Models > LGA30AW > Instructions

LGA30AW (PLGA30AW) Amana Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for LGA30AW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the LGA30AW
31-45 of 606
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The dryer would start to heat then the heat would stop

  • Customer: Theodore from Riverside CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 20 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I changed out the cycling thermostat and the high limit thermostat. Mainly because that was what my research indicated was the problem. I then found some more information online that indicated the gas solenoid valves were bad. I ordered them from you and replaced them. The problem was fixed.

In order to replace the valves you need to remove the top panel. Two screws at the top of the front door assembly hold it on. Remove the screws, lift up on the front panel door assembly and move it to the side. The drum will rest in place. In the lower left corner, under the drum, you will see the solenoids. Two screws attach a plate that holds down the solenoids. Take the hold down plate off, disconnect the control wires attached to the solenoids and lift out the solenoid/control valves. To assemble everything, work backwards to the start. Good Luck

Would not heat sometimes

  • Customer: Chris from Laguna Niguel CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled the big front panel by removing two screws near bottom of front and pulling out at bottom until the top pops loose. Vacuumed out all of the dust and checked for loose connections. Ran dryer - igniter would light, but no gas. Checked the two solenoids with a VOM. the one with the two leads would intermittently read Infinity (open). Super simple repair. Remove two screws on solenoid bracket on top of the gas valve, Replace solenoid and plug it back in with the easy push-on connector. NO PROBLEM - all fixed.

Dryer would not heat up.

  • Customer: Roger from Bonners Ferry ID
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the dryer,removed the two small screws on the front of the dryer and pulled the bottom forward. The two wires connected to the door do not have to be removed. With an electrical tester using the Ohm setting I tested the Radiant sensor and the Gas Valve coils. The two terminal coil was DOA. The dryer can be operated with the front open as long as the door wires are connected. Symptons: The igniter would heat up and not release gas. My repair was successfull due to this awesome website and the super fast shipping service. AAAA++++

Dryer would dry for 5-10 minuets then no heat

  • Customer: Richard from Jerome MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
I tested the dryer coils and found that they were getting a voltage but would not open the gas valve. Coils were not bad but weak. After they warmed up they would not open the gas valve. It took 10 min to repace both coils and the heat sensor.

Dyer would not heat, flame would shut off within 10 seconds

  • Customer: Christy from Riley MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 16 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the panel, undid the plugs, detached the radiant sensor by undoing one screw and removed and replaced the part. Fairly simply.

dryer would get hot for a while, then quit heating

  • Customer: Sharon from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
After reading about other people with this same problem I took a chance that this would be what was wrong with my dryer.I took off the front cover of the dryer by removing two screws. I located the faulty coils and simply plugged in the 2 new coils Tah-dah Probably coud have been done without even removing the front panel, but since it was off I vacuumed out the lint ( actually my husband did all of the above, but I tell a better tale than he does and I diagnosed the problem and ordered theparts)

Original belt finally gave way.....(15yrs old)

  • Customer: Garrett from Racine WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Simply remove the front panel screws(2) at the bottom of the dryer. Pull bottom of panel outward until it swings free of the top(taking care not to pull the wires out). Rotate out of the way and remove the two left side screws holding the drum plate and snake the belt around the flange. Reinstall those screws and remove the same ones on the right side. Snake the belt behind that flange and reinstall screws. Then all you have to do is run the belt around the motor sheave and the idler pully and your done. Reinstall the front panel.

dryer would not continuously heat, and took several cycles to dry clothes. The flame would ignite and heat the dryer at first, but then would ignite and go out quickly for the rest of the cycle. I tried the thermostats first with no luck.

  • Customer: Ryan from Livonia MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I first ordered the coils from a different web site and they sent the wrong ones. The job would have been much eaiser if i had just returned and ordered from here. Instead i cut wires and tried the others but since they were worng, it did not work. I didn't label the wires so it was a puzzle to put it back together. Once i had the wires connected properly it was a simple fix. You just open the top and take the front pannel off, remove the drum and it is right there at the bottom. Two screws take the cover off of the coils and they slide off the gas valve. Slide the new ones on and replace the cover. Put the front pannel back on, close the top and its good to go. I first tried the highlimit thermostat, and termostat with no luck. The flame would light when it was cold, but once warmed up, the flame would ignite and immediatly go out. The coils did the trick.

