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LSD2615HEZ Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for LSD2615HEZ parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LSD2615HEZ
31-45 of 697
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Icemaker arm was broken

  • Customer: Jason from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
The tiny piece of plastic that holds the wire that shuts off the icemaker, broke early on with our fridge (after just a few months.) We superglued it, but last week it bit the dust for good.

Once I got this part, I removed the freezer door and trays, and pulled the icemaker out by removing 3 flathead screws and unplugging the cables. Laying in the freezer on the floor was a bit unconfortable, but not too bad.

Then I inspected the icemaker. There was no obvious way to remove the part without disassembling the front of the unit (where the motor is) to release the spindle and free the part, so I did that - 3 or 4 nuts was all that held it together. Once that was out, I removed the spindle, swapped out the part, and put it all back together and back in the freezer. Plugged it in and waited.

It took a while to start making ice. Like 5 hours. Now it's going pretty slow (much slower than before.) Haven't had time to look into it, but my suspicion is the rubber hose that feeds water into the icemaker is blocked with ice or kinked. In any case, we have ice now (but not a lot), and the unit shuts itself off properly. However, we went from having too much ice (thing never shut off) to too little (thing makes ice too slow), so I need to shoot for somewhere in the middle ;)

Freezer gets ice on coils and Refrigerator gets warm!!

  • Customer: ANTOINETTE from BALTIMORE MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I defrosted the ice from the freezer coils with a blow dryer and then removed the back panel from the freezer and I change the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat, I believe that being I am a woman and not really knowing what I was doing, (only what I read on PartSelect) that it took me as long as it did...Once I realize what I had to do, it was over in a jiffy....So far the Refrig and Freezer seem to be working fine..

The evap motor failed (no air movement inside of refrierater

  • Customer: John from Flagstaff AZ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Removed screws from cover tested for power to motor found power was on to motor but motor did not work. I went to your web site was able to locate part in about 5 minutes . Even with over night shipping the part came to about $50,00, far cheaper tha a service call would have been.

Thanks John Paulsell

Would not make ice.

  • Customer: Stephen from Lanse MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I changed out the water valve behind the refrigerator that controls when the ice maker and water dispencer receives water. It was easy. I removed the lower back panel to get access to the valve. Pulled the hoses out by pushing up on the ring between the valve and hose and the hose came right out. I disconected the power lines. Of course the water was disconected and power plug out prior to starting the job. I replaced the valve and reconnected the lines and power. I put the back panel back in place and turned the water on to check for leaks. The next day I had ice in the ice maker.

overload relay switch/bad compressor--buzzing sound, ends with click, retries

  • Customer: Nathan from Garland TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Remove back cover. Disconnect power. Pull out overload switch off compressor. Remove capacitor. The overload switch i ordered came with instructions. What took the most time was figuring out if i dared installing it the way i thought best. The instructions, in my instance, were incorrect. My overload switch didn't have a terminal #1. Long story short, i looked at the circuit diagram it came with, and based on process of elimination based on terminal sizes, I put it together. But the instructions weren't accurate. All in all for the average DIY, not a bad repair at all. I am still afraid that my problem is the compressor, b/c even after the new part is installed it still occasionally tries starting but can't, and keeps retrying until it does. It is either a faulty relay switch or a faulty compressor. We'll see which one wins.

Old Icemaker noisy and stopped making Ice

  • Customer: Daniel from Rhinelander WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 15 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
The old icemaker had a bad motor and would stall in the fill cycle causing my kitchen to flood on occasion.

The new one was so quiet, I thought it didn't work!

Anyway, one nutdriver and 5 minutes and I had the new one in there... It is so quiet, and I always have plenty of ice now!!!

Thanks!!!

Crushed Ice Wheel began to fragment

  • Customer: Fred from Olathe KS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
This is a side-by-side refrigerator. The crushed ice wheel is part of the icemaker bin auger, and it began to fragment, popping pieces of plastic into the ice dispenser and on into our drinks. The manuf. manual had nothing about parts in it, so GREAT thanks to Partselect for their website!!! Now, to dismantle the bin and auger is simple on this design: remove the bin from the freezer and allow it to defrost and dry; there are two small phillips-head screws on the front underside of the bin, holding the front panel in place - remove these screws and pop the front cover off; you'll then see two small phillips-head screws holding the auger-cap in place - remove these and pull the auger cap out, along with the auger; using a small pliers, remove the nut from the auger at the auger-cap, then slide the auger-cap off; at this point you just start removing washers, blades, etc, from the auger - MAKING SURE YOU KEEP THEM IN ORDER - until you reach the crushed ice wheel; separate the wheel from its metal brace, slide the wheel off and replace it; gradually replace all the other parts in order, cleaning them as you go, and simply put everything back together. It helps to keep the exploded parts diagram at hand - available on the Partselect website. It was a snap. The ordering process was simply and the part was delivered to my door on the second day after ordering.

