LWC07AW (PLWC07AW) Amana Washer - Instructions

Removed the front panel, could see water leaking from the tub area near the shaft in the center of the machine. Dripping out once the water level reached the hub. Swing the top up, remove the large plastic ring at top of tub. remove the top of the agitor, pulls off easily. Remove the agitator with a firm pull up, not as easy but does come off. Removed the 4 bolt holding the tub. 2 broke off, but not to worry, the new kit has a complete hub. Pulled off the bell seal, pry up. Used an impact gun with 1-1/2" socket to remove the nut. The hub was frozen to the shaft. Tried a puller but ended up breaking the hub. I finally cut it off in pieces and pryed it off (the hardest part of job). Cleaned up the spline with a small file and patience. Installed the new seal kit. Ended up buying the M800 3M sealant on line. I went this far, another $40 for that. Fitted it all back up per instructions. No leaks. All good.

Pretty easy repair ... especially after reading previous owners instructions and experiences. After unplugging unit from power and shutting off water supply - 1) Remove front panel. 2) Remove small tensioner spring. 3) Disconnect power connector to motor. 4) Disconnect two water hoses from pump (place towel underneath to catch water). 5) Remove 4 large bolts holding motor assembly to frame. 6) Slide off spin belt from tub pulley. 7) Remove motor assembly. Pump and belt are attached. 8) Take to workbench. Note orientation of belt wrt pump. 9) Loosen and remove 3 star head screws (I used a drill bit and drill). 10) Slide pump off motor shaft. Mine came off clean and easy. 11) Remove belt. It's good to order the belt with the pump and replace them both. My belt was pretty chewed up and I'm glad I had a replacement. 12) Attach new belt and pump, being mindful of belt route. 13) Re-attach motor assembly, threading belt around large pulley. 14) Attach water hoses and motor connector. 15) Attach belt tensioner spring. Test on a short cycle....if all is well, close it up and you're done. Took me about 45 minutes.

Put new motor in, and it did the same thing as old motor. Obviously, motor wasn't the problem. Looking for answers on what the problem could be.

remove motor and pump togather 4 bolts holding unhook two hose unplug electrial connector and slide out remove 3 screws holding pump to motor be aware of direction belt from moter to tub then place new pump back at same location as old pump replace motor with pump attached back to same location as begfor

With the right tools this job, should not be that complicated, to me the hardest part was finding the right tools, 1/4 inch small rachet ( the smallest the better,) with a 2 inch extension and a Torx head socket, also known as a 6 lobe,(T25 thats the # that is on the socket) also you need a flat head screw driver,or a 1/4 socket to take the cover off.. and of course the right belt, you might also need a flash light, watch out for spiders, specially black widows, i found a few, First you take the cover off, it should be the easiest part, then, put the rachet,( the smallest the better) with the 2 inch extension and the socket, to take out the water pump, it should be white, it should be only three screws, take your time, when taking out the screws hold them so they don't fall, in to the whasher, it happened to me and it took me a long time to find one of the screws, once you take the 3 screws move the water pump aside it should just drop down from the shaft that drives it, it is not necessary to take the hoses off the pump, put the new belt in place, make sure place it trough the tensioner, there is a guide in the AMANA web site when if you are not so sure, on how the belt goes, once you place the belt, put the water pump back, put the three screws back, put the cover back, run the machine trough a new cycle, Reason why is because i try to run it trough the spin cycle only after i put it together and the belt wouldn't spin, only the motor,Don't forget to unplug the power from the wall before staring all this, I hope this was of some help to you,

I read everyone else's stories and tried this for myself. I am by no means a handy person. This was extremely easy and took me about 10 minutes. I would suggest to everyone to try this for themselves if they have the same problem as I did. Anyone can do this.

Removed lower front cover--two screws. Removed motor/pump assembly after disconnecting electric and water hoses. Seperated pump from motor. Installed belt, then reconnected pump to motor. Reinstalled motor/pump assembly, while rotating belt onto drum pulley. Reinstalled eclectric and water hoses. Buttoned front cover back up. Done.

You tubed this procedure and it took 20 min.

