LE2902 (P7804817W W) Amana Dryer - Instructions

I just followed the video instructions and really they were not as good as some of the customer descriptions which were far more detailed. It was like an experienced repairman telling another experienced repairman how he has been doing this repair for 20 years. The customers get into the kind of detail that is very helpful. More important parts select never tells you to read the blogs first before ordering your parts. $100 later I bought a new GE dryer which I would have done 10 days ago had I known Maytag has a repetitive problem with the high limit thermal fuse which no one has a cure for. So I did a whole bunch of repairs replacing parts on a dryer which needed to be replaced.

The round exhaust duct in the back my dryer can be removed simply by pulling straight out. This gives full access to the belt tension wheel. Slip belt off the wheel, remove snap ring with snap ring pliers, remove washer and wheel. Install new wheel, attach belt, and reinstall duct by looking right down the middle to line up properly. Dryer sounds like new again. 10 minute job.

After checking out a video showing how to change the belt I decided to tackle the job. First I pried up the top, there are two plastic tabs in the front corners that hold the top down to the front panel. The top swings upward and will stay in position while you continue to work. Using a 3/8 socket, I removed 4 bolts that hold the front panel onto the frame. Be sure to unhitched the wiring to the door switch and those to the control panel and then the front will come out by lifting it off the tabs in the lower corners. Put the front panel aside and slide the drum forward and out of the dryer frame. Remove the old belt noting how it ms oriented around the tensioner and motor pulley. Now everything should be exposed and you should take the time and clean the inside if I were you. Our dryer was filled with lint and dust but after a good vacuuming and wiping down with a damp sponge, it looked like new again. Put the new belt around the drum noting where it had sat before. There is a grove in the drum but our belt did not go inside their but on the drum itself. Slide the drum back in place and from underneath put the belt on the pulley and under the tensioner. Replace the front panel, rehitch the wires and put the top down and your done. My wife helped clean the inside which took longer than replacing the belt. Total time about an hour or so cleaning time included.

I watched the repair video and followed the instruction given to replace the belt. The instructions were easy to follow and to the point. The one thing that was not covered was to vacuum the interior prior to closing the dryer up.

. I had replaced the idler pulley a number of years ago so I assumed that the noise was now due to either the sliders at the front of the drum or bad rollers at the back.. I removed power by turning off the breaker that serviced the dryer. After removing the lower front panel via the two sheet metal screws at the bottom I then removed the door panel. The safety switch behind the door had to be removed by depressing the sides of the switch after disconnecting the two push on connectors. One will discover that reconnecting the smaller of the two contacts to the unused contact on the switch will allow one to run the dryer with the door off or open. This can be useful to test operation after the repair is complete before reassembling the door and lower panels. I then removed the large panel that secures the front of the drum. The drum is then removed after releasing tension on the drive belt. All rotating parts and sliders could then be checked. Upon disassembly I found that the rollers and sliders appeared ok and decided to replace the idler pulley as a last attempt to fix the problem. This is best done by removing the tension arm and tensioning spring. the pulley is then more easily removed from the arm using snap ring pliers. After replacing the pulley and thrust washer with new parts I reassembled everything. I found it helpful to pretension the arm using a zip tie wrap in that the belt can be more easily reinstalled on the drum and pulley. When the drum and belt is properly in place and belt threaded, one can reach in with a pair of cutters and snip the tie wrap to re tension the system. The dryer has been running normally again for a week after affecting this repair.

Followed video on PartsSelect website, they made it real easy.

Well tried to find this simple part around Columbus and even maytag website no luck.Parts select had it to go and arrived earlier than expected.Fixed it less than 5 minutes works great.taken longer to put the light bulb back in,Really like the accuracy and quick response from parts select.If I had called a service tech probably would have cost $50.00 or more for a part that cost a little over $3.00 and saved this site in case I need to order other parts.Thank you

one screwdriver, one new door latch, five minutes! Pried out the female part of the door latch, tapped in the new one and started the dryer. Never had an easier repair. Usually there is some hitch along the way you learn about the hard way, but not this time. TOO EASY!!

Removed the front panel of the dryer and drum to replace the rollers. You will need a snap ring pliers to remove the locking snap ring holding the rollers, replaced rollers, installed new drum belt and replaced the front dyer panel.
Tested the dryer no more noise.

Thanks

My 11 year old daughter broke the door clasp to the dryer by repeatedly slamming it trying to get it to close. I told her to go down stairs write down the make model and serial number and come back up and find a place to buy it online. I left with instructions not to use the computer for anything else until the part was found. Less then 15 minutes later I came back because I heard giggling. She was chatting but had found an exploded view of the door and the part. She was very pleased with herself! We bought it and it arrived a few days later. I saw the empty box. She had opened it and taken it down and installed it herself. A good lesson, for her and me

popped out the old, broken female latch, popped in the new one in less than 30 seconds. We had been leaning stool against the dryer door for 5 years. Now it works exactly like it is supposed to.

I ordered the part. ( I should have ordered just in case it happens again.) When it got here it took less than a minute to snap it in.

remove the housing under the dryer door. take out the lint trap. I took the whole bottom off the dryer to easily get to the tensioner pully. I then loosened the tub and slid off the old belt and replaced it.

The old door catch broke and fell into the unit. Ordered the new part which arrived fast and snapped it into place. Perfect fit and the door now closes/latches correctly - like new again. Would recommend your web site to all do-it-yourselfers. Loved browsing your site, especially seeing all of the schematics and parts list for my unit.

This would be an easy job, if I were to do it again.

I needed to download a manual only to get ACCESS to the machine. Removing the outside lag bolts did NOT provide access.

They had hidden clips that were ENTIRELY invisible from the outside. I believe this was done deliberately, to prevent those who don't know the specifics about this machine from gaining access.

It's an easy job, once you know the idiosyncracies of the construction of the machine. It's a major pain in the ass if you don't, even if you are used to replacing belts in other dryers.

Having done it once, the next time I could do it in under 20% of the time it took me the first time.