LA610 Washer - Instructions

First, be sure to take the washer apart properly! The first time I fixed my washer I took it apart the hard way to change the clutch, and believe me it took longer to put it back together!
This time I was replacing both the water inlet valve and the hose leading to the disperser.
First remove the two screws holding down the control panel. It then flips back and hangs out of the way behind the washer. Then remove the spring-clip holding the rear plate to the body of the washer, one on each side under the control panel.
Next you need to remove the screws holding the body down to the base at the rear of the machine.
I then tipped the body of the washer forward and let it rest on a bucket so I didn't have to take it completely off. Then it is easy to access the hose and the water inlet valve. Shut off the water and remove the supply hoses to the washer. Remove the two screws holding the water inlet valve to the rear of the washer using a nut driver. Next remove the wires to teh inlet valve, making sure to note which one is cold and hot, and which orientation they are. Mine was yellow on top and brown on bottom. Next remove the springs clamps holding the hose on. Replace the hose re-using the same clamps. Replace the water inlet valve reverse the process to re-assemble the washer. Tilt the body back on, put the screws in the base, clamp the back to the body, flip the contorl panel back over and insert the screws. Reattach the water supply lines and you are done!

The motor was easy to replace: unplug the wiring harness, slip off the belts, release the tension springs from the motor carriage with needle-nose pliers, and then unbolt the motor carriage with socket set and remove from the washer. Remove the pulley from the old motor with allen wrench and transfer the carriage to the new motor. Reverse operation for everything and you are back in business. The hardest part was the far back screw holding the carriage, a wobble extension helped.

First I disconnected the power and turned off the water supply. Then removed the front panel of the washer by removing the two phillips head screws from the lower left and right front of the machine. I then removed the four hex screws at the corners of the top of the machine using a socket set. The two screws in the front of the top come out through the inside and the two screws in the back come out through the access holes in the top. Next I disconnected the bleach/softener tube from the upper end to allow the lid to be raised. Then I swung the right hand side of the lid up fully and rested it on the left hand side support using the braces provided on the lid and resting the weight on the attached support string. The injector valve, inector nozzle and injector bracket are right on top on the left hand side. The bracket is taken out by removing one hex screw on the underside of the bracket. The valve and nozzle are removed by loosening the hex screw on the hose clamp, To replace, first assemble the rubber sleeve and plastic injector. The large end of the plastic injector should fit squarely into the slot of the rubber sleeve. To insert this assembly back into the molded end of the injector hose I used a small amout of laundry detergent to lubricate the large end of the rubber sleeve. This allowed the part to slide in without displacing the rubber sleeve from the plastic injector nozzle. Now, I replaced the associated parts (lid and front panel) and turned the water on and plugged the washer back in. No more leak. Thanks to PartSelect.com my repair was easy. I did not need to replace the injector sleeve bracket but purchased the new one in case I broke the old one during the repair.

Removed the two Phillips screws from the bottom of the front panel on the washer. I pulled the front panel, from the bottom, outward untill the two spring clips released that attach the front panel to the washer top/lid assembly. Removed the two 3/8" hex head bolts securing the washer top to the side panels, with a nut driver. These are located just inside the side panels in each upper corner. Tilted the washer top / lid assembly back in order to expose the injector hose and top of tub. With 1/4 " nut driver, I loosened and removed the hose clamp around the nozzle body and the injector hose. Installed the new hose on the nozzle body , re-tightened clamp. Inserted the grooved end of the injector hose into hole on top of tub. Ran washer fill to check for leaks. None found, reassembled washer in reverse of disassembly.

Unbalanced load was creating a knocking sound (as if the clothes load was unbalanced). Dismantled the washer to find that one brackets had rusted out. [FYI: 3 bracket at 120 degree apart (for the 360 degree circle)]. I found that the hole (on the bracket) where the spring holds was gone. Purchased parts. Replaced them (spring, bracket, screw). Reassembled washer then ran wash for a cycle. Successful fix.

