LAT8024AAE Maytag Washer - Instructions

The washing machine would only fill with cold water. This could be a problem with the controls, the wiring or the valve where the external hoses connect. Various tests, which only those with the proper skills & equipment should perform, revealed that the water valve hot side was not opening. UNPLUG the washing machine before doing any work and especially before opening any access panels. NOTE: Label all fasteners & other connections you remove so you know where they should go back. WITH the Washing Machine UNPLUGGED from the wall outlet, I unscrewed the external hot & cold hoses (make sure the water is turned off first!). I unscrewed the panel that holds the valve in a recess in the back of the machine. On this machine, the panel pulls out of the back with the valve attached to it. So I pulled the panel/valve assembly out of the recess and disconnected its electrical connectors (double-check the washing machine is unplugged before doing this). I also disconnected the internal hose that leads from the valve. Finally, I detached the valve from the panel. Installation is the reverse of removal, although it is a good idea to use a new spring clip or hose clamp, whichever you have, to attach the internal hose to your new valve. Once the valve assembly is properly installed, connect your external hoses, double-checking for hot & cold sides carefully, turn the water on and check for leaks. When all that is ok, plug the washer in and test it.

Pryed the front cover off and set it aside. I pulled the top cover off by removing the 1/2" hex screws under the front cover and hinged it back. Removed the agitator set screw with a 1/4" hex nut driver and pulled out the agitator assembly. Had to remove the nut that holds the hub assembly in by using a hammer and punch. There is not much room in the tub so be careful you don't hit the sides. It goes off by turning it clockwise. Then the splash guard comes off and then the inner tub with the top gasket and ring can be lifted out of the washer. The tapered cork covered hub was exposed and it also had to be removed with a hammer and punch clockwise after removing the torx set screw on the side of the hub. The rubber seal was now able to be removed under the hub and on top of the bearing on the outer tub. I had to clean all the accumulated scale off seal and bearing surfaces before putting new parts in (rubber seal, hub assembly, and new locking nut). Everything went back easily. Should be good for another 5-10 years...

I shut off the water feeds and unplugged the washing machine.

I removed the two screws on the bottom panel and lifted it off.

I then lifted the bottom corners of the front plate, pulling out and raising it at about a 45 degree angle, releasing the spring clips which held the top of the front plate to the top of the washing machine and set it aside.

I then located and removed the screws located underneath the top, one in each, of the undersides, of the front corners.

I used duct tape to tape the washing machine lid to the top so that it would not flop open and get damaged as I lifted the top on it's hinges.

I saw, at this point that I needed to open the control panel.

I set the top back down.

On top of the control panel cabinet there are four screws, two on each side. I removed the inner screw from each side and lifted out the control panel and set it down with all it's wires intact.

You will see a hex head screw that is holding the funnel of the water injector in place, I removed it with a nut driver and then reassembled the control panel so that nothing would get damaged as I, once again lifted the top and let it rest open on it's hinges.

I used a long needle nose pliers to squeeze open the hose clamp and loosen and remove the hose so that the complete water injector assembly was free and set it aside.

At this point, I connected the hose of the new unit to it's connector and set the clamp, lowered the top, re-opened the control panel and holding the water injector funnel in place by reaching through the lid I screwed it back into place. From there it was only reversing the steps to reassemble the cabinet.

I was concerned about reinstalling the front panel on it's spring clips but found it to be no problem. I held the front panel at the angle it was in when it popped loose, with the clips resting against the lip of the top and lowered the bottom into place, it just snapped back into place.

removed face of washer and replaced belts. The only problem I had was didn't own any torx security drivers.

The job went fast an well

The motor was easy to replace: unplug the wiring harness, slip off the belts, release the tension springs from the motor carriage with needle-nose pliers, and then unbolt the motor carriage with socket set and remove from the washer. Remove the pulley from the old motor with allen wrench and transfer the carriage to the new motor. Reverse operation for everything and you are back in business. The hardest part was the far back screw holding the carriage, a wobble extension helped.

Popped-off the trim disc in the center of the timer knob to expose the locking clip. Then used a small screwdriver to pop it off. Then carefully removed the knob (careful, there's a spring inside). With the knob removed, you now have access to the two bolts that hold the timer in place. Removed them. Removed the screws that fasten the control panel and flipped it down and forward. Disconnected the wiring harness from the timer. Then reinstalled the new timer in the reverse order of disassembly. Viola'!

First, I secured one lid hinge ball in its appropriate position between the lid and the washer. While keeping the first ball in place I placed the other lid hinge ball as close to its intended position as I could get it. Next, I pushed the lid and ball into its position.

Used the online trouble shooting info. Tested as was requested. Found the lid switch. Noticed the fuse was bad. Replaced the fuse and noticed only water was cominf in. Ordered new lid switch assembly. Came with 48 hrs! Replaced and washed clothes! Great service!

Unpluged the washer and removed the top cover. Removed the screws holding the switches and unplug the wires. The process was very easy and the washer worked like a new one.

I took out the two screws in the bottom front panel of the washer, and rotated the front panel from the bottom away from the machine until the top or the panel was released from the machine frame. I then tilted the washer back to get access to the bottom of the machine. The pump pulley had split in half, and the bottom half fell off the drive motor shaft. The only problem I had was breaking free the set screw that holds the pulley to the drive motor shaft. I used a long arm Allen wrench and an adjustable "Cresent" wrench to apply enough force to break the set screw loose. Iclamped the upper transmission belts tightly to keep the motor shaft from turning while I loosened the set screw.

Replaced the 2 belts according to instructions received with the belts. Very easy repair

Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.

1. Unplug power to the washer.
2. Remove 2 screws from bottom front panel on either side. Panel then rotates out and unhooks at the top. Remove front panel
3. Remove bolts from underneath the top front on both sides using a socket.
4. Rotate the top upward to provide space to see and work.
5. From the back of the washer, remove 4 bolts using a socket around the drain tube at the upper left.
6. From the front, the siphon valve can be removed from the inside upper right.
7. From the front, unscrew the clamp holding the drain hose on the water pump housing at the bottom right front and remove the hose. Be prepared for water to drain from the hose. Remove hose and siphon valve together and discard.
8. Install new hose on new siphon valve and screw new clamp tight. Make sure the rubber ring is inserted properly on the new valve (See old valve for reference)
9. Holding the siphon valve in place, use a socket and re-attach the 4 bolts around the drain tube at the back of the washer.
10. From the front, insert the opposite end of the new hose to the water pump at the lower right front and screw the circle clamp tight. Note: Re-use existing clamp.
11. Rotate the top back down into normal position.
12. Plug the power back in and run a short cycle and watch for leaks.
13. If no leaks, re-attach bolts for the top with a socket.
14. Re-attach front panel with 2 screws. Done.

I was told that it might be a clog in the tube.. we check the tubes that wasn't it Then I Google it and was told it might be the drain pump. I was just glad that Part Select had what I need because my machine is over 20 years old. We change the pump and now I hope I get at least another 20 years out of my machine. I will always use part select to get my parts. Thanks