LWA20AW (PLWA20AW) Amana Washer - Instructions

Hardest thing was moving washing machine away from wall. Two screws on panel. One screw for hose.

After receiving the new hose we replaced the hose and tested the washer by running a rinse cycle. The new hose fixed the problem.

checked for unbalanced load. still banging. removed lower front panel by removing 2 screws. then removed front top panel- 2 more screws. turned unit on spin cycle to see what was going on. this is dangerous as many moving parts are exposed, so keep everything clear. banging was the tensioner slamming back and forth. unpluged washer from outlet and felt along the belt to find part of the 'v' shaped balt had come part, leaving a gap in the "v". ordered part.when i got the part, i removed 4 larger bolts that held the motor, pully, and pump. i unplugged the wires for the motor, and removed the belt from the bsket side pulley assembly by slipping it off and under the shaft. i removed the torx screws that held the pump on the motor and removed the belt. PAY ATTENTION to how the belt was in between the pully and pump assembly or you will have to remove and redo it. reassemble the pump over the belt, pully, motor, and put the belt on the drum side pully before bolting it to the washing machine. it is fairly heavy and tight, so you might need help. this was not hard and you do not need to take apart the washer except for the two front panels and the motor assembly. i just pulled the unit away from the wall and tipped it back to access the inside. take your time and pay attention, and make sure it is not plugged into the wall and you should be fine.

Followed video on PartsSelect website, they made it real easy.

I used my three jaw slide hammer to remove the pump from the motor. How are other people getting it off? Pump made alot of rubbing noise after installation. I tried pushing it on farther and also prying it back off a little with no luck. It's really cheap looking and I was scared of breaking it. The thing wasn't leaking so I called it good....

This washer was "professionally" repaired six months ago....that being said, I found two of the three Torx screws holding the pump to the motor to be lying inside the cabinet. This allowed the pump to move and wallow out the seal. Replaced the pump and replaced the screws correctly. No leaks, no problems. Pump is an exact replacement from PartSelect and ease of installation was no problem. Would suggest if you are going to replace the pump, order the three screws and replace them too.

Screw broke lose in agitator from drive bell stripped (plastic) for transmission gear. Received new Drive Bell and had to lightly cut out old from Agitator housing with saws all, cleaned years of soap build up on steel spline with wire grinder, lubed the Drive Bell inter and pounded on to spline gear with rubber mallet, I thought a bit too much force but what the heck I landed to the same bearing point as before. Work Out Great.

Water inlet valve was different than the one shown on web photo. The hose supplied was the wrong size so I had to use the original old hose. Wire harness had to be modified since the electrodes were on opposite sides of the valve. Overall I was disappointed with the part and the service.

Replacing the spin belt is like the others have said, but I'll add a couple of cautions. Don't try to separate the driven pulley on the water pump from the pump shaft. Instead, separate the water pump from the driven pulley. And, make sure you know the routing of the belt for reassembly, because it has to go between the correct legs that support the water pump. Get it wrong and you'll have to start all over. I pulled the machine away from the wall by about 18" and put a block of wood under the front of the machine to raise only the front to 9" or 10" off the floor which made it easier to do the work. Try and take a digital photo of the belt routing from a couple of angles before beginning. Don't forget to route the belt around the tensioner pulley.

removed screws holding upper cover, removed screws holding lower cover, removed screws holding timer in place. unplug old timer, plug in new one, reassembled. Easiest thing I did all day and saved several hundred dollars!! Will certainly order from part select in the future.

Replaced the mixing value using the kit purchased from PartSelect. The instructions with the kit plus the installation tips found on their WEB Page were extremely helpful. Everything went as predicted except I had to cut and insert a new piece of wire on the white wire between the hot and cold electrical connections. I used two crimp connectors to lengthen the wire. This was a very simple job for a 73 year old man like me. Thank you for the tips and quick delivery of the mixer value kit.

Replaced the timer and it worked fine then. Was going to replace the washer due to it's age, but checking with you guys about the problem and replacing the timer saved me a bunch of $$$!
Thanks for all of your help!

removed both hot and cold fill lines and front of washer panel. removed screw holding mix valve plate t the back of the washer . Unpluged connections to mix valve and replaced valve. ( note removing the top of the washer is needed and can only be done by first removing the front by sliding a thin screw driver between the top and front panel to release the clips at the ends.)

Removed old hose by sqeezing clamps and sliding off of fittings. Placed clamps on new hose. Slid hose on fittings. Repositioned clamps over end of hose. Job done.

Basically you have to remove the drive motor and pump (in that order). This allows you to get the belt around the drive motor pully wheel. It took me a few tries to get the belt routed right. I assume that if you know what you are doing you can complete this in under an hour. It took me about 4 hours, though - cause I didn't know what I was doing at first. Hehe.

Hope this helps.