LG8209W2 (PLG8209W2) Amana Dryer - Instructions

Took out two front Panel screws and removed the panel. Removed Gas solenoid coil holding bracket by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnected the coil leads. and removed the coils. Connected the new coils to the leads and set in place. Replaced the holding bracket and the two screws. Replaced the front cover and the two front cover screws. Piece of Cake!

Removed the two sheet metall screws on the front foot panel, removed the four screws holding the door assembly, wrote down the wiring placement for the front door, removed the blower bulkhead assembly by removing one screw in the bottom of the dryer. Removed two screws and propped the dryer top panel up at a 45 degree angle to gain additional clearance. Removed the drum and belt from the front and back seals by applying simple outward pressure. Removed the screw in the bottom of the motor assembly allowing me to reposition the assembly for easy access. Removed bolt holding old Idler arm assembly. Assembled new Idler pulley referring to old assembly. Reversed the process to complete the repair. Note: I found it easier to simply hang the dryer belt over the dryer drum when replacing the drum in the dryer. First you need to place and align the drum then route the belt back to the moter pulley and then over the idler pulley. if you try to put the belt over the motor and then align the drum, it is difficult to keep the belt on the pulley. It might help to draw a diagram of the belt route or obtain the belt route diagram from the website for reference. Very easy job.

I removed the two screws holding the access panel, and removed the access panel. Then removed the lower air duct. I then checked the burner, The solenoid was not opeing the valve for the gas. I order the coils, in two day I had the coils and installed them. The dryer is working great.

After replaceing several parts including the thermostats the last part I replaced the coils were the defective part. I originally metered out the themostats and they appeared to be okay but since this was my first time I thought I might have been mistaken. It turns out the last part I thought it could be was the part that was defective. I will say that it is very simple to replace any of the parts involved. The hardest part was trying to open the dryer itself. But after having to do it 3 times, I'm now a pro. I also replaced the drum belt and since I had it open I also replaced the belf idler with a newer modified idler rolller.

Putting the belt back on is easy, but it helps to view the video or a picture to understand how the belt goes around it.

Switch can be removed from outside of dryer and your video described the repair as having to work from inside dryer. But since wires were still attached to old switch, it could be popped out and wires switched. Since there were three wires on new switch to allow it to turn on and off a circuit, it was useful to check the resistance of the switch compressed or released to be certain I was attaching the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch. But that all required only a couple of minutes. Thank you.

Unscrewed 4 screws,pulled off front of machine.Unscrewed 2 screws holding coils on,unplugged coils,installed new coils,plugged in coils,reinstalled 2 screws for hold down brace.Reinstalled front cover,plugged dryer into outlet(remember to unplugged dryer before working on it).started up,instant heat,works great.thanks Partselect for helping me out!!!

Remove front pannel
remove wires to light and switch
remove drum panel
disconnect motor wiring
unscrew motor mount
replace idlerlever replace belt reassemble all parts

Checked four thermocouples all showed continuity with my multimeter so they were all good. I'd read that the coils commonly went out and that these were the symptoms. Hey, it's very simple in there. Not much else could be wrong. I had a Maytag repairman come out. At first he said the problem was a blocked vent. I knew he was wrong. Then he said one of the thermocouples went out. It was $80 for him to come out. It turned out that his second diagnosis was wrong too. To repair the dryer by Maytag would have cost me $240. I gave him $80 and bought the coils for $37. They are EXTREMELY easy to replace: two screws held a bracket that held two coils. With the bracket off, I took off the old coils and slid on the new ones.

Getting to any of the parts in the Maytag dryer is easy. Tip the dryer back and slide a 4 x 4 block under the front edge. You remove the whole front panel after you remove two screws at the bottom corners of the front panel. You need to tip the dryer back to get a screwdriver on the screws. Swing the front panel up to release the top of the door panel from the top. Watch the short wires to the door switch. Unhook the door switch wires and move the front panel out of the way. The timer on the top is accessed by re-moving two screws along the top edge. There are four screws. Remove them all and tip the top of the front panel forward. You then see that two screws hold the panel and the other two screws just hold the trim.

The dryer started normal. The drum motor run when the start button was operated. The fluff cycle operated normal to indicate the timer motor was OK. On the dry cycles, the igniter heated up. The gas came on. The dryer run for some period of time and then the flame went off. The thought was that the low temp cycle thermostat sensed the dryer was hot and thus switched over to time the cycle to its end. However, the low temp cycle thermostat tested good with a meter when the sensor was removed from the dryer and heated with a light bulb. Burnt contacts in the sensor were a possible problem. I also though the radiant sensor may be bad and not recycling after it got hot. After time, the igniter would cycle on but the gas flame would not come on. I thought the radiant heater might not be tripping the secondary coil on the gas valve. The gas valve coils tested good. I was checking them cold after the dryer had cooled down. I ordered a number of parts.