Dryer not heat up

  • Customer: bill from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled the front panel off and cleaned out all the lint out that had gotten past the lint screen. Pulled off the back panel for same. Removed lint roughly the size of an adult badger. Did not solve problem. Could see that the heating element was glowing red but gas was not igniting, very tempted to put out my cigarette. Between the assembly gas valves impotent clicking and the free trouble shooting info off the net... I guessed it was the gas valve assembly. Got the part from Part Select and replaced it. (part arrived much quicker than I thought it would too) Dryer now works and while I didn't need the thermostat, it was cheap enough that I will just keep it as it is the next likely part to take a hike.

the door on the unit wouldn't stay closed

  • Customer: john c. from north beach MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
removed the dryer female part that was broken with needle nose pliers and inserted the new one, on the door i removed one phillips screw and r/r the male piece with the new one and re-inserted the screw. that was all, very easy repair

Time clock not moving .Not enough heat

  • Customer: PHILIP from LONG ISLAND CITY NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
Opened front panel .Tested both coils on gas valve.
Found no continuity on one of the coils. Replaced coil,
dryer works like new.

Dryer drum stopped spinning

  • Customer: Leif from Brighton CO
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Dryer drum stopped but all other elements seemed functional; couldn't afford new dryer. Unplugged appliance & moved it to my garage (more room to move about). Undid base plate w/tools and found belt slack - identified broken idler pully wheel as part to fix. Went online & found part-select, located part & was way happy: $7.00 part + $7.00 shipping; got part 3 days later. Removed broken pully wheel (take off lock-washer, put wheel on, reinstall lock washer). Cleaned out venting elements (huge lint-ball & some sand in blower intake area). Re-attahced base. Back on-line to see "replace dryer belt" instruction sequence; opened lid of machine (while verticle) and positioned belt properly. Located access port (sealed) at base, knocked out the circular metal plate so I could reach in & thread the dryer belt back around motor & idler pulley wheel. Did test spin (manually) to make sure belt properly threaded, in place. Move appliance back to proper location, plugged in & hooked up venting to outside; ran test & SUCCESS!!!! It even seemed to dry better because of the now cleaned venting area. Labor cost = $0, Part cost < $15.00, Time (actual work) bit over 3 hours total.

Drum Not spinning

  • Customer: Dann from Claremont CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First, I unplugged the dryer. Then I used a flat screw driver to pop the top open. I removed 2 bolts from the front cover and removed the front door cover. I also took pictures of the electrical connector on the door so I would remember how the wires went back on. Then I removed 4 bolts from the front drum guide and lint screen holder. This allowed me to remove the drum & old belt. While the drum was out, I pried an access panel open on the side of the dryer. I then glued the new back felt piece in place. I put the new belt around the drum and re installed it. I re-installed the front guide and front cover re-connecting the door electrical switch. With the access panel open, I attached the belt to the motor. I then plugged it back in and turned it on to verify operation pryor to snapping the top cover back in place. Very easy repair.

Screeching sound coming from back of the dryer.

  • Customer: Brian from Yucaipa CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
First removed the bottom access panel, then the then pried the top lid open. Then, I could get to the four screws holding the front of the drum in place. Once that was removed, reached underneath drum and disconnected belt from tensioner pulley and motor. Removed the drum and discovered the problem. One of the two drum rollers had completely disintergrated from the shaft, actually "melting" off of its roller shaft. Removed both of the rollers and shafts by putting a flathead screwdriver on the slot of the shaft, and at the same time holding the locknut behind the bracket with a box wrench. I replaced both shafts and rollers and reused the same washers and snaprings. I used a screwdriver and a vice to remove the snap rings off of the old shafts. The best bet is to use a pair of snap ring pliers, which I didn't have. I used some white silicone grease to lube the new rollers up, reinstalled them and replaced the belt. You MUST route the belt around the drum before you install, then connect the belt to the motor underneath and wrap it around the tensioner. While I had everything opened up, I shop-vac"d the inside of my dryer(filthy). I did this before putting anything back together. Also, when re-installing the front dryer panel, make sure the motor inlet and the lint outlet tube form an airtight seal. All in all, this was a fairly strightforward job. The dryer now works great and is as quiet as a mouse.

Replaced two parts in the gas heater assembly

  • Customer: L R from Carmel NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the 2 screw that secure it at the bottom and pulling upward to disconnect the cover at the top. I then removed the two screws that hold the metal cover that secures the 2 elements in place. I disconnected the wire plugs from the 2 elements, removed the 2 elements and replaced them with the new parts making sure to place them in the same positions as before. I then replaced the housing cover and tightened the screws. Then I replaced the front cover of the dryer.
All Instructions for the LGA30AW
31-45 of 606