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Models > MAH55FLBWW > Instructions

MAH55FLBWW Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for MAH55FLBWW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the MAH55FLBWW
31-45 of 172
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door boot seal was all milldew

  • Customer: gary from tecumseh, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Unpluged washer. Removed screws from front and removed door. Removed one more screw on each side and was able to remove front panel, and also lift the top. The boot seal was held in place with a wire and a spring. I unhooked the spring and removed the wire and then removed the old boot seal. I then proceeded to reverse the steps to put it all back together. It took me almost 4 hours. I also used the picture on your web sight to see how things were put together. It really helped a lot.

Bearings making noise.

  • Customer: James from Greer, SC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
If you are using the newer style seal be sure the taper part of the seal is toward the front of the machine. Installing it backward will ruin the seal and burn up the motor and or controller. The seal installation tool will fit on the side oppsite the taper. It will require a helper to hold the drum support while torquing the nut on the pulley. Better instruction would help too.

The door lock error -- cycle not completing

  • Customer: Doug from Rescue, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The door was not shutting easily and the plastic receptacle in the door latch assembly was difficult to move. I removed the front cover by removing the door and the hinge covers on the other side of the door hinges, pulled off the front cover, and unscrewed the vertical bolts that hold the top in the front corners. Also removed the soap dispenser (4) screws so the top would lift to allow access to the door latch assembly bolts. These two bolts were removed, the wire plugs undone and the latch assembly replaced. Installation in reverse order. The troubleshooting guide explained why the cycle would still not complete after the latch replacement: There was a little water in the washer and I had to run the spin cycle to drain it. Then it worked normally.

Had a leak at the top of one of the valve

  • Customer: Paul from Winnetka, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Ordered the new part from Part Select had very prompt shipment (2 days) printed out someone elses review and followed their steps and it was even easier than they had written so if you get this part simply print the only other "steps" listed because their correct. The only addition i would say is you can use a "nut driver" for the screws as well as the hose clamp which makes it simpler, and definitely mark where you remove the connections so they go back in the same location. Also it may be advisable to remove the big "drum cover" to get easier access to the water hose since it's a little short and difficult to get back on the new valve through the inlet valve hole.It should take you about 15 min to do

Drive belt sqeaked and contiued to roll off the drum.

  • Customer: Douglas from Marion, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Removed washer back panel (after unplugging unit). Installed new belt. Reinstalled back panel. Belt wAs very tight getting it to roll onto the drum.

Failed bearings cause by a failed lip seal

  • Customer: Thomas from Olathe, KS
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First of all, let me say that the Lip Seal Kit was delivered the next day after my order and that I was encourged to attempt the repair by the owners repair procedure response. The lip seal in my machine must have failed along time ago as I have been living with noisy bearings for at least the last twelve months. Disassembly of the machine was straight forward following the Part Select instructions. The lip seal was so disintegrated it hard to tell what originally looked like. Lots of rust and gunk in lip seal area. After removing the snap ring behind the rear bearing I was able to drive out the rear bearing using a brass 3/4" drift pin and a two# hammer. I than attemped to remove the front bearing using a 1 1/2" steel pipe that matched up to the inner race of the front bearing and my trusty hammer. Nothing I did could budge that bearing. Since the outer tube is suspended by springs and struts I decided that lot of hammer energy is absored by springs and my best solution was to remove the outer tub. I then used a couple pieces of U channel steel(this could be steel pipe or some 2X4's) that were longer than the depth of the tub and positioned them to contact metal bearing tub insert. These supports were mounted in small Workmate vise setting on the garage floor and using the 1 1/2" steel pipe I drove the inside bearing out. After some general clean up I picked up some bearings at the local distributor for $42.00. Re-assembly takes a little planning as you need to hold the steel insert betwwen the bearings and keep it lined up in the bore. I think the best way is to install the rear bearing first and install the snap ring. I then put the steel ring in place and held it with cardboard insert from a paper towel roll. The cardboard roll was cut about 2 1/2" long and cut lenght wise to insert though the rear bearing and held in place with tape. The front bearing was then tapped into place followed by the lip seal. Note that if you install the front bearing first and seat it all the way in, the rear bearing will contact the steel insert and not allow enough room to get the snap ring in place. When I was done I didn't have any parts leftover and thru six washing machine loads peace and quiet has returned to my house. Hope it last. Note: If you elect to remove the outer tub you might want to take some pictures so you can see how it all is supposed to look before you close the hood.

washer would not drain water

  • Customer: deb from new madison, OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
my husband took the old part off. order the new part thru your company...3 days later the part came in. then he reattached thee part to the hoses with the champs and we said alittle pray and i had my washer back

The door wouldn't stay shut after starting machine.

  • Customer: Dee from Redding, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
First I remove the the four screws surounding the front door. Then I took off the front panl cover. This give axcess to the nuts that needed to be removed to lift the top panl. Once the top panl was lifted up (not removed) then I was able to unscrew the door latch that was broken and replace it with the new one. I replaced one conected wire at a time so that I wouldn't get them mixed up. After that it was then easy to put back together! It works great now! Saved me from having to go out and buy new ones or to have a repair man come over. Cost me under eighty bucks! I was very happy! Thanks PartsSelect.com!

