Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Blower fan came loose and broke
No manual on this so had to remove about 12 screws to figger out disassembly,after locating the right ones[front]the job was easy.Remove front plate,remove drum bearing,remove blower front cover,remove snap ring,remove broken fan,clean fan shaft,slide new fan onto shaft[there is a flat in the bore of new fan]instal fan retainer on stub of fan,reinstal snap ring,reinstal the rest of the parts,test drive system[all sat]The part was exactly as ordered,thanks,Jim Thompson
First, I unplugged the dyer and then I removed all of the screws for the panel that covers the rear of the dryer. This exposed the cycling thermostat's location. I then removed the wires, one at a time so I would be able to put them back on in the same place. Then I removed the one screw using a nut driver and then put the new cycling thermostat in place. It was pretty easy.
After replacing the cycling thermostat failed to fix the problem, I jumped the Dampness sensor, overtemp sensor and flame sensor - no change, flame went out after 15 to 30 seconds. Ordered the replacement coils for the gas control and reconnected all sensors: solved!
I opened the back acess panel and started the dryer. Looking at the motor and idler pulleys it was obvious by the frequency of the squealing noise that it was coming from the idler pulley. I pulled the retainer clip and tension spring from the idler pulley and removed it. I applied some grease to the shaft and reinstalled the idler pulley. The squeal was gone confirming that the pulley bushing was dry. I ordered the new idler pulley and when it arrived the next day I cleaned the grease off of the shaft and installed the new idler pulley. Problem solved.
Heater ran constantly, except in air fluff cycle, thus operating extremely hot
Removed the frong cover and and internal sheild, removed and replaced thermostatic, wiring as original. I had searched several other sites first for thee part, but none of them seemed accurate. Your photo matched the old exactly, giving me the confidence I wanted before ordering.
1. Removed two screws from front panel. 2. Removed panel. 3. Removed four bolts off tumbler face. 4. Removed face. 5. Removed drum and belt. 6. Vacuumed. 7. Replaced idler spring assembly. 8. Replaced drum. 9. Replaced belt. 10. Rotated drum to make sure belt was properly seated. 11. Replaced tumbler face. 12. Replaced front panel.
The repair was very simple.I removed the door and the front cover.Right in front of the blower housing sat the temperature control thermistor.All that was needed to do the swap was a nut driver.Everything I read said the high limit thermostat may of been bad but it was fine.Ordering the parts was easy and fast all I needed was the model number and all the charts and numbers were easy to find.Thank you Parts select..
Heating coil not staying on,water collecting in exhaust
Front panel came off with two philips head screws. First thermostat was behind a 2 screw sheet metal barrier. Second was far right and slightly cramped, but a right angle rachet drive and phillips head bit did the trick. The wire colors were an exact match to the OEM thermostats. So far the dryer is running shorter, and there is almost no water in the vent tube or the face of the dryer door opening. A cheap fix for an old reliable dryer. Whle you're in the guts, always vacuum out all the lint and dust on all parts. Stupid to leave it dirty and run less efficient.
drum support roller had come apst from bearing and was making a squealing noise when dryer was running
first i removed the screws holding back cover. Then I remeved nut from tumbler roller shaft. Then I slid shaft from roller .I removed roller then replaced with new one. Installed new shaft then replaced back cover. recieved parts from parts direct very promptly & they were the right parts the first time thanks very much
