL GOOD.
All Instructions for the MAH6500AWW
46-60 of 165