LAT7300AGX Maytag Washer - Instructions

1. Identify washer model and symptom
2. review page of suggested part; view installation video
3. order part with standard shipping
4. receive part next day and install just as the video showed

Entire job from going to PartSelect website to completion took less than 24 hours. Hardest part was moving the washing machine. Machine is nineteen years old and now works perfectly. Unmatched service.

I had taken the washer out and replaced both hoses, and the leak stopped for a load or two. I then replaced the water inlet valve, because I could see that the plastic threads were pretty bad. The repair is very simple on this model. There is no need to open the cabinet at all, the entire job is done on the back. I used a socket and the stubby driver for the mounting screws and switched to a screwdriver tip and opened the clamp on the hose leading to the air gap assembly. The entire operation took about five minutes. The repair worked for two or three loads.

The water leak came back, so after some searching I finally figured out how to open the cabinet, and that took longer than actually doing it. The front opens with two big screws located on the front about 4" above the floor, just in the corner of the indentation on the panel.

With the top tipped up (tape the lid!) out of the way, the leak proved to be coming out of the air gap assembly. There is an injector nozzle and a rubber sleeve that goes over it. They fit in the large black hose. I easily opened the hose clamp, removed the old parts, put in the new one. The rubber sleeve has a cover that goes over the edge of the plastic injection nozzle. You have to make sure it is entirely and smoothly inserted. Easy. Then insert it all the way to the shoulder of the end of the hose with that wide end facing into the hose and the other end open. Slip the open end through the bracket and into the other hose. Tighten all your clamps, and carefully pressure test. Do not touch any metal parts if there is water spewing. Just turn it off, pull the plug, and fix the problem. In my case, it worked perfectly, and I turned it off, replaced the front and the job was done.

Despite the great advice I got here, I ended up getting the nozzle parts in town. I had to go to an appliance parts outlet rather than a place like Home Depot, but it was quick and no shipping. Still, I would not have tried this without the great advice and fast service here.

I watched a sample repair on YouTube and read the instructions that came with the part. All went as planned/described.

First I remove the hot & cold water hoses using an adjustable wrench. I then unscrew the panel that holds the water inlet valve using a nut driver. I then carefully pull out the panel, moving the harness wires out of the way, so that I can loosen the clamp holding the inside rubber tube. I remove the old water inlet valve from the panel by removing the 2 screws and then put the new one in. I then reconnect the rubber tube and tighten the clamp. I then screw back the panel and reconnect the hot & cold water hoses. It took me about 20 mins to complete the job.

Removed old part, installed new part. tested machine. worked fine.

Solved theprobel m by noticiing the HOT water filled the tub and it began to run when it was full. Figured out it was the solenoid valve. Ordered a new one. Simple to install and then it ran just fiine.

The hot water side would fill quickly but the cold water filled very slowly. The seloniods and the valve is built all into one unit. I ordered and replace the part in no time at all. Now both hot and cold water fill quickly.

Removed three screws - Disconnected both inlet water hoses-Disconnected 4 electric clips-Removed internal hose connection from the same unit- Reverse order in assembly.

unplugged electricity from socket, turned water feed off at spigots, put plastic basin to catch water under place where hoses connect to washer, used pliers to turn disconnect hoses from washer and let them drain into basin. unfastened top screw on panel (only one) and tipped the old water inlet valve connections out over basin -- still spilled water onto floor, though. unfastened two screws holding old valve assembly to panel, set panel aside. loosened clamp screw on hose, moved hose off old valve -- a little water spilled out. held new assembly in similar position as moved wires one by one. used dry cloth to make sure electrical connections dry, then put hose back on, tightened clamp screw, fastened assembly to panel, fastened panel to washer, fastened hoses to valve, waited a half hour hoping any water on wires had dried, turned on water, washed clothes -- success!

Made sure I had the right part. Inlet Valve looked just like the one on the website. Unpluged washer. Removed screws and water hoses. Disconnected wires from old Inlet valve and reconnected to new Valve. Disconnected water line from Inlet valve to washer tub. Reconnected water lines. Ran a test cycle. Works great. Wife very happy. Therefore, so am I.

My husband did this repair. He disconnected the old part, laying them out in the order that he took them off. He put in the new part and hooked up the hoses and we had a working washer again. I ordered the part and a couple of days later it arrived on our door step. Thank you for your speedy delivery. We live in a parsonage and the washer & dryer that were in here stopped working, so we brought our Maytags (used) from our camp where the problem occurred because of winter freezing. Thanks to Maytag for making this repair so easy.

Did the same as others. Loosened the three screws diconnected the wires and put them on the new valve. Disconnected fill hose and connected to new valve. 10-15 minutes. Replaced panel and tested new part. perfect, My repair was a little longer, I vaccumed up all the dust bunnies I could find before moving washer back. Good for another 35 years, I hope. Thanks for the help and experiences.

Great service! Part arrived within two days; installation instructions very
clear; washer back in service after15 minute installation. Thanks!

Disconnected the hot/cold water hoses. Removed screw that holds water valve in place. Removed two screws that hold valve to metal plate. Disconnected wire terminals from old valve and installed on new valve on the same spades. Disconnected water discharge line by loosing screw that hold line on valve, reattach to new valve. Removed old valve from plate, installed new one with the two screws to plate, then put in place and put in screw that hold valve in back of washer. Connected hot/cold hoses and fired it up and noisy water eliminated. About 30 minutes and back in service which made the wife happy that her washer was quite again. Thanks!

Pushed machine out from wall; disconnected the supply hoses (after closing the valves at the wall); unplugged electrical cord; removed two wires from the solenoid connectors; removed two screws that secure valve assembly to backplane of machine. Installation of new assembly was the opposite procedure. We have private well, and silt was plugging the cold water side of valve. So, I also installed a large sediment filter behind the washer, so this will never happen again.