The new hose was exactly like the one I removed. It was simply a matter of putting the new hose through the back, replacing the hose clamp, take the piece off the old hose that makes the bend in the hose to go in the wall drain. Replace the lower front panel with two screws and I was done.

After pulling front lower panel off, disconnected idler pulley spring and left side tub stabilizer spring to allow room to get motor out the front. Took belt off transmision pulley, unbolted 4 motor mount bolts, dropped the motor/pump assembly down and disconnected the electrical plug (motor). Took motor/pump assembly out, flipped it over, unbolted 3 pump bolts to remove old pump, which came right off. Then reversed the whole process. Pretty straightforward, just time.

Replaced the inlet mixing valve. Two screws and two electrical plug ins and you are done.

thought wire between hot and cold valve was to short but after many phone calls found out valve could be ajusted by prying carefully up clips and moving valve closer not in directions

knife to losen top, remove rear tabs securing top, unplug electical from timer and switches, unplug front door wiring, 2 bolts remove front, lift front pannel to remove. tape belt on drum on top. under drum you can see the belt around worn pulley. lift idler pulley assembly, remove belt from pulley, snap ring holds pulley in place remove woren pulley, install new, replace snap ring, restring belt. remove tape. spin drum to assure alignment. reassemble.

My Amana washing machine burned up a second belt in about three weeks. Prior to that, the spin cycle was very loud. Online research revealed the problem was most likely the hub bearing. I ordered a new bearing, belt and hub and seal kit. The repair is a difficult one as the parts have been on the tranmission shaft many years with the mounting corrosion and mineral build up. I was able to pull the agitator off with no problem. The drive bell would have been easier to pull had I used a gear puller but did not own one. I use two crow bars to lift it off the shaft and I knew I'd be replacing it anyway so was not concerned about damaging it although I didn't. The most difficult part to remove was the large hex nut. I didn't want to purchase the tool to remove it so I used an open end adjustable wrench adn a hammer to remove it. However it took many hours of soaking the nut in sprayed on WD-40 to loosen it. For a while I thought it wasn't going to budge. Oh and btw, the nut comes off counterclockwise on this model. This is important. Other makes of washers have left handed threads, requiring clockwise removal, but this one does not. The hub assembly was pulled using the crow bar method. Again, it was going to be replaced anyway. The lint filter was cleaned and reused. The remainder of the dissassembly went OK using the directions in the repair manual. http://www.scribd.com/doc/8677902/Amana-Top-Load-Washer-Service-Manual. Reassembly went fine using the repair manual accept that the new drive bell was much more difficult to drive onto the shaft than I thought it would be. I eventually got it on using my shop vac rigid tube to go around it and hammering on a block of wood placed on top of it. I also used this shop vac tube to seat the seal that goes on the shaft just before the drive bell. It was the perfect tool for it as I wasn't going to purchase the special tool suggested in the repair manual. I'd already purchased $185 in parts. The kits come with grease but not the anti seizure compound or the industrial sealant needed. The anti seisure compound can be purchased from an auto parts store. It's not expensive. The industrial sealant is expensive. After researching what it was and why it was needed, I took a chance on silicone sealant. I'm not suggesting it is a good substitute but my washer has not leaked after 5 loads. Plus the sealant is really a backup to the main seal that goes on the transmission shaft before the hub assembly. But I'm pleased overall with the parts and accompanying directions and the washer is working great, spinning quietly. This is not an easy repair. It takes patience and a place to work on it. Frankly, with other things to do as well as go to work, it took me four days to complete, mostly due to the difficulty in removing the large hex nut. It might be worth investing in the removal tool if you're unsuccessful using home tools. Good luck.

The hardest part was removing the tub from washer by myself. I simply removed the bolts holding the sides to the bottom of the unit and lifted it straight off. Be careful when you remove the springs from the drum so they don't spring back and puncture the drain line. Thank you RTV gasket maker. Once the drum was free from the base, i tilted the drum back exposing the pump housing. I used a pair of pliers to remove both drain lines then removed the 3 hex screws freeing the pump. I had no problem removing it from the motor shaft, it slipped right off. I put everything back together as easily as it came apart.