Enter the code DIYDAD10 at checkout to apply your discount. Discount will be applied at checkout when the code is entered & applies to all parts. Cannot be combined with any other coupon or special offer & cannot be applied to a previously placed order. Not valid toward tax or shipping & handling. Discount has no cash value. Discount expires on June 17 at 11:59pm EST.
You've Got 10% Off Your First Order!Save 10% with code at checkout *click to copy coupon code
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
burnt out bake element
unscrewed two screws put in new element replaced two screws done, recieved the element within days of order,it was the right part,couldn't have been happier with the service from parts select thank you.
Ordered the part Friday afternoon. It was delivered early on Saturday afternoon. Very impressed with the speed of the delivery! Power off, unscrew the old part, replace, screw the plate back on. Easy!
Old element arced bigtime so we figured it was time - 18 years old!
I read other other posts and followed their advice. Remove the 2 screws holding the element to the back of the oven...gently pull it out about 3" to reveal the connecting wires. I found the needle nose pliers were necessary to detach and reattach the wires. Don't yank! Be aware that the wires have a tendency to want to pull back into the back of the oven while they're loose. This was a wall oven and that woul've been a large problem if they they had. Otherwise it was a snap!
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires fom the old element .. connected them to the new element ... put the screws back ...and tested. problem solved
removed 2 screws . pulled out the 2 wires and disconect them. took out the element. Put the new element in and hooked the wires up. placed the metal bracket to the back and put in the 2 screw and turned it on and it worked like new. Brenda
When the oven was on we noticed the bake element had a 1 inch section that was bright red. Upon closer inspection, after the oven was off and the element cool, corrosion like damage was apparent where the element had been bright red.
Naturally the oven turned was off but for added safety I also set the breaker protecting the oven to the off position. Where the element attaches to the oven there is a small plate with two screws holding the element in position. Remove these two screws and then gently pull the element out 2-3 inches, which will expose the electrical connection. Using needle nose pliers gently pull on one of the wires to remove it from the element. Now remove the other and discard the old element. Simply plug the new element into those wires and screw the plate back into the oven. Now turn the breaker back on and you're done. Super easy!
I trouble shot and traced out to electrical short in face panel and found burnt wires. I've been a licensed electrician for years and it takes alot of comon sense to trouble shoot and find problem. I found schetch-matic of appliance and searched computor and found partselect.com and tried it. It wasnt no time and the part was at my door. Thank you partselect and i would use them again in the future. billy
DISCONNECTED POWER AND GAS TO THE RANGE. REMOVED 6 SCREWS FROM REAR OF THE RANGE. REMOVED THE 2 SCREWS HOLDING THE TEMPERATURE SENSOR IN PLACE. DISCONNECTED THE LEAD FOR THE SENSOR. INSTALLED NEW SENSOR IN REVERSE ORDER. OVEN WORKING PROPERLY NOW.
Loosen 2 screws and put new part in and tighten 2 screws. After putting in new sensor stove gave me another code had new part in 5 min and part select would not take my part back.
Oven was overheating and locking the door. Codes indicated the temperature sensor could be the issue.
Only one screwdriver needed for this simple repair. Unfortunately for me it did not repair my oven and a new code on the oven indicated a bigger problem with computer board. Part Select was great to work with and accepted a return and promptly refunded me for the part. Thank you!
Surface Element switch faulty with no control on heat
Turned power completely off. Removed knob from front panel. Opened range top cover. Removed 3 screws from aluminum panel protector behind the element switch. Once panel is removed you can see the switch element. Remove 2 screws from the front panel that connects to the element switch. Remove the old element and replace with new element making sure that each of the 5 wires on the old element is transferred one by one to the new element. Reverse the process in putting it all together. Turn on the power and walla you've have a new stove. You just save $600 plus.
The old part, including lightbulb and socket, had corroded into place, and the glass light cover was stuck to the socket. I used a dead blow hammer and a dowel just under the diameter of the hole to tap on the back side of the socket to loosen it and get it out. The metal tabs on the old socket were folded back to make it fit better (?), which made it harder to remove. Lots of muscling of the part to get it out. Easy to install new part once old one was out of the way. An experienced person would have removed the old part and installed the new in no time.
Replaced the oven light with a new one but it burnt out as soon as I turned it on. Therefore I decided a new socket may help.
My whirlpool apparently has the old style socket which is pictured in partselect part #PS12584564. The old style socket has to two metal arms that retain it against the metal reflector.
The part that will come (#PS12584564) however is the new style that whirlpool has changed to, apparently. It is not as pictured. The socket and the reflector have different retention devices.
I used screw drivers to bend the two metal arms away to release the socket. Then I had to use allen wrenches to bend the reflector's retention tabs away.
Once I had the old socket, reflector, and lens replaced I just followed the video on partselect for part #PS12584564
I found the received switch (PS12070192) a poor replacement for the original, or even the earlier replaced part (PS11744446, in 2016) I was going to replace since the press/return feature seemed slow to return.
The male spade lugs on the received switch are so positioned that engagement is only possible if the lug is bent out at a large angle. The lug set-back from the body edge, and the raised ribs on the sides still prevent full engagement of the connections.
I did install the new switch but found that was the only switch that didn’t give a signal light when turned on.