Unplugged power cord and disconnected water lines; note which is hot/cold. Washer was then tipped on its front. Discharge hose was disconnected. Washer was then rolled over onto its back as this would put the pump on top for much easier removal.

Pried off two clips attaching pump on motor using a flathead screwdriver. The rear clip was done by touch. Unplugged wiring plug from motor. Using an adjustable wrench (socket set would have worked better), remove two screws holding 2nd set of clips attaching motor on transmission. Then pried off clips.

Removed old coupling from transmission shaft and motor shaft, plus middle 6 hole widget thingy.

Installed new parts on transmission shaft and motor shaft with fingers pointing towards each other. Using a small hammer, tapped the parts onto each shaft. Placed 6 hole widget thingy on the transmission part, and then rotated motor so motor part would fit in remaining three holes.

Replaced clips to hold motor on transmission and reinstalled screws holding clips.

IMPORTANT: Replace motor wire now. I forgot to do this and after the tub was filled with water, realized that, and since the pump was also disconnected, could not get the water out. Had to get wife to hold washer up while I crawled underneath to reattach motor wire. Learn from my mistake!

Attach pump onto motor and replace clips. Double check everything is back in place.

Roll washer onto front side. Attach discharge hose. Tip washer back upright. Reconnect water. Reposition discharge hose and plug washer into power.

First try it smelled like something plastic was burning, but I think that was the old part shavings getting ground away.

First, I secured one lid hinge ball in its appropriate position between the lid and the washer. While keeping the first ball in place I placed the other lid hinge ball as close to its intended position as I could get it. Next, I pushed the lid and ball into its position.

Remove the main bolts that hold the gearbox in place, pull the gearbox and shaft out. You will see the brake shoes and drum--the large spring is a struggle to replace. Getting it out was not hard. The biggest struggle I had was replacing the brake shoe spring after replacing the shoes. I ultimately compressed the spring in a vise, then used safety wired it, then placed it between the shoes, then cut the wire to relaease the spring.

After verifying that the supply wasn't the problem, I ordered the replacement inlet valve module.

1) shut off water to machine
2) removed the hose connections from the valve
3) unplugged the washer
4) removed the plate holding the module - 1 screw
5) removed the hose clamp from the valve module to the washer inlet
6) removed the two screws holding the valve module to the plate
7) removed the 2 wire connections to each of the two solenoids.
8) Reversed all of the steps above for the new valve module.
9) checked for leaks

1) Unplugged electrical cord
2) Removed hot/cold water hoses
3) Took drain hose from laundry room recepatcle
4) Moved washing machine to area where I could lay it down on its back (very important for easy fix)
5) Found (easy accessible in my case) water pump with an inlet and outlet water hose held on with spring clamps.
6) Removed each of the two clamps with pliers and each hose by twisting loose
7) Remove two metal clips holding pump to motor housing
8) Slide pump off shaft - removal is finished!
9) Reversed process for installation, making sure to gently align pump housing when the pump is aligned with the shaft
[probably took less than 15 minutes]

I took out the two screws in the bottom front panel of the washer, and rotated the front panel from the bottom away from the machine until the top or the panel was released from the machine frame. I then tilted the washer back to get access to the bottom of the machine. The pump pulley had split in half, and the bottom half fell off the drive motor shaft. The only problem I had was breaking free the set screw that holds the pulley to the drive motor shaft. I used a long arm Allen wrench and an adjustable "Cresent" wrench to apply enough force to break the set screw loose. Iclamped the upper transmission belts tightly to keep the motor shaft from turning while I loosened the set screw.

These Maytag people know how to build stuff. I was impressed with this valve. Built really smart. After a gazillion years (about 16 or so) the valve started making a funny groaning noise and the cold water flow was very slow. Took about 15-20 minutes to fill the tub.

the inlet valve is located on the back of the washer where the hoses are connected. In fact the hose connectors are part of the valve.