Front bearings totally destroyed rear bearings rusted out

  • Customer: john from richland, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I found your site where other people worked on their washers . I removed the front & rear panels. at the front I found that removing the rubber tub seal was easy, then I removed the 3 agitaters that cover the nuts that hold the tub to the support drive shaft ,I saved the plastic shims nuts & washers then removed the tub,I removed the drive wheel, I put the bolt & washers back in the shaft end & knocked it out with a 1lb hammer.I removed the motor and all the hoses also the front & rear WeightsI left the switches connected to the wires, for everything I removed including screws I taped them all to the parts that they camefrom .Then I knocked out the rear bearing with a 8" long 1/2'dia.piece of steel rod taking care to drive evenly around the circomference of the bearing. the front bearing was in 2 pieces with the bearings in a pile inside the hub because of the spacer between the bearings there was not a lot of bearing to hit but eventually it came out I saved the spacer & the rear bearing clip & cleaned them up for reuse.The face of the crap metal insert was badly corroded ,I cleaned it and all surfaces inside the hub with a wire brush in my drillmotor I found bearings at an industrial store and found NO problem matching the old bearings I ordered the lipseal kit from Part select It came with 2 seals & dubious instrutions I found the revised seal did not fit my support shaft but the other one did ,it comes in 2 parts that are stuck together with grease pry them apart with e small screw driver. I then tapped the new bearings in rear first then the spacer. then the front bearing I tapped it in enough to get it started then I inserted a cardboard toilet roll center folded enough to go in through the spacer & the rear bearing this lined up the parts so the shaft will go throughafter the bearings & new seal were in I used a marine silicon to put over the corroded face & made shure that it snugged up to the seal ,sealing it good I let it set for 24 hrs Then I putthe shaft back onto the tub put the agataters back on, then put the outer shell with the new bearings back in place connected the hoses, the weights, the switches, the wire clips,the motor,hooked up the springs ,inserted the tub, put the drive wheel back on the shaft then the belt , then put all the front panels back and IT ALL WORKED. total cost $36.00 for bearings $53.00 for the seal kit so about $90.00 total & two weeks at about a couple of hours a day .shure beats $650.00 + $300.00 at a repair facility . GOOD LUCK .IAN

replace rubber door seal on front load washer

  • Customer: cynthia from naperville, IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
On the Maytag front load washer, we found the easiest way was to unscrew and lift the top of the washer up, then take off the door, and front panel. Removing the old seal (moldy) was easy, but to replace the new one you need to see what you are doing. (Reaching up blindly to slip the new seal around AND connect the spring, is near impossible.) It was not hard to do...IF you can see what you are doing. You need access to attach the drain tube, make sure the gasket is slid in place (with notches in line with openings) slip the cable around and attach the spring. Everything is easy IF you can see what you are doing (and a little muscle to pull the spring and connect it).

Leak in the boot seal around the return drain

  • Customer: Joe from York Town, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Using a screw driver I removed the 4 screws that hold the front panel and door on allowing me to remove the front panel and door. I removed the spring clamp from the drain hose and removed the drain hose. I removed the 4 screws holding the detergent access door on the top and removed the door alllowing me to tilt the top up and back. Now both sides of the seal were exposed. The front side of the seal is easily pulled loose and the back side is held on with a cable and spring tensioner. The spring and cable slipped of freeing the seal. I installed the back side of the seal paying attention to the alignment "ticks" in the seal and washer. I installed the cable assembly and spring using pliers to pull the spring into place. The front edge was pushed into place. I installed the drain hose and spring clamp, lowered the top into place, installed the detergernt access door with the 4 screws, and installed the front panel and door using the 4 screws. The only trick wwas getting the back edge spring tensioner in place. It took 3 tries over ~ 10 minutes. All other items were very easy. I watched the first load wash to be sure the seal did not come off.

the boot seal holding the drum to the front panel leaked

  • Customer: Melissa from Juno, AK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I replaced the boot seal. I unscrewed and took off the front door and front panel; I unscrewed and removed the detergent compartment; unbolted and lifted up the top panel. I removed the old worn out gasket and replaced the anterior (door side) portion first, then the posterior portion. the door side pushes right in by hand but I used a putty spatula to firmly seat it evenly in place. For ease of closing the spring loaded wire on the posterior portion of the gasket, one person held one end of the wire and gasket in place and a 2nd held the other side in place and pulled the spring with pliers to connect and seal the gasket. replacing the boot seal requires 1 person, but having a 2nd person around to help with the spring was helpful. this was an easy project that takes about an hour.

Boot torn

  • Customer: Joel from Pittsboro, IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the 2 screws holding the door and then the balance of the screws holding the front section on. Removed the trim piece and then the screws holding the detergent tub and top of the washer. Once the boot was exposed I used two pair of pliers to hold either end of the retainer strap and pushed together to relieve the spring tension. Then disconnected the drain hose from the bottom of the boot and removed the boot. Re-assembly was just a reverse of the disassembly and much easier than I anticipated. Placing the boot around the fron of the tub was like putting a bycycle innertube on a rim. Once you get it completely on then you place the retainer strap around the boot and attach by hooking the spring to one end and pulling the spring toward the other. (better if two people do that part but can be done by one) The front of the boot slides into the slots fairly easy and then you simply re-connect the drain tube in the front of the boot and reassemble the cabinet.

Machine would not wash

  • Customer: Donald from Holtsville, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I took off the front cover, lifted the top, removed old door latch assembly and replaced wire for wire; put the washer back together. The part came in great time and it was a no-brainer. The appliance repair man sold my wife a bill of goods and basically lied to her. Word to the wise, "An appliance repairman who can come at your calling is one to be careful of, most good repairman are busy and it may take a day or two come over."

Pump would not pump water from washer drum

  • Customer: David from Watervliet, MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
It was very easy to do. I took the back cover off. I dissconected two hoses. disconnected one wire. removed a small plastic bag (cover over wires). turned the pump 1/4 turn.and reversed this process with the new pump. It took me 15 minutes to remove and replace. Put the washer thru a cycle and it worked!
All Instructions for the MAH55FLBWW
31-45 of 172