I got lucky and did a test on the coils while the dryer was still hot. One of the coils in the dual booster holding coil was going open when hot. When cold it had enough continuity to let the gas valve cycle on once. After the coil got warm it went open and shut the gas valve off. When the coil did cool off, it again had continuity. I was about ready to trash the dryer when I finely found the problem. I am happy I persisted and worked the problem through to a solution. I purchased several extra sensors but saved money in the long-run. I rate this problem at the high end of complexity for the do-it your self home owner to solve. The problem was an easy fix once the real problem was found. Only 4 screws and 3 push on wire connectors (two were on the front panel for the door switch).

1. Disconnect power and hose. Use a putty knife to release top of dryer. Two restraints couple inches in from each side on front. Raise top and do not remove. Block it up in vertical so it doesn't fly down to back.
2. Disconnect five wires at front. Use magic marker to mark re-installation instructions on underside of top.
2. Remove metal screws (2) that hold front to frame. Remove front.
3. Pull dryer forward and put cardboard box, or some such thing under back to support when laying dryer down.
4. Remove frame (4 screws) that supports filter assy and front of drum.
5. Remove belt. Mark assy. sequence on underside of top.
6. Remove drum.
7. Stand dryer back to upright position.
8. Disconnect spring from idler lever. Drop light may help here. Note position of lever for re-install of new.
9. Unscrew bolt that holds idler lever. Nut is on back of bracket. Must re-install this way as bolt has pivot surface for lever on front side.
10. Install new lever and reconnect spring.
11. Lay dryer back on box.
12. Put drum back in place. Insure it seats well all around the felt gasket. Any misalignment here and it will not rotate smoothly.
13. Put belt around drum using small pieces of tape to hold it into position around drum, and them depress the idler lever and install belt around motor pulley. Rotate drum to insure it rotates smoothly. Remove tape.
14. Re-install filter bracket and insure drum seats nicely in felt gasket. Again, rotate to insure smooth operation.
15. Pull dryer back to standing position and reinstall the front, and re-connect the wires.
16. Lower top and push down to reconnect locking devices.
17. Plug in dryer and turn on to see if all is well.
18. Re-install hose and start drying all those clothes.

I watched your videos - they're great! The strike was installed in less than a minute and voila - the dryer was as good as new!

I suspected a faulty igniter and disconnected the cable to the igniter and measured the resistance of the igniter and found it to be 70 ohms then I checked the voltage at the same cable towards the power source and found it to be 25 volts ac which should be 120 volts ac. Next I checked the radiant flame sensor and found it to be open (it should be a closed circuit when cold). I removed the flame sensor (with the power off) using a small box wrench and found a broken lead. Replacing the flame sensor solved the problem.

Open bottom panel and observed back left drum roller wheel wobbling and obviously making the loud rumbling banging sound. Search goggle for Amana model part -- found partsellect.com, and read the list of other DIYs:

Take off the lower and upper front panels (two screws
each);

Remove the front drum glide holder (four screws. Careful
here because of the two wires to be removed for
door open off switch;

Pulling drum forward only enough so the bad roller wheel
would come off shaft after removing shaft snap ring
keeper;

Grease new roller hole and old shaft then place the
new wheel roller on shaft;

Replace all items back after cleaning lent off.

Note: Snap ring was a bit tricky (need snap ring pliers)--make sure it is clipped back all the way on the shaft after new wheel is installed. Also, I thought it was a good idea to put something underneath the dryer drum to support it while it was slightly pulled out -- a block of wood, etc. I found a spot remover plastic bottle that wedged up to support the dryer drum enough to take pressure off the belt during wheel replacement.

Removed top of dryer and front panel. Keeping the front door closed I was able to start the unit and observe if the gas was igniting to heat the unit.
Found that no flame was present.
Examined the ignitor (found the locatino after utilizine this website parts diagram) and noticed it was cracked.
Ordered the new part and it arrived two days later. Simple installation and ta daaa....ignitor works, hot dryer again.
*Only reason it took over half an hour was because I cleaned out all the internal vents while the unit was opened.
Basic mechanical abilities required here but remember to unplug the unit while working on it!

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!