To replace this valve, start by unplugging and turning off the water spigots, unscrew the two hoses from the valve. (you need a towel here, but that'll be obvious soon enough.)

Unscrew the single screw at the top of the valve bracket (the bottom of the bracket is held in place without screws.) Remove the screw holding on the sheet metal and pull the bracket out as far as you can without stretching things. Write down what colors of wire are connected, then pull off the electrical connectors.

The valve outlet is a skinny (compared to the inlet hoses) rubber hose that has a clamp to hold it in place. The clamp needs to be loosened with a 3/16" nutdriver a plier would probably work, but may be hard to get in there. Now slide the clamp further up on the hose, dislodge the rubber hose off of the old valve. Now it's free.

Reverse the steps. Believe it or not, that is all. It works great and this washer probably has another 10 year left in it.

Clamp was already in multiple pieces so easy to get off.

Got clamp from partselect.com in 1 day which was great.

Removed two PH screws from front cover then pulled bottom of front cover outward and down to remove.

Caution for those doing this: take a piece of 220 or 240 grit paper and sand all the edges of the clamp. Trying to put it on without doing so will result in countless paper cuts in hands.

Before putting new clamp on be sure to use either some soap or silicon lube on the rubber V seal between upper and lover tub.

Also need to put some 1/4" to 3/8" spacers at three equally spaced places beneath the upper tub and the lower tub. If this isn't done the upper tub will drop down too far inside the lower tub and the inner lower tub, when it starts to spin, will rub on the underside of the upper tub = cause the main drive belt to smoke and tub to "freeze up"

Spacers I used were simply 3 pieces of multi strand sheathed electrical wire 3/8" so that I could bend them down at an angle and put them out once clamp was in place. Wire pieces need to be about 4-5" long.

Assemble one bolt in clamp and thread around tub in CCW direction.

Position one bolt of the clamp in right rear corner. this is important so that when tub goes out of balance, there's clearance for the clamp bolts and they don't contact the cabinet.

Make sure before threading clamp arount tub that the screw that will end up in the front left corner has a hex head on it so that you can apply some clamping "muscle" with a socket wrench.

I had trouble getting the front left screw inserted in the clamp (its only 2" long) so I used a 3" bolt to make the preliminary connection to pull the clamp semi tight. I planned ahead and got a light wire coat hanger to use as a "tie-tie" in the event that I had to remove the 3" slotted screw to revert back to the 2" hex head screw. Luckily when I removed the 3" screw I was able to quickly pop the 2" hex head back in and tighten completely.

Before putting front cover on, do one load with front cover off to make sure that upper and lower/inner tub don't rub each other.

If ok, turn power back off and put front cover back on.

Note: Would advised ordering the rubber V-seal if you are ordreing the clamp. If you buy the seal there are four bolts in the lid that let you lift the lid to work on the tub, clamp and seal MUCH more easily. Sticky part is getting water fill tube in top left rear disconnected so that new rubber v-seal can slide over tub.

Note also that in order to get to front left lid bolt that single bolt holding diaphram onto front left upright must be removed so as the let diaphram assembly drop away to access front left lid bolt. The two bolts in the rear can be accessed from the top very easily. Also need to disconnect the bleach fill tube in order to lift the lid (right side lifts up to vertical position)

Replaced the 2 belts according to instructions received with the belts. Very easy repair

I ordered the parts at a minimal cost compared to the repairman's quote, they arrived in 3 days. I used the laptop and put it right next to where I was working so that I could follow the directions step-by-step. The instructions were easy to follow and showed you right what to do so I never had any questions. My washer had a slightly different configuration but I figured it out. Replacing the parts was simple, take one off, put the other on. Putting the washer front back on was a little tricky, I had to have my daughter help me hold it in place while I wiggled it around to make sure it was just right before I screwed it back together. It was easier than I thought it would be. I told my husband I loved the internet, I would never have been able to do this job without the instructional video. Thanks PartsSelect!