Bottom freezer door hinge broke

  • Customer: Michael from Blue Springs MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the plastic cover from the top hinge and loosened the screws. The magnet seal kept the door in place so I removed the top hinge and tried to lift the door off the bottom hinge but the water line wouldn't let it go. Since I don't use the water feature, I just cut the water line and lifted the door off. That's when I discovered the hinge pin was actually broken off, not just the cam. I went ahead and replaced the cam kit and put it temporarily back together, got right back on line and ordered the bottom hinge. The service was again very fast and in a couple of days I received the bottom hinge, repeated the whole process again and this time replaced the bottom hinge assembly, put some petrolium jelly on the cam kit and now it works smooth and perfect.

Ice Maker broke at the begining of summer !!!!!!

  • Customer: Darrell from Pepperell MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
The new Ice Maker Assembly arived in less than 24 hours. I was amazed that it came so fast.

I had already removed the old ice maker in order to get the modle number.

I just took two parts off of the old ice maker and quickly snapped them into place on the new ice maker. Then attached it to the refrigerator in less than 10 minutes. With in a few hours I had ice again !!!!!

I would definatly use partselect.com again.

needed to replace filter

  • Customer: Marilynn from Holland MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Turned old one until it snapped out. Replaced it with a turn.

replace plastic wheels on refridgerator

  • Customer: robert from oak forest IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 16 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
I used board levers to do one side at a time.Kinda tricky, but you can hoist up fridge high enough to replace wheels. take your time think it out and be safe . Make sure you use saftey boards to support load to protect yourself==good luck A small mirror may help to see how the rollers alien in the supports.

ice maker did not make ice

  • Customer: DAVID from TINLEY PARK IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 17 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting power in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.

Refrigerator wouldn't get cold enough.

  • Customer: Ty from Wentzville MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Freezer would get cold at bottom and some of the refrigerator. Took of freezer back panel and located freezer fan. Took a meter and saw power was getting to it, but not working. Removed fan and replaced with new on, working like a charm. Cold air was not circulating enough throughout the unit because fan was not working. It was not the thermostat or adapter control.

Icemaker leaked water into ice bin causing a glob of ice

  • Customer: Kevin from Tyler TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Philips head screwdriver and ten minutes was all it took! I removed the two screws that hold the icemaker assembly in place, then pulled it out a little and disconnected the electrical plug freeing the icemaker assembly. Then I snapped the external parts off my old icemaker assembly and snapped them on the new icemaker assembly. Installing the new icemaker assembly was just as fast and easy. I snapped the electrical plug into the new icemaker assembly, then screwed in the two screws. It was making ice shortly thereafter. Glob free ice! I'm glad I didn't call a repairman. I probably saved a hundred bucks. A ten year old could accomplish this simple and easy task. No wonder the Maytag repairman has time on his hands.

Steady water leak.

  • Customer: Ben from Plainwell MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
It's good to note, first, that the dual water valve on Amana fridges are notorious for cracking and leaking, either due to the fridge being left in the cold (the water inside the valve freezes and expands, cracking the water valve) or from issues related to shipping. Read the reviews, here - it's a common issue, but easy and cheap to fix yourself. Here's my steps. I first turned off the water source to fridge by closing the correct valve. Next, I unplugged the fridge from electrical and from the water source line. When looking at the back of the fridge, I unscrewed the bottom left cover plate from the fridge body. After unscrewing and removing the plate, I made sure to note which lines came from which areas of the fridge and where the lines ended up at the dual water valve, and how they were routed through the plate and into the valve. The way this fridge is setup, the water source line screws into a main line that heads to the top of the fridge where the water filter is (like a "line in"). There's another line that heads back down to the bottom of the fridge (line out). The "line out" inserts into the outside plug of the dual water valve. The two lines coming out of the dual water valve are different sizes. Make sure to note which line goes to the icemaker and which line goes to the water dispenser inside the fridge. Once I knew which lines needed to go where, I grabbed my empty bucket, pulled the water lines out of the dual water valve with some pliers, and emptied the water into the bucket. After cleaning up any water splatter with my dry towels, I unscrewed the dual water valve from the plate. Once the old dual water valve was removed, I replaced it with the new valve and screwed it back into the plate. I cut off just a bit of the water line ends that were damaged due to pulling with the pliers, and then inserted them back into the correct spots on the dual water valve. I screwed the plate back into the fridge, reconnected the water source line (make sure to use some kind of water sealer tape or putty), plugged the fridge back into the electrical socket, turned the water source valve back on, and waited for leaks. No leaks! Once I was convinced there weren't any leaks, I had to bleed the water lines for about 20-30 minutes (it takes FOREVER...) by putting my bucket under the water dispenser inside the fridge and holding the water button for what seemed like an eternity - until the water was streaming steadily out of the dispenser. Voila! Good as new! Keep in mind that I didn't go through ALL the minute parts of each step - that would take too long. I'm believing that you'll be perceptive enough to catch the small things like looking at how the lines are routed into the dual water valve and where things are screwed into. Use your BRAIN, and you'll be fine. :-)
All Instructions for the LSD2615HEZ
31-45 of 697